“Check engine” error on Toyota Corolla – what to do?

Toyota Corolla Forum

Electrical component of Toyota Corolla. Electrical circuits, electrical problems, search for solutions. Vikchantai Messages: 1 Registered: April 28, 2015, 17:47 Car: Toyota Corolla Location: Kazan

Post by Vikchantai » Apr 28, 2015 7:54 pm

I'll try to explain as clearly as possible. I don’t understand it, but I don’t want to start the machine, I try to do everything on time. And I also don’t have any mechanics I know who I can trust to do the work (just like my own) :(. Therefore, before coming to a car service center, I study all the details so that I, as a girl, won’t be fooled. So that’s the question.

Once the “check engine” light came on on the display, then I skidded a little, well, they referred to this. This error has been removed. And upon examination they said that it was nothing serious, and it was possible to ride with her.

After two months, the indicator came on again, due to the fact that they told me not to worry (by calling again and making sure that I could drive if everything was working), I continued to drive, the indicator disappeared on its own, then reappeared.

Later I began to notice that: firstly, it seems to me that it accelerates poorly at first speed, and therefore it almost immediately requires 2nd gear and seems to be buzzing. Secondly, when braking before an intersection that is not regulated, I switch to a lower gear, then, after making sure that I can go, I add gas and a higher gear...

and then it feels like it wants to stall, it trembles, but quickly recovers (in such moments, by the way, “check engine” appears), or maybe it just trembles while driving. But it doesn't happen that often, but I don't like it.

And before I go to the car service center, I want to know if anyone has had something similar? Tell me what to do. We looked at the errors through the scanner, their numbers are 0351 and 0352. These are the spark plugs, the guy looked at the spark plugs and said that everything is in order.

We read on the Internet, they refer to something like some Taiwanese type, and that if everything is normal, then drive quietly and not pay attention, well, if it dazzles your eyes, then replace the spark plugs. But before that everything was fine; this doesn’t happen on the highway. It usually happens, well, these are my comments...after being stuck in traffic jams. Corolla December 2008, Japan.

I change the oil every 10 thousand. This time (I’ve already driven 6500) I changed the oil, but it used to be 5W-30, the store didn’t have it in stock, they assured me that 5W-40 wouldn’t do any harm. I changed the oil filter, but still don’t have the cabin filter, well, it’s probably not because of that. Don’t spread rot for what a lot has been written48RONINModerator Messages: 2629 Registered: 07 Jan 2013, 17:42 Car: May 2007
1.6 manual transmission 17 Location: Lipetsk Thanked: 39 times Thanked: 65 times

Post by 48RONIN » April 28, 2015, 8:23 pm

Vikchantai, this problem is described in clever language in TechDoc. Prepare before the service. Although it may make sense to check all electrical circuit fasteners, clamps, etc. yourself. on reels. The problem exists on the 1st and 2nd coils, and the spark plugs may have nothing to do with it, by the way, haven’t they been changed? 1 and 2 coils are the ones on the left. LENIN Messages: 2142 Registered: Jan 18, 2015, 11:53 pm Car: Toyota 150 2008 1.6 Banned: Indefinitely

Post by LENIN » April 28, 2015, 20:28

Change spark plugs only with DENSO SC20HR11. They will last you for 100,000 km.
They lied. The manufacturer recommends oil no thicker than 5W-30, but he probably knows better than your “advisers.”

Leader of the October Revolution

DyushaHonored Korollovod Messages: 11430 Registered: March 30, 2013, 01:53 pm Car: Corolla, 2011, 4 automatic transmission, 1.6 l petrol diesel, Comfort+, drank more than 9700 l/Ai92, Toebta 0W20 Location: 133, Kovrov Thanks : 7 times Thanked: 24 times

Post by Dyusha » April 28, 2015, 11:23 pm

A tester in hand and following the link from 48RONIN, first of all, go to the masses.

LENIN Messages: 2142 Registered: Jan 18, 2015, 11:53 pm Car: Toyota 150 2008 1.6 Banned: Indefinitely

Post by LENIN » April 28, 2015, 11:24 pm

He's a girl! What kind of tester?

Leader of the October Revolution

aligonHonored Korollov Messages: 333 Registered: May 12, 2013, 08:33 Car: Toyota Corolla 2012, 1.6 MKPP Location: Orsk Thanked: 2 times

Post by aligon » April 29, 2015, 07:25

When will the diagnostics based on the client’s words and recommendations on the Internet be completed!?
Is it possible to immediately tell the girl to connect her laptop to OBD 2, go online and go to the website tс-club.ru and we would do an engine diagnosis using online remote access mode. Why torment the girl with TechDocs?

If we made girls, they would never break either!
TOYOTA

LENIN Messages: 2142 Registered: Jan 18, 2015, 11:53 pm Car: Toyota 150 2008 1.6 Banned: Indefinitely

Post by LENIN » April 29, 2015, 08:30

Yes, let him first change the candles to normal ones (in any case, they need to be changed). And only under her supervision let them do it (hey, cunning masters can even “wave”... without looking)! And it will be seen there. “It will help” - OK. If it doesn’t “help”, we’ll continue scratching our heads.

Leader of the October Revolution

exxittusHonorary Corolla Messages: 4555 Registered: Jan 18, 2013, 03:46 pm Car: Corolla,2010,6MT 132hp/1ZR-FAE/Valvematic
Avensis,2002, 2L/149hp/1AZ-FSE(D4) Location : Cologne, German Thanked: 7 times

Post by exxittus » April 29, 2015, 08:59

test-yes, tester-noaligon Honorary Korollovod Messages: 333 Registered: May 12, 2013, 08:33 Car: Toyota Corolla 2012, 1.6 MKPP Location: Orsk Thanked: 2 times

Post by aligon » April 29, 2015, 09:37

Well, after replacing the spark plugs with cunning craftsmen, this is quite possible......it turns out to be some kind of German garage from the movies

If we made girls, they would never break either!
TOYOTA

validuserHonored Korollov Messages: 6048 Registered: 15 Jan 2013, 14:17 Car: Mazda CX-5 Location: Saratov Thanked: 72 times Thanked: 131 times

#10

Post by validuser » Apr 29, 2015, 06:33 pm

Vikchantai, after replacing the spark plugs (and it is advisable to replace them), it would be correct to look at the pressure in the fuel system; when there is a problem with the fuel filter, it turns out something similar to what you described above.

don_dimonyu Messages: 44 Registered: April 18, 2015, 21:48 Car: Toyota Corolla 2008

#11

Post by don_dimonyu » May 16, 2015, 11:31 pm

I agree with the last one about the fuel filter. I had a similar problem and it turned out to be the coil in the fourth cylinder (D). We found her this way. Engine breeders, then remove the terminal from the first coil, no matter which side. If the engine starts to fluctuate, then the coil is alive. Then turn off the engine and put the terminal back on.

Then start it again and remove the next terminal on the coil. And so on in turn. If nothing changed when you removed the terminal, the engine still worked, then that’s the problem. The coil of brains is shaking. Change!!! Once I did this, there were no more problems with this error. If it doesn’t help, then we need to look into it further.

And so at least experience how to trust the reel, just in case

Andrey_m Messages: 35 Registered: Dec 10, 2015, 00:47 Car: Toyota Corolla 2007 MTT Location: Moscow. region

#12

Post by Andrey_m » 27 Feb 2016, 15:06

Caught CheK.

I inserted a paper clip: the result is error 15 - Ignition system, coil No. 2 (P1305) and No. 3 (P1310) There is no scanner. I decided to change the spark plugs. We need to reset the error.

According to the technical document, you need to remove the fuses: (EFI No. 1 and ETCS) http://corolla-club.ru/doc2/rm04f1ru/repair2/html/contents/rm000000pdk03tx.html

how to find them? Andrey_m Messages: 35 Registered: December 10, 2015, 00:47 Car: Toyota Corolla 2007 MTT Location: Moscow. region

#14

Post by Andrey_m » 27 Feb 2016, 15:31

I decided to start with less. A dead coil won’t kill a candle. And a dead candle is a khan’s coil.################Found it. Mosh will be useful for anyone################### Designation Current, A Protected circuitF1 H-LP CLN 30 Headlight washerF2 RDI FAN 45 Cooling system fanF3 ABS NO.

3 30 ABS and VSCF4 ABS NO.

1 50 ABS and VSCF5 HTR 50 Air conditioning F6 ECU-B2 10 Robotic gearbox, air conditioning, Smart Entry system F7 ECU-B 10 Instrumentation, electrical control unit, VSC, central locking, power windows F8 RAD NO.

1 15 Audio systemF9 DOME 10 Interior lighting, trunk lighting, Smart Entry systemF10 STRG LOCK 20 Steering lock systemF11 AM2 30 Engine starting system, Smart Entry system, injection system

F12 ETCS 10 Throttle control system

F13 TURN-HAZ 10 Turn signals and hazard warning lightsF14 ALT-S 7.5 Battery charging systemF15 AM2 NO.2 7.5 Electrical control unitF16 H-LP MAIN 50 HeadlightsF17 P/I 50 Fuel injection systemF18 GLOW 80 Engine preheating system (for diesels)F19 EPS 60 Electric power steeringF20 ALT 120 Battery charging systemF21 IG2 15 Fuel injection system, Smart Entry systemF22 HORN 10 Sound signalF23 EFI MAIN 20 Fuel injection systemF24 - - ReserveF25 - - ReserveF26 - - ReserveF27 AMT 50 Robotic gearboxF28 HTR SUB NO.3 30 Air conditionerF29 HTR SUB NO.2 30 Air conditionerF30 HTR SUB NO.1 30 Air conditionerF31 H-LP LH LO 10 Right headlight (low beam)F32 H-LP RH LO 10 Left headlight (low beam)F33 H-LP LH HI 10 Right headlight (high beam) light)F34 H-LP RH HI 10 Left headlight (high beam)

F35 EFI NO.1 10 Injection system

F36 EFI NO.2 10 Injection system F37 IG2 NO.2 7.5 Starting system, Smart Entry system Relay purpose: No. Designation Name R1 FR DEICER Cooling system fan relay R2 IGT/INJ Headlight switch relay R3 AMT Robotic gearbox relay

R4 H-LP Headlight relay

You do not have the necessary permissions to view the attachments in this message.

Source: http://tc-club.ru/viewtopic.php?t=2436

Toyota Corolla malfunctions: error codes, diagnostics

The presence of problems in the Toyota Corolla is indicated by the lighting of the “check engine” indicator. Since with the advent of an on-board computer on such cars, this signal can indicate many problems, the owner of the vehicle should be sufficiently aware of the signals that the car gives him.

So what should you do if the light comes on?

What to do if the check engine light is on

Low-quality fuel: get rid of such fuel and fill your Toyota Corolla with gasoline with a higher octane rating.
Coil failure, no spark, faulty spark plugs: the damaged element must be replaced.
Dirty injectors: clean.
Working with intermittent lambda probe, catalyst: replacement.
The need to check the mesh on the gasoline pump: check the gasoline supply pressure, it should not be lower than 3 atmospheres. If lower, carry out repair work.
Inadequate oil level: Listen to the engine when it is warm.

If there are extraneous noises, it's time for repairs.

The indicator indicators will help you carry out self-diagnosis of your Toyota Corolla, and special error codes will indicate a specific problem and then you can decide where and how to fix it. If the manipulations to find out the reason for the indicator light are not clear to you, you can always contact the service center.

Self-diagnosis in the garage

The connector for diagnosing the engine is located near the battery or on the left, along the direction of the car. Often this is a plastic box with the inscription “diagnostics” in English.

The Toyota Corolla diagnostic instrument panel is located in the driver's cab. The indicator itself on the display can be in the form of an engine, a spiral or a “check” icon. It depends on the year of manufacture and brand of engine, the icon itself is not so important, what matters is the fault codes.

If the automatic transmission is faulty, this will be known using “Power”, “AT Check”, “OD”. Faults in other units will be displayed through their corresponding light diodes.

Socket No. 2 for diagnosing engine malfunctions is located in the cabin, at the bottom of the panel, and this facilitates trouble-free determination of malfunctions while the Toyota Corolla is in motion.

Most Common Error Codes

Toyota uses the following codes: single-digit and two-digit. Their decoding is presented in the following collection of information:

Fault detection algorithm:

Under the hood in the “Diagnostic” box, bridge the two chips “E1” and “TE1”.
Start the Toyota Corolla, turn on the air conditioner and heater and watch the indicators on the display.
Frequent blinking (pause less than half a second) more than ten times is evidence of the absence of a recorded malfunction of this type in the memory. The engine will be safe to use. Open the contacts in the fault tester and you can carry out your planned trips.
If the indicator blinks with long pauses (four and a half seconds), there is no need to worry too much: you are in for a minor maintenance-type repair.
The following two types of signal: flashing - pause - flashing - long pause - flashing (fault code 21) or flashing - interval - flashing - long interval - flashing (code 12) indicate the presence of data of this kind in the computer memory and, most likely, you awaiting major renovations.

Here is a detailed video about self-diagnosis:

In order to make sure that the Toyota Corolla malfunctions are correctly diagnosed, double-check the results on the console inside the car, under the driver's seat. If the result is the same, check the table to see what type of malfunction your car has and decide on the method and place to fix the problem.

Toyota Corolla engine failure codes (two-digit system)

Possible breakdowns of the power plant. Codes and their meaning (type 09):

11 — there is no power in the valve control system; 12, 13 - there is no signal about the number of engine revolutions; 14 - there is no negative feedback on the ignition coil; 15 - no signal from the negative contact on the second ignition coil; 16 - no signal from the automatic transmission ECU; 17 and 18 - the camshaft produces unacceptable indicators regarding the position; 21 - incorrect oxygen level indicator; 22 - the power unit is in an unacceptable temperature range; 23, 24 - incorrect data regarding the temperature of the air that is sucked in; 25 - unsaturated mixture for the fuel system; 26 - supersaturated mixture for the engine; 27, 28, 29 - the additional oxygen sensor provides incorrect data; 31 - problems with pressure in the intake manifold or incorrect air flow; 32 - the amount of air flow is determined incorrectly; 34 - problems with boost; 35 - the pressure in the intake manifold is at an unacceptable level; 38 - there was a malfunction of the fluid sensor in the automatic gearbox; 41 - incorrect indicator indicator regarding throttle localization; 42 - vehicle speeding; 43 - there is no starter signal in the engine ECU; 46 - the fourth solenoid valve is faulty; 47 - problems in the functioning of the auxiliary sensor that determines the localization of the throttle; 48 - the system providing additional fuel supply is in a faulty state; 51 - the sensor from the throttle valve does not send a signal regarding the idle speed of the Toyota Corolla; 52, 55 - the knock indicator gives incorrect signals; 53 - malfunction in the circuit regulating the knock sensors; 61 - problems in the operation of the speed measuring device; 62-65 - failure or breakdown of the solenoid valves, possibly the entire circuit; 67 - malfunction of O/D sensors; 71 — imbalance in the gas exhaust recirculation system; 72 — breakdown in the fuel cut-off system; 77 - problems in managing the pressure in the automatic transmission; 78 - the signal from the fuel pump sensor has disappeared; 81—85 — problems in the functioning of the gearbox (its different sections); 86 - the sensors responsible for recording the number of engine revolutions have become unusable; 88 - the relationship between the power plant control unit and the automatic gearbox is broken; 99 - no faults found.

Meaning of Toyota Corolla engine problem codes (type 10):

1 - functioning without disturbances; 2 — incorrect air consumption value; 3 - the switch gives an incorrect signal; 4 — the antifreeze temperature is within unacceptable limits; 5 - incorrect readings from the oxygen indicator; 6 - engine speed is unacceptable; 7 - incorrect data about the throttle position; 8 - unacceptable air temperature or incorrect readings of the temperature control sensor; 9 - the sensor responsible for recording the vehicle speed gives incorrect data; 10 - there is no signal about the start of the starter;

11 - a malfunction of the air conditioning system or automatic transmission is in position N.

ABS, TRC problem codes (code 10):

11 - a break was detected in the solenoid (relay) circuit; 12 - a short circuit has occurred in the solenoid relay; 13 - open circuit in the electric motor control relay circuit on the pump; 14 - short circuit in the pump motor circuit; 15—18 — malfunction in the solenoid on the TRC; 21—24 — malfunction in the wheel solenoid circuit; 25—27 — breakdowns in various areas of the TRC; 31—34 — wheel speed sensors provide incorrect signals; 35 and 36 - break in sensors indicating the number of wheel revolutions; 37 - the rotors responsible for monitoring the speed of the rear wheel/wheels are faulty; 41 - voltage surges; 43 - deceleration sensor is malfunctioning; 44 - breakdown in the deceleration sensor when using neutral speed; 45-49; 58 and 61 - breaks in TRS; 51—53 — breakdown of the electric motor on the pump; 55 - insufficient amount of brake fluid or incorrect data from the sensor; 56 and 57 - oil pressure problems; 62 - incorrect operation of devices that count rotational movements in the motor; 71—78 — breakdown of wheel rotation indicators;

79 — malfunction of the deceleration indicator;

OBD standard codes. The first value is a reading indicating the name of the system where the problem occurred:

P - in the engine or transmission; B - in the back of a Toyota Corolla; C - in suspension;

U - in a network system.

Using the numbers, you can accurately determine where the fault is located. Such diagnostics are carried out using special computer programs, and the codes will help you easily choose the right way to fix problems.

Diagnostics Toyota Corolla Link to main publication

Source: http://CorollaCar.ru/ekspluataciya/neispravnosty-tojota-korolla.html

Check light came on - Engine and transmission

Sent 19 September 2012 – 10:19

Guys, help me, I have no idea what to do with the car, the check engine error constantly comes on, the diagnostics show either a rich mixture or a lean one, when driving the car jerks all over, gears are switched late and jerkily, the speed fluctuates from 300 to 1000, at In neutral, the revs drop to 300, vibration begins, and the car is about to stall, then the revs rise to 900, and the car drives, Toyota Auris, robot 2007, oil, air filter, spark plugs, clutch assembly, all this has already been changed, and the funny thing is that OD throws up his hands and doesn’t know what it is, fucker, What could it be?

Sent 19 September 2012 – 10:24

ks57 , try washing the injectors and replacing the fuel filter and, for preventative purposes, rinsing the air flow sensor and throttle valve

Sent 19 September 2012 – 10:27

I had my injector washed, and the mesh in the fuel filter was cleaned, which was all clogged with some kind of “rags”, at the car service they said that it was on gasoline, but damn it got on gasoline 4 times in a row???

Post edited by ks57: 19 September 2012 – 10:39

Sent 19 September 2012 – 10:29

I don’t know for sure, but check the oxygen sensors (lambda probes), maybe they are old and tired.

Sent 19 September 2012 – 10:31

By the way, is it possible to perform self-diagnosis in Auris by bridging a couple of contacts on the diagnostic connector?

Sent 19 September 2012 – 10:34

first of all we looked at the lambda, everything is fine with it, it’s not a car, but a complete mystery (no one can understand what(

Sent 19 September 2012 – 10:34

Calcio Yes, it was on the forum somewhere.

Post edited by Stiger: 19 September 2012 – 10:35

Sent 19 September 2012 – 15:19

Thank you

Sent 19 September 2012 – 20:01

I wonder how it all started. Judging by your messages, the car was serviced by “crazy” hands at a car service center. This means you have to look where they are, these little hands were messing around.

Floating idle speed can also occur when “left” or unaccounted air is sucked in. The engine can suck air from under the throttle valve gasket.

Inspect the fuel injectors carefully to see if there are any wet spots.

Post edited by Grandfather: September 19, 2012 – 20:24

Sent 19 September 2012 – 21:22

It all started after I filled the tank full at a Rosneft gas station, at first the car began to twitch when switching, and then the speed began to drop, where the car was serviced I have no complaints, because before that I had not dealt with serious problems, now I drove the car away to the next car service, it starts every other time, jerking sooo strong, low speed

Sent 19 September 2012 – 21:29

If so, then the fuel system is clearly contaminated with something. After draining this crap from the tank and flushing the entire system with injectors, check the pressure in the fuel rail. Not sure, but the pump may be working intermittently. If so, then its replacement is inevitable.

Post edited by Grandfather: September 19, 2012 – 21:31

Sent 19 September 2012 – 21:59

They washed my injector and cleaned the mesh in the fuel filter, the mesh was clogged with some kind of rags, could it really be the same thing again?

Sent 19 September 2012 – 22:17

Measure the pressure in the fuel rail - it will tell you everything!!! I hope they also removed all the dirt from the fuel tank.

Post edited by Grandfather: September 19, 2012 – 22:19

Sent 19 September 2012 – 22:19

Ok, I'll write back tomorrow, thank you

Sent 21 September 2012 – 10:42

Blood pressure is normal

Sent 25 September 2012 – 22:41

After all the work and replacements done in the service, has anything changed in the work? If possible, contact another service. If the fuel pump and injectors are working properly, and the spark plugs are new, the engine “must” start the first time.

After all, before this (refueling with bad fuel) everything worked properly? The problem could only arise for this reason. It was already suggested above to check the oxygen sensors; perhaps they were severely “poisoned” by this fuel.

Post edited by Grandfather: September 25, 2012 – 22:48

Sent 26 September 2012 – 10:33

If an error occurs regarding the mixture, then: As a rule, this was detected by the first oxygen sensor; in testers it is designated “sensor oxygen bank 1” 1. After time, it becomes “lazy” and transmits readings to the computer late, as a result the mixture is prepared incorrectly. 2.

For the sensor itself to fail, you need to try hard, or damage the wires, or fill with bad fuel - additives in which will simply kill the electrode on the sensor itself. There are two errors with this sensor. (Services often confuse decryption.

) a) rich mixture - this means that the mixture formation system prepares a mixture where the presence of gasoline is greater than normal. b) lean mixture - accordingly, the presence of gasoline is less than normal. c) norm - the amount of air is 14.7 parts, the amount of gasoline is 1 part.

If there is a rich mixture error, you need to look (flow meter, air filter, throttle valve, the presence of air leaks through the vacuum gaskets, even through the exhaust manifold gasket, injectors, spark plugs) If there is a lean mixture error, you need to look (gasoline pump, gas line, fuel filter, injectors) PS: by the way, if the mixture is rich, then washing the injector with a “Vince” device (in almost all services) will not give anything, the device washes the injectors, but does not determine their operation, so in this case you need to clean it with an ultrasonic device, because if one of the injectors are overflowing “pissing”, then you can see this clearly and replace it AND ONE MORE THING: when searching for a problem, after each procedure you need to erase the error from memory. Otherwise, if the error is on, this means that the computer has switched the fuel map settings to service mode.

Post edited by Aspee: September 26, 2012 – 10:47

Sent 27 September 2012 – 00:18

The result was that the lambda was replaced, the mesh in the fuel filter was replaced (it was clogged again).

For two days the car worked perfectly, then some kind of “hum” appeared in the cabin, as I understand it, this is the fuel pump working? I have never heard such a sound before, the revolutions when stopping completely drop to about 300, then they become 900, when driving the car slowly accelerates, I drive on the paddles, i.e.

In first gear the car simply doesn’t go more than 20 km/h, in second gear the maximum is 40, and on top of that, when I pressed the gas, I got a squeaking sound, I called one in another city, (Initially in my city one said that it was the ECU that was screwed up, so so the car is glitching), they told me that based on all the symptoms it couldn’t be the ecu, the only thing they did was change the clutch without replacing the actuator, maybe the whole problem is in it? R.s. You will learn the entire structure of the car with this Auris (And the car starts the second time.

Sent 27 September 2012 – 08:25

If the tank is not washed, then the problems remain. It's not Toyota's fault.

Post edited by Grandfather: September 27, 2012 – 08:26

Sent 27 September 2012 – 18:08

There is another option. If the speed is poorly gained (the catalyst may be clogged), the exhaust is difficult. Try to press the brake hard in neutral, it may manifest itself as a hissing sound through the exhaust system connections.

Post edited by Stiger: 27 September 2012 – 18:13

Source: http://taclub.ru/index.php?showtopic=2907

Toyota Corolla Check Engine Light Lights Up ~ AUTOTEXNIKA.RU

Home page » Toyota Corolla Check Engine Light came on

06.07.2018

Diagnostics Toyota Corolla

The presence of problems in a Toyota Corolla is indicated by the lighting of the “check engine” indicator. People tell me Toyota bb engine 1nzfe check the engine on the spot. Since with the appearance of an on-board warning on such cars, this signal can indicate many problems, the owner of the vehicle should be quite familiar with the signals that the car gives him.

So, what should you do if the indicator lights up?

What to do if the check engine light is on

Low-quality fuel: get rid of such fuel, fill your Toyota Corolla with gasoline with a higher octane number.
Coil failure, no spark, faulty spark plugs: the damaged element needs to be replaced.
Dirty injectors: clean.
Working with intermittent lambda probe, catalyst: replacement.
The need to check the mesh on the gasoline pump: check the gasoline supply pressure, it should not be lower than 3 atmospheres. Toyota 5e-fe 1.5 engine such cars as Toyota Corolla 1.8 Corolla, Fielder.

Review of toyota corolla fielder 1.5 4wd (toyota corolla engine 1.5 toyota corolla fielder. The check light came on, check the engine Corolla 2008 robot. If below, carry out repair work.
Inadequate oil level: listen to the engine when it is warm.

If there are extraneous noises, it's time for repairs.

The characteristics of the indicator will help you carry out self-diagnosis of your Toyota Corolla, and special error codes will indicate a specific problem, then it’s up to you to decide where and how to fix it.

If the manipulations to find out why the indicator lights up are not clear to you, you can always contact the service center.

Self-diagnosis in the garage

The connector for diagnosing the motor is located near the battery or on the left, along the direction of the car. The check engine light came on Corolla 2008 robot discussion of the topic on the forum “toyota club ekaterinburg” e1.ru. This is often a plastic box labeled "diagnostics" in British.

Toyota Corolla diagnostic device display is located in the driver's cab. The indicator itself on the board can be in the form of a motor, a spiral, or a “check” icon. The check light came on after doing a prompt for Corolla 2008 and checking the engine. This depends on the year of manufacture and brand of the engine, the icon itself is not so important, what matters is the defect codes.

If the automatic transmission is faulty, this will become clear using “Power”, “AT Check”, “OD”. Faults in other units will be displayed through their respective LEDs.

Socket No. 2 for diagnosing engine defects is located in the cabin, at the bottom of the panel, and this facilitates trouble-free detection of defects while driving the Toyota Corolla.

Most Common Error Codes

Toyota uses the following codes: specific and two-digit. Check the Toyota Corolla engine: troubleshooting. Toyota Corolla forum. Existing user? Sign in. Engine . The check light came on again. Their decoding is presented in the following collection of information:

Defect detection method:

Under the hood in the “Diagnostic” box, bridge the two chips “E1” and “TE1”.
Start the Toyota Corolla, turn on the air conditioner and heater and watch the indicators on the display.
Frequent blinking (pause less than half a second) more than 10 times is evidence of the absence of a recorded malfunction of this type in the memory. The introduction of the motor will not be dangerous. Open the contacts in the defect checking device and you will be able to carry out your planned trips.
If the indicator flickers with long pauses (four and a half seconds), there is no need to worry too much: a frivolous maintenance-type repair awaits you.
The following two types of signal: flicker - pause - flicker - long pause - flicker (fault code 21) or flicker - interval - flicker - long interval - flicker (code 12) indicate the presence of data of this kind in the computer memory and, most likely, you A major renovation awaits.

Toyota Corolla 2009 “ Check Engine”

Diagnosis of errors P0171 and P0133.

What does the CHECK ENGINE indicator mean?

The stream was interrupted by a sudden call, but the main thing was said

Source: http://autotexnika.ru/tojota-korolla-zagorelsja-chek-prover-dvigatel/

Toyota Corolla E150, Auris. Possible engine malfunctions 1ZRRFE, 1NRRFE, 4ZZZFE, their causes and solutions

content .. 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 ..

Toyota Corolla E150, Auris. engine malfunctions 1ZRRFE, 1NRRFE, 4ZZZFE , their causes and troubleshooting methods

Cause of malfunction	Remedy
The engine does not start
No fuel pressure in the rail:
- fuel lines are clogged	Wash and blow out the fuel tank and fuel lines
- fuel pump is faulty	Replace the pump
- clogged fuel filter	Replace the filter
- Fuel pressure regulator is faulty	Check the regulator, replace the faulty one
- faulty ignition system	Cm. ""
The engine runs rough or stalls at idle
Insufficient pressure in the fuel rail	See fault “Engine does not start”
Idle speed controller faulty	Replace idle air control
Air leakage through the crankcase ventilation hoses and the hose connecting the intake pipe to the vacuum force of the brakes	Tighten the fastening clamps, replace damaged hoses
The engine does not develop full power and does not respond well
Incomplete throttle opening	Adjust the throttle valve actuator
Throttle position sensor is faulty	Replace the sensor
Insufficient pressure in the fuel rail	See fault “Engine does not start”
Air filter dirty	Replace filter element
Ignition system is faulty	Cm. ""
The gaps in the valve drive mechanism are broken	Check the hydraulic clearance compensators in the valve drive mechanism, replace faulty ones
Insufficient compression - below 1 MPa (10 kgf/cm2):
Blown cylinder head gasket	Replace gasket
Burnt out pistons, broken or stuck piston rings	Clean the rings and piston grooves from carbon deposits, replace damaged rings and the piston
Poor fit of valves to seats	Replace damaged valves, polish seats
Excessive wear on cylinders and piston rings	Replace pistons, bore and hone cylinders
Insufficient oil pressure in a warm engine
Using the wrong brand of oil	Change of oil
Oil thinning or foaming due to fuel or coolant entering the oil sump	Eliminate the cause of fuel or coolant penetration, change the oil
Oil filter clogged	Replace the oil filter
Loose or clogged oil receiver	Secure the oil receiver, wash its filter
Excessive reduction of the gap between the oil receiver and the bottom of the oil sump or damage to the oil receiver caused by an impact with a road obstacle	Straighten the deformed oil sump, if necessary, replace the damaged oil receiver
Increased clearance between the main and connecting rod bearings and the crankshaft journal	Sand the journals and replace the bearings
Cracks, pores in the walls of oil channels or clogged oil lines	Repair the cylinder block. If the defect cannot be eliminated, replace the unit
Knocking noise from crankshaft main bearings Usually the knock is dull, metallic. It is detected when the throttle valves are opened sharply at idle. Its frequency increases with increasing crankshaft speed. Excessive axial clearance of the crankshaft causes a sharper knock, with uneven intervals, especially noticeable when the crankshaft speed is gradually increased and decreased.
Insufficient oil pressure	See the fault “Insufficient oil pressure in a warm engine”
Flywheel mounting bolts are loose	Tighten the bolts to the recommended torque
Increased clearance between journals and main bearing shells	Sand the journals and replace the bearings
Increased clearance in the crankshaft thrust bearing	Replace the middle main bearing shells of the SOHC engine or half ring of the DOHC engine with new ones, check the clearance
Knock of connecting rod bearings Typically, the knocking noise from the connecting rod bearings is louder than the knocking noise from the main bearings. It can be heard when the engine is idling when the throttle valves are opened sharply. The location of the knock can be easily determined by turning off the spark plugs one by one
Insufficient oil pressure	See the fault “insufficient oil pressure in a warm engine”
Excessive clearance between crankshaft crankpins and bearings	Replace the liners and sand the journals
Knock of pistons The knock is usually quiet, muffled; caused by the “beating” of the piston in the cylinder. Listens best at low engine speeds and under load.
Increased clearance between pistons and cylinders	Replace pistons, bore and hone cylinders
Excessive clearance between piston rings and piston grooves	Replace rings or pistons with rings
Increased noise of the gas distribution mechanism
Low oil pressure in the lubrication system	See the fault “Insufficient oil pressure in a warm engine”
Air entering the hydraulic lash adjusters in the valve drive mechanism due to too low (air entrapment by the pump) or too high (oil foaming) oil level in the engine	Bleed air from hydraulic compensators
Contamination of the cavities of the hydraulic clearance compensators in the valve drive mechanism due to the use of low-quality oil or damage to the oil filter	Wash hydraulic compensators, change oil and filter
Wear of the working surfaces of the hydraulic gap compensators in the channel drive mechanism caused by the use of low-quality oil or untimely replacement of it	Replace hydraulic compensators
Valve spring failure	Replace the spring
Excessive clearance between valve stem and guide due to wear	Replace the guide bushing with the next repair size bushing
Camshaft cam wear	Replace camshaft
A knocking sound on a cold engine, audible for 2-3 minutes after starting and increasing with increasing crankshaft speed
Increased clearance between pistons and cylinders	Piston knocking that disappears after the engine warms up is not a sign of a malfunction. If there is a constant knocking, replace the pistons, bore and hone the cylinders
Contamination of the working surfaces of hydraulic clearance compensators in the valve drive	Clean the hydraulic lash adjusters
Loose crankshaft pulley	Tighten the mount
Brief knocking noises immediately after starting the engine
Use of an inappropriate grade of oil (low viscosity) Contamination of the working surfaces of the hydraulic clearance compensators in the valve drive	Replace the oil with the one recommended by the vehicle manufacturer. Wash the hydraulic clearance adjusters.
Increased crankshaft axial clearance	Replace the middle main bearing shells on a SOHC engine or the thrust races on a DOHC engine.
Increased front main bearing clearance	Replace the front main bearing shell
Knocks in a warm engine at idle
Loose or worn accessory drive belts	Adjust the belt tension or replace them
Noise from timing parts	See the fault “Increased noise of the gas distribution mechanism”
Using the wrong brand of oil	Replace the oil with the one recommended by the vehicle manufacturer
Increased clearances between the piston pins and the holes in the piston bosses	Replace pistons and pins
Increased clearances between crankshaft connecting rod journals and bearings	Replace the liners and sand the journals
The axes of the upper and lower connecting rod heads are not parallel	Replace connecting rod
Strong knocking noises in a warm engine when the crankshaft speed increases
Crankshaft pulley hub failure	Replace damaged parts
Accessory drive belts are over-tensioned or cracked or torn.	Adjust belt tension, replace damaged belts
Flywheel loosening	Tighten the flywheel mounting bolts to the required torque.
Excessive increase in the gaps between the connecting rod and main bearings of the crankshaft	Re-grind the journals to the repair size and replace the liners
Increased engine vibration
Crankshaft imbalance	Remove and balance the crankshaft
Pistons of different weights are installed	Disassemble the connecting rod and piston group, select pistons by weight
Unstable operation of hydraulic gap compensators in the valve drive mechanism	Disassemble the valve drive, wash the hydraulic compensators from dirt, replace severely worn hydraulic compensators
Not the same compression values in the cylinders	Cm. ""
The powertrain suspension mount pads are heavily worn or hardened	Replace the supports
The crankshaft pulley or accessory pulleys are loose	Tighten the fastenings
Increased oil consumption
Oil leakage through engine seals	Tighten fastenings or replace gaskets and seals
The crater ventilation system is clogged	Wash the crankcase ventilation system parts
Worn piston rings or engine cylinders	Bore the cylinders and replace pistons and rings
Broken piston rings	Replace the rings
Coking of oil scraper rings or grooves in the piston grooves due to the use of non-recommended oil	Clean the rings and grooves from carbon deposits, replace the engine oil with the one recommended in the application
Worn or damaged valve stem seals	Replace valve stem seals
Increased wear on valve stems or guides	Replace valves, adjust cylinder head
Engine overheating
Insufficient amount of liquid in the cooling system	Add coolant to the cooling system
The outer surface of the radiator is heavily soiled	Clean the outer surface of the radiator with a jet of water
Thermostat is faulty	Replace Thermostat
Cooling system fans are faulty	Check the fan motors and their switching relays, replace faulty components
The radiator cap valve is faulty (constantly open, causing the system to be at atmospheric pressure)	Replace the radiator cap
Using gasoline with a reduced octane rating	Fill with gasoline with the appropriate octane number
Rapid drop in fluid level in the expansion tank
Radiator damaged	Repair or replace cylinder
Damage to hoses or gaskets in pipeline connections, loosening of clamps	Replace damaged hoses or gaskets, replace hose clamps
Liquid leakage through the water pump seal	Replace the water pump
Damaged cylinder head gasket	Replace gasket
Liquid leakage through microcracks in the block or cylinder head	Check the tightness of the block and cylinder head; if cracks are found, replace damaged parts