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Winter, Toyota Corolla will not start: problem solving

Toyota Corolla Forum

Electrical component of Toyota Corolla. Electrical circuits, electrical problems, search for solutions.sanya81 Messages: 9 Registered: March 22, 2014, 3:29 pm Car: Toyota Corolla 1.6

#1

Post by sanya81 » Mar 22, 2014, 03:55 pm

Hello everyone, maybe someone has had a similar experience, please tell me! I get into the car and press the brake pedal. and the indicator on the start/stop button does not light up green, the manual transmission selector is in position N, the handbrake is on.

And it happens that it lights up green, but when you press the button it turns into yellow, signaling that it is not ready to start the engine; when pressed, the starter turns slightly, but it is knocked out, as if the terminal contact is bad.

sanya81 Posts: 9 Registered: Mar 22, 2014, 3:29 pm Car: Toyota Corolla 1.6

#2

Post by sanya81 » Mar 22, 2014, 4:03 pm

And also, I turn on the manual transmission selector, either R or E, to make the indicator light up green again and try to start it again, the starter turns over a little, the instrument lights go out and turn yellow again on the button, I repeat the operation several times until I start it. Sometimes this happens after every engine stop, but it happens not once in a week.

BegemotHonorary member of the club Messages: 966 Registered: January 15, 2013, 14:23 Car: Corolla 150 MMT with transformation into Hyndai ix35 Location: Krasnodar Thanked: 1 time

#3

Post by Begemot » Mar 22, 2014 4:37 pm

Has the battery been checked? Try with another.

48RONINModerator Messages: 2629 Registered: 07 Jan 2013, 17:42 Car: May 2007
1.6 manual transmission 17 Location: Lipetsk Thanked: 39 times Thanked: 65 times

#6

Post by 48RONIN » Mar 22, 2014, 7:20 pm

My wife had something similar in a KIA Picanta with an engine start button, which was cured by re-tightening the mass harness from the battery negative to the body of the car.

The problem (not an isolated case) was that when screwing this wire at the factory, the tightening was done with a self-tapping screw into the painted body, and naturally the contact was poor since the self-tapping screw did not partially “cut off” the paint. Check the negative terminals.

sanya81 Posts: 9 Registered: Mar 22, 2014, 3:29 pm Car: Toyota Corolla 1.6

#7

Post by sanya81 » Mar 22, 2014, 8:00 pm

Thanks, I checked it with Clem.

I started the car, I’m telling you how, a friend arrived, I gave him a hammer, I said knock on the starter retractor, while turning on the ignition, I pressed the brake and watched the button indicator, when struck, the button indicator changed color from yellow to green and pressed the button, the starter started turn over and lo and behold... it starts. Now I’m standing still and not turning it off. It looks like the problem is in the starter retractor, what do you think, maybe someone changed it?

BegemotHonorary member of the club Messages: 966 Registered: January 15, 2013, 14:23 Car: Corolla 150 MMT with transformation into Hyndai ix35 Location: Krasnodar Thanked: 1 time

#8

Post by Begemot » Mar 23, 2014 08:58

There was no such thing here. I don't remember any problems with the starters. Still, I tend to think about bad contact. High-voltage to the starter, controlled from the ACC terminal of the ignition switch, check the ground.

It is unlikely that problems with the retractor itself cause changes in the color of the button indicator when tapped.
A case of beer, a pit, a day off and a breakdown. I'd go to an electrician. 200%. Not the same years Once upon a time Zaporozhets himself removed from the engine.

sanya81 Posts: 9 Registered: Mar 22, 2014, 3:29 pm Car: Toyota Corolla 1.6

#9

Post by sanya81 » Mar 23, 2014, 10:56 am

Yes, no way without a hole. I really told the master who changed the stabilizer bushings about my problem; he checked the positive terminal of the starter in front of me and disconnected and reconnected the thin starter wire. But the plus could oxidize, even if tightened.

sanya81 Posts: 9 Registered: Mar 22, 2014, 3:29 pm Car: Toyota Corolla 1.6

#10

Post by sanya81 » 09 Apr 2014, 18:57

I still haven’t solved my problem, but now the indicator on the start-stop button doesn’t light up at all, I had to unhook the thin wire from the starter, insert one end into the connector, touch the other to the positive terminal of the battery, and start it. I went for diagnostics “in garages”, searched for 3 hours, deleted some error and still did not start with the button. He promised to find the diagrams and we’ll try again.

sanya81 Posts: 9 Registered: Mar 22, 2014, 3:29 pm Car: Toyota Corolla 1.6

#11

Post by sanya81 » April 24, 2014, 6:41 pm

It seems my topic is not relevant at all on the forum. But I will still say that the problem was in the neutral position sensor, tapping on the starter retractor, or switching the selector only gave some vibrations to this sensor and a contact appeared, or something like that!

andromeda1973 Messages: 164 Registered: Nov 26, 2013, 6:07 pm Car: Toyota Corolla E 150.1NR-Fe.1.33, mileage 164,000, 2012. Location: Tavda, Sverdlovsk region

#12

Post by andromeda1973 » Apr 24, 2014 6:43 pm

Well, at least he did it well.
It’s just that there are very few cars in this configuration, which is why it’s out of date

The purest joy is the schadenfreude we feel when observing the misfortunes of those we envy...

sanya81 Posts: 9 Registered: Mar 22, 2014, 3:29 pm Car: Toyota Corolla 1.6

#13

Post by sanya81 » April 24, 2014, 11:48 pm

Yes, but with MMT there are many configurations and such sensors (there are 3 of them) all MMT does not depend on a button or a key, probably the case is still rare.

andromeda1973 Messages: 164 Registered: Nov 26, 2013, 6:07 pm Car: Toyota Corolla E 150.1NR-Fe.1.33, mileage 164,000, 2012. Location: Tavda, Sverdlovsk region

#14

Posted by andromeda1973 » Apr 25, 2014 7:16 pm

Yes, it looks like it

The purest joy is the schadenfreude we feel when observing the misfortunes of those we envy...

terani4 Messages: 4 Registered: Oct 19, 2014, 12:08 Car: Toyota Corolla e150 Location: Yoshkar-Ola

#15

Post by terani4 » Oct 19, 2014 3:45 pm

The problem is this: I insert the key, turn it to start the car, but it won’t start, finally there’s zero reaction, the P/S icon lights up and it says, check the power steering, something starts buzzing in the fuse block, it’s buzzing where fuses 28-31 are shown, and the Carlson switches on. Thank you for your reply.

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validuserHonored Korollov Messages: 6048 Registered: 15 Jan 2013, 14:17 Car: Mazda CX-5 Location: Saratov Thanked: 72 times Thanked: 131 times

#17

Post by validuser » 19 Oct 2014, 21:53

Even with a faulty electric power steering unit, engine starting should be normal. First, check all the fuses. And the question is: why did this happen? What manipulations were carried out on the car before?

DyushaHonored Korollovod Messages: 11430 Registered: March 30, 2013, 01:53 pm Car: Corolla, 2011, 4 automatic transmission, 1.6 l petrol diesel, Comfort+, drank more than 9700 l/Ai92, Toebta 0W20 Location: 133, Kovrov Thanks : 7 times Thanked: 24 times

#18

Post by Dyusha » Oct 20, 2014, 00:18

What kind of pepelats is it that says power steering, not power steering?
What kind of signals are there?

St88 Honorary Korollov Messages: 1803 Registered: May 13, 2013, 12:57 Car: Toyota Corolla 2013, manual transmission, comfort +, sedan, white. Location: Tagan Thanked: 1 time Thanked: 1 time

#19

Post by St88 » Oct 20, 2014, 10:43 am

maybe it is equipped with power steering, and not like ours with electric steering...

PS: first check all the previous...

“”noname:
I don’t understand – is it a 2-stroke jerker? Cylinders 1 and 4, 2 and 3 operate in one stroke. “”

Go

Source: http://tc-club.ru/viewtopic.php?t=2008&start=20

Toyota Corolla 2C won't start in cold weather - FORUM

Toyota Corolla 2C won't start in cold weather
koston Date: Wednesday, 09 Nov 2011, 17:06 | Message #1
Group: Users interested Messages: Reputation: 0 [] On the site: NO From: Ufa Car: Toyota Corolla 2C Good day to all. I have a problem (with the onset of cold weather, the car began to have difficulty starting, after being parked overnight, you have to turn the starter for a very long time to start it (for 30-40 seconds you turn the car, it starts to shake and starts) after running for about two minutes you can start it again without problems. They said it was a choke air, yesterday I installed transparent hoses, I start pumping the frog with no effect (I remove the hose coming from the tank from the frog, suck in the fuel and hold the hose with my hand, the fuel does not go back, but as soon as I start pumping fuel through the hose going to the injection pump and close it with my hand, the fuel goes away into the tank (there is a hole in the tank cap). I'm already tormented with a diesel engine in winter (what should I do? I also installed an alarm with Starline a92 autostart, no use (as soon as the engine temperature drops to 5, it can no longer start it (((start interval is at 20 minutes after 2 hours the engine cools down quickly Post has been edited by koston – Wednesday, November 09, 2011, 17:07
mishanja Date: Wednesday, 09 Nov 2011, 18:08 | Message #2
Group: Verified old-timers Messages: Reputation: 4 [] On the website: NO From: Ukraine Odessa Car: nissan U11 LD20 First of all, check the functionality of the glow plugs.
koston Date: Wednesday, 09 Nov 2011, 18:21 | Message #3
Group: Users interested Messages: Reputation: 0 [] On the site: NO From: Ufa Car: Toyota Corolla 2C installed new ones! Yes, my problem is that the salary is running away. So I think I can install a HYUNDAI ACCENT solenoid valve, the price is 268 rubles. Post has been edited by koston – Wednesday, November 09, 2011, 20:03
Kolyamba Date: Thursday, 10 Nov 2011, 16:49 | Message #4
Group: Verified mechanic Messages: Reputation: 8 [] On the website: NO From: Kemerovo Car: KIA OPTIMA 2012 Your system will simply become airy. Why bother with unnecessary valves, just check the integrity of all fuel hoses and connections. TOYOTA MARK-II 1991 2LT – WAS KIA CERATO 2007 – was KIA OPTIMA – now
slkirill Date: Friday, 18 Nov 2011, 12:36 | Message #5
Group: Users interested Messages: Reputation: 0 [] On the site: NO From: Khabarovsk region Car: Master surf/2CT Check valve clearances. May be jammed.
koston Date: Wednesday, 30 Nov 2011, 16:52 | Message #6
Group: Users interested Messages: Reputation: 0 [] On the site: NO From: Ufa Car: Toyota Corolla 2C I changed all the fuel system pipes to transparent ones! Now the engine doesn’t run away, but starting is still difficult((((I recently changed the nozzles on the injectors (two pissed) the result was not successful(((everything is still the same(what should I do?????
carpenter Date: Wednesday, 30 Nov 2011, 17:17 | Message #7
Group: VI Locksmith Messages: Reputation: 25 [] On the website: NO From: Suzdal Car: Toyota Surf 2l-t(e) -Hello Ufa! I bought my locomotive from you, but I can’t cure it, but if I haven’t tried it, make an autonomous container, for example, a washer reservoir from an old Lada, with supply and return pipes in it, respectively, for the diesel engine and start in the morning. -if you also look for an air leak near the injection pump, -pipes, seals on the injection pump -rubber bands... -injection pump -mechanics? If the start is normal, then look at the fuel line from the tank - frog - it often sucks through it - tank ventilation - filter - replace.
koston Date: Wednesday, 30 Nov 2011, 21:38 | Message #8
Group: Users interested Messages: Reputation: 0 [] On the site: NO From: Ufa Car: Toyota Corolla 2C Yes, I just changed the tubes to transparent ones! The air leak is gone! but it still starts the same way ((tomorrow I’ll look at the glow plug relay, maybe it’s dead (but it clicks like that when it’s turned on
carpenter Date: Wednesday, 30 Nov 2011, 22:10 | Message #9
Group: VI Locksmith Messages: Reputation: 25 [] On the website: NO From: Suzdal Car: Toyota Surf 2l-t(e) stop, then take a control light, throw it on the spark plug power wire, - the key is on the start - the spiral on the dash has gone out, the light is on at full intensity - start, it should continue to burn, and until a signal comes from the temperature sensor - only then will it switch at full intensity and only after a while the voltage will be released. -if the relays click like machine guns, it’s possible that you have it - so often it happens to everyone - there’s a break in the temperature sensor. - there are two wires - it’s at 2lt - located under the intake manifold - where you have it - look at the manual. Restore the break and the whole algorithm to recover - take a puff of air into the air for a quick start - if it catches it right away, the candles will definitely be cheaper ..
seregaavto Date: Friday, 02 Dec 2011, 21:36 | Message #10
Group: Users interested Messages: Reputation: 0 [] On the site: NOT From: Ekterinburg (nearby) Car: toyota corona 1996 2C I came across a dead relay, it also clicked, but did not warm up, there is also one magic mesh in the injection pump under the valve, check if it is dirty, and on the fuel filter the valve on top sometimes sucks air, causing some of the diesel fuel to return to the tank. There was such a problem: the solution is replacement cover (pump) of the fuel filter and everything started to start with half a kick.
koston Date: Friday, 02 Dec 2011, 21:58 | Message #11
Group: Users interested Messages: Reputation: 0 [] On the site: NO From: Ufa Car: Toyota Corolla 2C I checked the heater relay, everything works fine! I removed the airiness in the system (I changed all the hoses) but it still won’t start (((I just installed a full battery (I only have this problem when it’s left at night (I can’t start) and when it’s warm it starts normally! I think maybe the compression is bad? I tried it too start with “quick start” it only gets worse, the starter stops turning normally. Damn, she tortured me ((( plzzzz help Post has been edited by koston - Friday, 02 Dec 2011, 21:59
DIESELMASTER Date: Saturday, 03 Dec 2011, 10:45 | Message #12
Group: AdministratorsAdmin Messages: Reputation: 173 [] On the site: NOT From: Nizhny Novgorod region, Dzerzhinsk. Car: TLC-100vx 1HD-FTE 00. Check the compression on a cold engine. before you ask, try to find the answer yourself –> SEARCH ON THE SITE
Ural_1980 Date: Sunday, 08 Feb 2015, 20:31 | Message #13
Group: Users interested Messages: Reputation: 0 [] On the site: NO From: Surgut Car: Kaldina/diesel Hi all! The topic is old, but there is no solution. I have a similar problem with launching one to one. There are suspicions of compression; when starting with a disassembled air filter, a transparent exhaust comes out of the pipe, although it should be similar to the intake of air; I get the opposite. What are your considerations?
Dimcha Date: Sunday, 08 Feb 2015, 22:06 | Message #14
Group: Flood exterminator locksmith Messages: Reputation: 11 [] On the site: NO From: Kachkanar Car: Corolla 1988 1C Ural_1980 , what do you mean there is no solution? you rule out air leaks, spark plugs and relays, check compression and valves, well, the battery and starter should be normal. And it will start, it won’t go anywhere. Yes, also, is there a zilch if you open the tank lid? eliminate this too.
Ural_1980 Date: Monday, 23 Feb 2015, 20:35 | Message #15
Group: Users interested Messages: Reputation: 0 [] On the site: NO From: Surgut Car: Kaldina/diesel I’m new to diesel engines, so if you can explain what it’s like when you open the tank lid, it’s a blast. - Air leakage is excluded, I explain - the engine starts when hot, even if there was a leak, my engine would have already started and would have only run at idle speed and would have stalled. If you have other opinions about the suction, write. -I exclude candles because... I removed it and checked it on the battery. I also checked it in detail, it goes + when the ignition is turned on, it goes exactly, on the dashboard the glow plugs go out within 5 seconds, then another 10-15 seconds later + it turns off, you can hear it on the switch. -The battery is normal because... The engine turns very vigorously, so the starter is also normal. Most likely it's a compression issue and you need to check the valves. You just need to agree with the vomiters about measuring the compression, and I’ll write back when they do it. Here’s another point about the valves, on these engines (2c) there is often a problem with thermal clearances and in general the head on the 2c is a weak point... What do you say, experts? Please, before writing what is most likely, read all the messages above the creator of the topic koston, so suction, dead injectors, sprayers, plungers are excluded... Added (23 Feb 2015, 20:35)————————————————The belt broke. Message has been edited by Ural_1980 - Monday, 23 Feb 2015, 20:34
pul752 Date: Sunday, 01 Mar 2015, 19:16 | Message #16
Group: UsersExperiencedMessages:Reputation: 2 []On the site: NOTFrom: town. Davydovka, Voronezh region. Machine: CALDINA CT190 2C Hello! Serious destruction? Oleg “If one person assembled, then another can always take it apart...”
Ural_1980 Date: Thursday, 09 Apr 2015, 20:10 | Message #17
Group: Users interested Messages: Reputation: 0 [] On the site: NO From: Surgut Car: Kaldina/diesel Quote Ural_1980 ()200?'200px':''+(this.scrollHeight+5)+'px');>Most likely it’s a compression issue and you need to look at the valves. You just need to agree with the vomiters about measuring the compression, and I’ll write back when they do it. Here’s another point about the valves, on these engines (2c) there is often a problem with thermal clearances and in general the head on the 2c is a weak point... It’s not luck, to all my problems there was also the fact that after starting the engine, the timing belt flew off... Added (09 Apr 2015, 19:33)——————————————— Quote koston ()200?'200px':''+(this.scrollHeight+5)+'px'); >Good afternoon everyone. I have a problem (with the onset of cold weather, the car began to have difficulty starting, after being parked overnight, you have to turn the starter for a very long time to start it (for 30-40 seconds you turn the car, it starts to shake and starts) after running for about two minutes you can start it again without problems. They said it was a choke air, yesterday I installed transparent hoses, I start pumping the frog with no effect (I remove the hose coming from the tank from the frog, suck in the fuel and hold the hose with my hand, the fuel does not go back, but as soon as I start pumping fuel through the hose going to the injection pump and close it with my hand, the fuel goes away into the tank (there is a hole in the tank cap). I'm already tormented with a diesel engine in the winter (what should I do? I also installed an alarm with Starline a92 autostart, no use (as soon as the engine temperature drops to 5, it can no longer start it (((start interval is at 20 minutes after 2 hours the engine cools down quickly. I solved a similar problem by removing the head, replacing the valves because there was a stuck valve, the engine oil needs to be changed more often, about every 5 t.km. Added (09 Apr 2015, 20:10)——————————————— Quote pul752 ()200?'200px':''+(this.scrollHeight+5)+'px') ;>Hello! Serious damage? When the belt broke, the valve did not bend, although on the Internet it is written about 2C that it bends 100%, I still changed the valves because the old ones were no longer suitable for grinding in.
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Source: http://dieselmastera.ru/forum/6-1862-1

“Japanese” won’t start, help needed [Archive] – AvtoSaratov

View full version : Japanese car won't start, need help

Good afternoon, dear forum users. I have a Toyota Corolla, 1992. 101 body engine 4e. Until yesterday it started without problems with “half a turn”. Yesterday it suddenly didn’t want to start. I changed the spark plugs, put in another battery, the result is 0. I also poured hot water. There is a spark, fuel is supplied, but there is no starting until now. Please someone help at least with anything!

1.does the starter turn? 2. Is the start relay activated? -check the fuse link in the battery cable -check all the connections both in the cabin and in the box under the hood

if all are intact, then further along the chain is the start prohibition switch

1.yes it turns 2???where is it if I knew where these fuses are((((

I consulted with a mechanic today and advised me to change the filter and fuel pump. Let's see what comes of it...

1. Did you pour some crap into the engine for a quick start? If it was pouring, then the injectors could clog and along with them the spark plugs. 2. Is the fuel pump working? 3. If it works, check the fuel coarse filter first. On the 101 it is located under the rear seat. You need to pull up the lower part of the seat, then unscrew the pump, there will be a mesh on it (this is the filter), you need to wash it if it is clogged. 4. The fine filter is located under the hood, but before changing it you need to look at the mesh; if it was clogged, then change the fine filter.

Is there even a spark?

warm up the car in a warm garage and it will come to life, then pour 300 grams of pure alcohol into the tank and you will be happy: victory:

warm up the car in a warm garage and it will come to life, then pour 300 grams of pure alcohol into the tank and you will be happy: victory:

Like Varian, yes, they refueled with shit? Where did you last fill up and when?

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crap for a quick start lil))) effect 0. there is a spark. I didn’t get to the filter, I can’t unscrew the fuel hose.... (I’m very angry even in the cold, it’s been 3 days brainwashing....!!!). last time it was filled in at TNK on Chernyshevsky near the 4th mountain. I'm sick. I need everything for a hundred!!! Guys, I have a machine gun in tow, I'll drag it to death, nothing will happen? And how about a hundred jaguar? she is the closest...

you should have position N on your selector here and tow here is another link http://www.toyota-club.net/index.htm in the evening maybe something will come in handy

)))Thank you. about N and no more than 40 km/h, I know that. It’s just that everyone has different opinions about towing an automatic machine. So I decided to listen to opinions.

the main thing is don’t rush for a hundred, you will always have time, the Japanese are not basins for you, they don’t just break, and especially since we have a hundred more here, sit and think,
I would also look at the high-voltage wires and if possible, I would plug in new ones, then you need to listen to the start relay, you need to listen to the key turned the starter and the fuel started running and the start relay should work

Alexey Igorevich

20.12.2009, 20:52

I think that the problem is not in the gasoline, but in some sensors... like a hall sensor, etc. On an automatic transmission, tow carefully... and first of all, check the sensors! This is a common occurrence on older models... Yes! local hundred in Japan is a nightmare!…

they don’t understand anything (in most cases), but at the same time they pose as guru-senseis and write out a multi-zero sentence and it is not a fact that the disease will go away.

ps in Japan at the next maintenance (if we are talking about old people... there are also retrogrades there, which are exploited.

old models) change all the sensors, but with us they will drive until he dies

It's either the wiring or the actual sensor that prevents the engine from starting. Where is your car?

Alexey Igorevich

20.12.2009, 21:23

if the problem is in the hall sensor...then you can try the Boshev ones...they are cheaper (although I don’t know how in Saratov) my bro had a similar problem on a Karina E 98gv...about 7 years ago.

replaced the hall sensor with a Boshevsky one (from Audeya) - it flew like hello

oh, good advice. Thanks in advance. Tell me, approximately how should the start relay operate? Sorry, of course, I have the first Japanese one and I don’t boom boom in them (((otherwise the starter turns and that’s it. The car is located in a sunny area of ​​a magnet hypermarket.

I think the wires are good because There is a spark. If there are wires then the engine. At least somehow I would have grasped it. Well, or Troil. But this is my opinion.

You are not getting fuel. Change the fine fuel filter, clean the injectors or change them too (don’t clean them with ultrasound, they die after that in 99% of cases) and check the fuel pipes.

Do you mean the fuel is not supplied at the required pressure? because fuel is supplied to the spark plugs. Yes, and if I think about it logically, I sprayed it with a quick start, and at least somehow I should catch the engine. but he doesn’t want to at all...maybe I’m wrong

In any case, I’ll try with the sensors if I find where they are and clean the filter and change the one under the hood. By the way, can you tell me where the fuel filter is?

Alexander

Source: http://www.autosaratov.ru/phorum/archive/index.php/t-88652.html

Car won't start in cold weather Toyota

If your Toyota Corolla does not start in winter, you can help it with this. Important!: if the car does not start and it happened far from the city, before you panic and climb into the ill-fated connector. By performing a step-by-step check of all components, you can independently find out the reason for this behavior of the car.

Winter and cold pose many dangers for your car. Probably every experienced and inexperienced driver has encountered such a situation when you go outside, get into a frozen car, insert the key into the lock, turn it, and the car, in turn, does not show any obvious signs of life. In such a situation, there is no need to panic.

It feels like something is overheating, the car immediately stalls and won't start until. There is always a solution to the problem - in this article we will talk about how to deal with such situations. Here in the North it can be funny to watch how some car in the cold cannot cope with blowing off the windows and...

We'll tell you what to do if your Toyota Corolla won't start.

Reasons why a car does not want to start

Before looking at different ways to solve one problem, it is worth talking about what are the reasons why your car won't start. The car won't start 9 22k 0. In fact, there are only 5 main problems:

  1. Bad oil;
  2. Weak battery;
  3. Faulty starter;
  4. Poor ignition system settings or damaged spark plugs;
  5. Bad fuel or its supply system is broken.

Oil problems

Let's look at each reason separately. Bad oil. Almost any warrior can independently check the consistency of the oil. 1G-FE Doesn't start in cold weather. We just need to pull out the dipstick and take a look.

At -17 it's generally easy to start, it's not freezing yet)) As a rule, this reason occurs after the car has been left overnight at a temperature of -15 degrees. Every driver should remember one simple rule - you should not drive in winter with summer oil or oil with an expired expiration date.

9 CDTI 2002 THE CAR HEATS UP AND WILL NOT START COOL UP STARTS WHAT IS THE REASON TELL US By buying cheap oil, you are complicating your life, and also taking away the service life of your car’s power unit.

There is a solution to the problem, or rather there are two of them. The first solution involves placing the car in a warm garage to warm it up - within 24 hours the oil will warm up and become the same.

After this happens, the oil should be changed to winter or better quality, preferably designed for severe frosts. Why the car won't start - Ford Mondeo - Ford Mondeo forum The second method is suitable for those for whom changing the oil is a very big problem.

After you have parked your car, you should pour -100-150 milliliters of gasoline into the crankcase, which will prevent the oil from thickening overnight, and with the first start of the engine and the oil flowing through the system, it will evaporate without leaving a trace - this procedure should be repeated before every frosty season. at night. This is a must if you want to start your car in the morning and drive it away.

TOP 10 REASONS WHY A CAR WILL NOT START IN FREEZE

Store: Source: In this video I will tell you about the TOP 10

Do not start TOYOTA COROLLA FIELDER in cold weather

About what needs to be done to make the car start in any frost . Start it at -40!!!

Weak battery

If everything is fine with the oil, you should check the battery. It is worth noting that if your battery is more than three years old, it should be replaced immediately.

Read also:  Where and how to replace Toyota Corolla stabilizer bushings

It is advisable to do this better before winter, while there are no severe frosts yet.

The new Opel vectra does not start in cold weather. The best option would be to buy a maintenance-free battery, which has significantly better qualities in relation to a dismountable one.

If your battery is less than three years old, the reason may be related to the terminals or to its discharge in the cold. The car does not start in cold weather. In the first case, we need to remove the terminals and clean them well, then put them back on, tighten them well and try to start the Toyota again. If this option does not help, the battery should be charged.

Toyota Camry will not start After frost, the Toyota car will not start. We take it off and take it for charging. Charging is carried out within 6-7 hours. If the problem is not resolved after charging, the battery has reached a deep discharge and cannot be restored.

Re: The car does not start in cold weather Opel vectra and does not start in cold weather You should return to the very first option and just buy a new battery.

Poor starter performance

If everything is in order with the oil and battery, then the problem is in the starter. It is very easy to identify problems with the starter; as a rule, if it is faulty, the wires coming from the battery will become very hot - this may be due to various reasons, one of them is a short circuit of the starter.

To solve this problem, it is best to contact a service station, where they will inspect and repair you. If repair is impossible, you will have to replace the entire starter, and this will cost you a pretty penny. Why may a diesel engine not start in frosty temperatures 16 degrees?

Frost does not start -30 — Page 3 — Kia Ceed Club Self-checking and repairs are only possible if you are very well versed in the operation of this mechanism.

Ignition fault

If all previous attempts to restore engine performance have not been successful, you should pay attention to the ignition system and the suitability of the spark plugs.

If the shaft spins well and there is at least one pop when turning it, then this means one thing - a faulty spark plug. This problem can be corrected - you should clean the spark plugs and try to start the car again.

But this option is suitable only for those cases when the spark plugs are new; if they have served their mileage, they should be replaced with new ones.

Before installing new spark plugs, you should adjust the electrode gaps - this is very important! If repairing the spark plugs did not help you, it is best to check everything else at a service center, since the ignition system is complex and its repair requires special skills that only specialists have.

Poor fuel quality

Bad fuel is the worst enemy of any motorist, especially in winter. In winter, you should only refuel at trusted gas stations, as others may dilute gasoline with water or gasoline, but with a lower octane number.

Engine won't start in cold weather!!! what to do? If there is water in gasoline, this is a problem.

The fact is that it condenses very well and during frosts it can create a plug in the fuel system - there is only one solution to warm up your car in a warm garage, preferably by additionally warming up your car inside and out.

If, after warming up the car, the car still does not start, you should add higher quality gasoline, thereby increasing the octane number. New Focus Club - the car does not start. Here the whole point may be the poor flammability of gasoline, which, when entering the cylinder, does not evaporate sufficiently and does not react to the spark plugs.

So, we have looked at all the main reasons and ways to revive your car in winter. If none of the options help you start your car, you should contact a diagnostic center and have your car fully checked.

Source: http://sunny-avto.ru/ne-zavoditsja-mashina-v-moroz-tojota/

Toyota Corolla 1993 won't start in cold weather

Winter, Toyota Corolla will not start: solution to the problem. Winter and cold pose many dangers for your car. The next Toyota Corolla will be equipped with BWM engines.

Toyota Carina “cybernetic” › Logbook › Toyota does not start in cold weather. Doesn't start at temperatures below C. Turn it around, don’t turn it around, but it’s not realistic to start =(Toyota “sneezes” and that’s it.

About the logo. The Toyota logo is a triple oval. Two internal ovals located perpendicularly symbolize the strong relationship between the client and the company. In addition, if you look closely and use your imagination a little, in these ovals you can see an image of all six letters of the brand name T, O, Y, O, T, A.

Why Toyota Corolla does not start in winter: the main reasons. like Toyota Corolla, they offer customers versions with an automatic transmission, which are much more vulnerable to cold weather than manual models.

This may cause the vehicle to malfunction or cause a collision due to the engine suddenly starting. If your battery is less than three years old, the reason may be related to the terminals or to its discharge in the cold.

A dirty filter will allow the engine to start, but will not allow it to drive normally.

Dirty, oily insulation breaks through sooner or later, and burning and oxidation of any contact surface can serve as the only and sufficient reason for the failure of the ignition system.

Help! Car won't start – Toyota Corolla Forum

Don't lose either one or the other. If a missing tie out of nowhere or a pant leg burnt by an iron can cause a business meeting to be disrupted, what can we say about a car that doesn’t want to start an hour before the scheduled negotiations.

Early in the morning, freshly shaved and full of great plans for your child - to go to school, for your wife to go to the hairdresser, and for yourself to earn a penny, you jump into the car, “key to start” and Nervous manipulations with the key and pedals do not bring success. The day is ruined from the very beginning. Plans and mood are down the drain. There is no need to rush under the hood in an English suit and, smearing the oily dirt with a tie, try to make a diagnosis. You probably won't be able to cure it in 5 minutes.

Take another car, and leave the treatment of your sick friend until the evening. And it’s better to entrust it to doctors with a good reputation, especially if you have an expensive car and you are not a specialist. Well, if your friend is well known to you and you consider yourself a healer, well, try it yourself, if you’re not too lazy to get dirty or there’s no other way out. You need to start making a diagnosis calmly. Study the symptoms mentally.

First, does the starter turn? And if so, how cheerful? You already know the answer - remember what happened the first time you tried to start the car. If you don't remember, try again.

If the starter does not turn at all and does not even click the traction relay when the ignition is turned on, then it is either faulty, you can close the hood and follow the advice given above: Only in rare models can the starter power circuit be protected by a fuse - ampere or so - it is not difficult to find, especially if you know in advance where it is.

If the battery is to blame, then, as a rule, all electrical equipment does not work. The simplest and easiest case is that one of the terminals has come off or is dirty, but the battery is fine. Tighten the terminal fastenings on it and on the starter, if any. If it turns out that the battery is completely dead and you forgot to turn off the headlights at night, you can still leave.

But with outside help. Here, as they say, options are possible. You can try to start from a push, from a hill or from a tow. Don’t try to get around the pitfalls: You’ll have to light a cigarette at your neighbor’s. True, for some machines this can lead to damage to the computer; read the instructions for the machine.

If the starter is cool, but things are sluggish in the summer, in the winter this is a subject for a separate discussion, most likely the battery is almost completely discharged.

This will be visible by weak headlights or weak signal. In this case, the above options for outside assistance come into play. If the starter turns briskly, but the engine does not respond to attempts to start it, feel free to exclude everything related to the battery from further considerations.

Blame the ignition or fuel supply system, you can’t go wrong. When diagnosing and treating each of them, a systematic approach is required.

Top 10 reasons why your car won't start in cold weather

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Source: http://referentauto.ru/avto22/v-holod-ne-zavoditsya-toyota-corolla-1993.php

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