Replacing rear shock absorbers for Toyota Corolla Fielder at AvtoKulibin.ru
Required parts for the rear suspension of Toyota Corolla Fielder in the 121st body, required in case of replacement according to the Toyota catalog:
Required parts for the rear suspension of Toyota Corolla Fielder in the 121st body, required in case of replacement according to the Toyota catalog. Rear shock absorbers Tokico U298, Kayaba 341322 or 341420 (to be specified). Springs OBK 18552 (OBK 18552 HD-reinforced version). Bump stop with boot . To be honest, I didn’t have to change anything. The condition of the rear shock absorbers and springs turned out to be more than satisfactory. Considering the fact that the car was imported from Japan in 2008 and managed to survive 3 cold winters plus the condition of our roads. Although it was not without some difficulties. More on this later. I buy spare parts through online stores (exist, autodoc). You can actually save money. One minus - you have to wait. In Novosibirsk there is a large selection of spare parts at the Avtograd auto center.
So, open the trunk and remove everything unnecessary.
We remove the luggage compartment floor panels. We will need to get here
We take out the rivets. Some effort is required.
Unscrew the screws and remove the tool tray
Now you can carefully peel back the trim. At this point, we consider the preparatory stage to be over.
We see the following picture. The shock absorber is attached to the body at the top with 2 nuts and a bolt. The bolt is unscrewed from below above the wheel arch. The lower part is secured with a nut with a diameter of 19mm.
But before removing the wheel, you need to loosen the nut on the rod. Otherwise, you won’t be able to unscrew it later! You will need a 6 mm hexagon and a 17 mm socket wrench.
We put the car in handbrake, install the jack, and remove the rear wheel. For insurance, you can place a wooden log or bricks. If you are working on the ground, be sure to place a support under the jack - a steel sheet or some kind of strong board so that the ground does not press through.
Pre-spray the nuts and bolt with Unisma liquid wrench.
Using a 14 mm ratchet, unscrew 2 nuts and a bolt.
Place the jack as high as possible to make it easier to unscrew the nut. You will need a piece of pipe.
We remove the shock absorber.
We clean it from dirt. We install the ties. We tighten it evenly without distortions. And now about the problem. Screeds like mine turned out to be uncomfortable. The upper legs stick out strongly inward and touch the bump stop.
It's better to use these.
Or like this.
Now you can unscrew the top nut from the rod and disassemble the shock absorber.
We assess the condition.
After lowering, the rod should smoothly return upward. There should be no traces of oil or external damage. New shock absorber. The pumping technology is taken from the Kyb website. A twin-pipe shock absorber that is not pumped before installation is a common cause of failure of the shock absorber piston system. A. Turn the shock absorber over with the rod down and compress it smoothly, without jerking; B. Fix the shock absorber rod in this position for 2-3 seconds; B. While holding the rod, turn the shock absorber over with the rod up, fix the shock absorber in this position for 3-6 seconds; D. After keeping the shock absorber in a vertical position for the specified time, smoothly extend the rod to the end of the stroke; D. Turn the shock absorber over with the rod down, pause for 2-3 seconds. and repeat operations A, B, C, D 2-3 times; E. Having finished pumping the shock absorber, following the sequence, stop at point D; G. Holding the shock absorber vertically, with the rod up, perform a control operation (with sharp but short movements of the rod, make sure that the piston moves smoothly, without failures). In well-pumped shock absorbers, the piston moves smoothly without dips (please note that in some shock absorbers, when fully decompressed, the valve mechanism may enter the compensation cavity, designed to expand the shock-absorbing fluid when warmed up, and not provide any resistance). After pumping, the shock absorber should be in the working position, WITH THE ROD VERTICALLY UP, until it is completely installed on the vehicle.
We install a bump stop and a spring.
Make sure that the spring fits correctly into the groove.
We put on the top cup and tighten the nut.
We install the shock absorber on the car.
After installing the wheel, do not forget to tighten the nut on the rod.
Set of tools.
Cheap head and durable Force head.
And lastly... If something doesn't work out, take a break, rest and continue. There is nothing complicated in this work. The main thing is patience and having a quality tool.
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Source: http://www.avtokulibin.ru/zamena-zadnikh-amortizatorov-i-161.html
Replacing front suspension shock absorbers — logbook Toyota Corolla 2008 on DRIVE2
It turned out to be a good day and I decided to work on my favorite car... The leaking left shock absorber had been bothering me for a long time, and besides, the knocking noise when driving over bumps was really infuriating.
Diagnostics at the OD showed that there is no need to change anything except the shock absorbers! But I decided to replace the supports as well. I don’t want to go back there again if they knock.
So, the following were purchased: - 2 pieces of shock absorbers KYB 339700 - right and 339701 - left.
— 2 pcs of original TOYOTA front supports — 48609-12500.
shock absorbers
supports
I wanted to take all the originals, but I saw the inscription “KYB GAS FILLED” on my old racks. I have a very positive attitude towards the Kayaba brand and once again confirmed my opinion by the fact that Toyota puts them on their cars from the factory!
Replacement process:
First, we put the car on the handbrake, securing it by installing wheel chocks under the rear wheels. Loosen the wheel nuts and jack them up. Removing the wheel
First, unscrew the stabilizer link. The key is there at 17. Then we unscrew the bolt to the right of the shock absorber that holds the wire. Key for 14.
Well, all that remains is to unscrew the 2 large bolts that connect the hub to the strut. The key is 22.
sequence of unscrewing nuts
Everything is unscrewed from below, now we go under the hood. There are 3 more 14 nuts on the cup; they hold the support on which the shock absorber and spring hang. I didn't remove the plastic. So I crawled up. Everything unscrews easily.
3 nuts under the hood
We take out the rack assembly.
Who might need the number on the old racks: A0943-44329 KYB GAS FILLED
inscription on an old counter
This is what an arch looks like without a stand
This is what an arch looks like without a stand
We take the spring ties and tighten them. It is better to use short ties. I had long ones, they are not comfortable.
Retracted spring
Use a screwdriver to pry up the rubber plug on the support and get to the shock absorber nut
rubber plug on the support
Unscrew this nut. If it rotates together with the rod, then we clamp the stand in a vice by the metal plate. I don’t know what it’s called correctly))) you can see it in the photo
When the nut has already been unscrewed, remove everything from the rod. Be careful not to lose the spacer between the metal plate and the support. It protects the support bearing from dust.
dustproof pad
Here is the sequence: bump stop, boot, metal plate, gasket, support.
And here is my assistant, he was nearby all day)))
assistant
In the old strut, the rod no longer extends itself and there is practically no oil left. There is practically no difference in appearance.
Old and new
I did not buy a new set of boots, bump stops and other rubber elements. I used the old ones. I cleaned them of dirt and dust and lubricated them with silicone grease.
ready for reinstallation
Here is the support, the original one
Original support made in Japan
reverse side of the support
We assemble everything in reverse order. Don't forget to PUMP the shock absorber before installation! This is very important! Place the stand in a vertical position. Press the rod and lower it all the way. We wait until it comes out completely and repeat this procedure. I did it 10 times, just to be safe)))) AND IMPORTANT, before installing it on the car, do not place it on its side, i.e.
keep it in an upright position at all times. Place a rubber gasket on the stool under the bottom of the spring. Then, accordingly, the spring itself is in a compressed state. Then the bump stop, boot, metal plate, gasket and support. Tighten the nut and close with a rubber plug. We unscrew the spring ties and the stand is ready for installation on the car! Screw the support to the cup (3 nuts under the hood).
Then tighten the 2 hub bolts.
We put the stabilizer link in place. And screw the wire holder to the stand.
New stand in place
Replace the wheel and one side is ready!
Voila. On the other hand, we repeat everything the same.
PS When replacing shock absorbers, it is better to immediately replace the stabilizer struts. Because on my right everything was unscrewed well, but on the left the hexagon turned. Although the stand itself is still good, the nut can no longer be tightened properly, so I had to change it.
I hope my report will be useful and help someone)))))
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Price tag: 10,000 ₽ Mileage 123,000 km
Source: https://www.drive2.com/l/4507769/
Strengthening the suspension and increasing the ground clearance of the 100th Corolla
Let's take the following as a given - the standard suspension of gasoline non-all-wheel drive Corollas is only suitable for moving on smooth asphalt with a load of 1-2 people.
If you drive on ideal roads, then you are lucky, or you are not in Russia. The rest can either drive on our off-road terrain, peeling off the bottom and tearing off the muffler, or adapt the car to our conditions - “lift” it and drive quietly.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IO9jnNZ1QMc
When describing the “lifting” process, we will call the entire model range Corolla: Corolla-Sprinter-Levin-Trueno-Ceres-Marino.
That is, everything said below will fit any of these cars in any body (AE100, AE101, EE106, etc.), with the only amendment that we will not put springs on a rack-mounted car and vice versa. In addition, this may work and on younger models - in 110 bodies, etc.
You should also understand that we are talking about standard parts, that is, if we take a rack from Levin with 4A-GE, then we take a stock rack, and not a sports Belstein.
To strengthen the suspension and “lift” the car you need:
- powerful racks;
- other springs;
- spacers between the body and the rack;
- "tuning" of springs (for cargo station wagons).
The main idea of this article is that you need to do everything in a comprehensive manner, and not limit yourself to the banal replacement of struts or springs.
And immediately throw out of your head the thoughts of rubber inserts between the coils of springs (or, even worse, between the spring and the cup), as well as the crazy idea of overcooking the cups on the stand.
Everything described here does not change the suspension geometry much and is a reasonable combination of safety, comfort and reliability. Remember, you are responsible for the results of your actions, and therefore for your safety.
Front suspension
We take the front struts and springs from a Corolla in the 104 (4WD) body, from a diesel Corolla, or from a Corolla with a 4A-GE engine. The distinctive features of these racks are that they are collapsible and have a rod with a diameter of 22 mm (versus 20 for standard ones).
The springs on these machines are different, but in any case they have a larger rod diameter and an increased number of turns, so you can install any of them.
Comparison of the stock strut (left) and the strut from the 4WD model (right).
Unfortunately, these racks can be quite difficult to find. In this case, you can use the racks from the Corona-Karina-Kaldina in the 190 body.
If you buy a “contract” stand from the crown (assembled kit), you will have to throw away its spring and upper cup - they will not suit us.
The front strut from the crown differs from the Corolla ONLY in the brake hose mounting bracket.
To remake the fastening, it is necessary to cut off part of the bracket and attach an adapter plate to the remaining part.
The following photographs show the strut from the crown before and after reworking the brake hose fastening:
ATTENTION!!! When using a crown post, there are two things to consider.
First. If you don't cut off part of the brake hose mount on the strut, the mount may touch the brake hose mount on the body (and worse, the brake hose itself), see right photo. Be sure to shorten the crown bracket!
Second. Powerful struts (both from the Corolla and from the Crown) have a slightly different cup shape for the spring. As a result, if strut-to-body spacers thicker than 18mm are used, the strut cup and brake hose mount on the body may touch (see left photo).
To avoid this, you need to either bend the fastening on the body (just be careful - it is welded and can come off), or reduce the thickness of the spacer.
In any case, no matter what kind of rack is used, after completing all the work, make sure that when turning the steering wheel all the way, the elements of the rack do not touch body parts and brake hoses.
Moreover, this must be observed both on a fully suspended rack and on a completely “crushed” one (press with a jack under the hub).
I wouldn’t use crown springs at the front - when uncompressed, they are much longer than Corolla springs and the rod is thicker. The front with such springs will become ultra-stiff, which is good only for racers and perverts
The final touch to the “tuning” of the front suspension is the installation of spacers between the body and the strut.
The maximum thickness of spacers is 20 mm. If you do more, the right actuator may touch the lever, and the left one may hang out at a greater angle. In addition, the wheel camber will change unacceptably.
There are two types of spacers. The first is the so-called. “soldiers” are cylinders that are screwed onto the standard studs of the rack and have their own stud at the opposite end.
This option is bad because dirt from under the wheels will get into the voids between the pillar, body and soldiers.
Dirt will end up in the engine bay or interior and can cause corrosion. Notice how rusty the nut on the stem is and how much dirt is on the soldiers and the cup.
On the left is a stand with “soldiers”, on the right – without.
Please note that if the cylinders are too small in diameter, they will simply bend the metal of the body. It seems to me that the “correct” diameter is 30 mm.
The second type of spacers are “washers”. They can be made from metal, caprolon, conveyor belt, etc. The main thing is that it is durable. I myself spent three years using spacers made of five layers of thin conveyor belt until I found metal ones.
If “washers” are used, it is necessary to replace the strut studs with longer ones. Replacement is only possible with the top cup removed. The old ones are knocked out with a hammer and new ones are pressed in their place. With the same hammer
The best option is to use aluminum spacers manufactured for cans. They fit perfectly into the mounting holes. The only thing that may not fit together is the protrusion of the upper cup of the strut and the inner hole of the spacer.
Be sure to make sure that the spacer lies flat on the stand cup and does not “hang” on the protrusion of the cup. If necessary, fine-tune with a file.
By the way, TAZ spacers come complete with extended studs. The only thing I was kidding about is that the piece of paper says 18 mm, but in reality the spacers are 16 mm thick. Be vigilant
Pelvic spacers that fit the Corolla after finishing with a file.
At the end of the work, be sure to check the tightness of all bolts and nuts, to ensure that there are no abnormal contacts with the rack and other parts.
And lastly, it is necessary to adjust the wheel alignment on the stand.
Rear suspension (struts)
It is best to take the rear pillars from a Levin-Ceres-Corolla with a 4A-GE engine. These are powerful racks with a thick stem. There is no mount for the brake hose on the Levin-Ceres struts. In this case, the hose can be secured with a clamp. I had these until I ran out.
When I was looking for “new” rear struts, in normal condition I came across only struts from a Corolla in the 110 body. I stopped there.
The rear springs from a Corolla with a 5A-FE engine (either in the 100th body or in the 110th) are just a song. You can squeeze and unclench them like an accordion - they are so flimsy. Therefore, we silently scrap them and go looking for the “correct” springs.
In general, of the normal rear Corolla springs, I have seen only one - from an all-wheel drive station wagon. From which - HZ. I couldn’t get a clear answer from the seller, and there was only one spring for the whole city
On the rear I installed springs from a diesel crown. In addition to the thickness of the rod and the number of turns, they differ from the Corolla ones in their height and lower landing diameter. Even stronger springs are from an all-wheel drive Kaldina (I haven’t tried it, but they look “right”):
Springs, from left to right: Kaldina - diesel Karina - Corolla.
One glance is enough to understand that the rear Corolla springs are complete crap, suitable only for strollers.
As I already wrote, “correct” springs differ from Corolla springs in their lower seat diameter. This diameter is smaller than the “native” one by about a centimeter.
However, even if you do nothing, the spring in the assembled strut will not dangle around the cup - this has been tested in practice (my colleague rode like this for about a year, I myself did the same). The photo shows the difference in diameters.
Stand assembled. When assembling, pay attention to the anthers. To begin with, they must exist. And be whole. The same applies to the front suspension, although I can hardly imagine what needs to be done to kill the front anthers
When you remove the old strut, it may happen that the brake hose is routed through the hole in the “ear” of the strut.
You will have to saw the ear (well, or unscrew the hose from the caliper, which is not necessary). The same cut must be made on the “new” stand. In the previous photo, the prepared “ear” is located at the bottom left.
Everything that is written about the front ones is true for the rear spacers. The exception is their thickness. Minimum thickness - 30 mm. Maximum - I don’t know, you need to look. I have 30 mm, I want another centimeter, but no more.
This is what you get after assembly:
Raised Corolla AE100.
Click on the image to view full size.
At first glance, the car is like a car. But on it (and even loaded and on standard tires) you can safely go where all the holes have already been collected by the bottoms of other cars
The rise in the center of gravity is insignificant, and it is partly compensated by the stiffness of the suspension. Therefore, you can just as before tumble along a good road.
Rear leaf spring suspension
Springs are a cool thing. If you do not use the cargo station wagon for its intended purpose, then the springs are almost eternal.
However, in life this does not work out and over time the springs “straighten out”. I once got a station wagon with dead (almost straight) springs.
There are three options for getting out of the situation - buying springs from 4WD station wagons (they have more sheets), “repairing” old springs, or lengthening the earrings.
Taking into account the high cost of both new and used springs, it makes direct sense to start “repairing” the old ones.
The springs are given to the blacksmith, for example, in a taxi depot (there he knows exactly what needs to be done - fortunately, all taxis used to have springs). Of course, there is a risk that Uncle Vasya will completely kill your springs, so here you need to “look at their faces.”
Bending the springs is half the battle. If you put them back as is, sooner or later they will “release”. Therefore, it is necessary to add an additional leaf to the spring package. A blacksmith at a taxi company can do this too.
Spring with additional leaf.
Click on the image to view full size.
The tuning spring will become stiffer and the car will rise. The main thing is that the blacksmith does not overdo it with the bend, otherwise he may wrap the earring.
This is what I got (not everything was as scary as in this photo - it’s just that the rear wheel is hanging out here, that’s why the climb seems so brutal):
Spring with additional leaf.
It is probably possible to lengthen earrings (and many people do this), however, you need to be able to make a reliable design. In addition, the springs will remain “dead” and will continue to bend.
================================================== ===
Postscript . This article is written to share experiences, but is not a call to action.
Remember that any intervention by playful hands in a Japanese unit could potentially turn into a disaster.
Before you do anything, consider whether you will be able to provide the same level of safety when the work is completed.
Source: https://corolla.ws/forum/showthread.php?t=17399
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DIY Toyota Corolla suspension repair video
Every car owner should know that from time to time there is a need to repair the car's chassis. You can repair the rear or front suspension of a Toyota Corolla in a garage, following special instructions and using certain tools for the job. We will tell you how to do this correctly in this material.
The condition of the vehicle's chassis determines how the car will handle the road, pass over broken surfaces and absorb all kinds of unevenness.
As is the case with any other car, after a certain mileage, the Toyota Corolla will require repairs to the front or rear suspension. You can understand this by the characteristic knocking sound in the chassis.
Rubber elements that have a service life are usually the first to wear out.
to contents ↑
Features of the Corolla chassis
The suspension of a Japanese car supplied to the Russian market has increased ground clearance. The automaker focuses on poor road conditions in Russia and creates cars that are most suitable for use.
Suspension device
The Toyota Corolla's chassis may seem quite rigid, but it is very ergonomic. Stabilizers, for example, often have a mileage of up to 70-90 thousand kilometers or more.
They can be changed quite easily, but this requires some knowledge and skills. The manufacturer has taken care of the simplicity of the design, so even a person far from car repair can understand it.
Toyota Corolla suspension ball joints can withstand over 150 thousand kilometers.
Most often, stabilizer bushings and silent blocks fail. According to the automaker's regulations, they should be changed every 70-90 thousand kilometers. Motorists driving at high speeds may decide at 140-150 km/h that their suspension is faulty. In fact, the occurrence of soft knocking noises at such speeds is normal.
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Suspension problems and their solutions
Unscrewed silent block bolt
Repairing the Toyota Corolla suspension is not a very difficult job, so you can do it yourself if you wish. In some cases, silent blocks begin to knock quite soon.
You can solve the problem yourself or by contacting a specialist and paying him some money.
We will tell you about the process of replacing it with your own hands using the example of the rear silent block of the lower arm in the front suspension of a Toyota Corolla.
To begin, lift the car and support it, and then remove the wheel from the side from which you hear a knock or visually see wear on the silent block. After this, unscrew the two nuts and one bolt that holds the lower ball joint arm. To do this you will need a 17mm socket with a strong collar.
Next, we unscrew the long bolt of the front silent block using a 19mm socket and slightly loosen the two bolts and the nut that secure the rear silent block and the transverse link of the Toyota Corolla suspension.
After this, the lever must be pulled out and removed. This is not difficult to do - when you find yourself under the car, everything will become clear to you. After releasing the lever, place it on a pipe of a suitable diameter or attach an appropriate bushing to it. Then carefully knock the rubber element out of its seat.
Knocking out the silent block
After making room for the silent block, it must be thoroughly cleaned and lubricated. You also need to lubricate the inside of the rubber band, which is intended for this Corolla suspension unit. Place the element inside and carefully hammer it in using a pipe and a hammer.
After this, you can begin reassembling the parts. As you can see, there is nothing difficult in repairing the chassis of a Toyota Corolla with your own hands.
It’s better to always change silent blocks in pairs - they are not very expensive, so you won’t spend a lot of money, but have some free time.
It is important to note that the situation cannot be brought to a critical state, otherwise the metal parts will begin to rub and wear out. If you do not have the time or desire to repair the Corolla suspension yourself, contact a service center, but be prepared to pay a tidy sum for the work.
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About Corolla suspension maintenance
The chassis of a Japanese car is quite simple to maintain. All auto stores have the necessary spare parts, which are inexpensive and easy to change.
If you wish, you can replace the springs or stabilizers yourself - this is even easier than changing silent blocks. You can also replace the ball joints or tie rods if they also begin to knock over time.
Thus, when buying a Japanese Toyota Corolla, you can be sure of the reliability and ease of maintenance of this vehicle.
to contents ↑
Toyota chassis repair video
Video:
Video: For beginners in the auto business. How to diagnose the front suspension of a car yourself.
Video: TOYOTA KOROLLA 4WD rear suspension repair
Video: How to change stabilizer bushings on a Toyota Corolla #GarageLife
Source: http://Driving24.ru/kak-otremontirovat-xodovuyu-tojoty-korolly/
Replacing the rear suspension shock absorber for Toyota Corolla / Verso from 2004
4.4.2. Removing, checking and installing the rear suspension shock absorber strut
Removing the rear coil spring shock absorber
Raise the rear axle beam with a jack. To avoid damage to the rear axle beam, install a wooden block between the jack and the beam (Fig. 4.35).
Remove the 2 nuts from the top side of the rear shock absorber and spring assembly.
Pull down the bolt from the top of the rear shock absorber with a coil spring (Fig. 4.36).
Unscrew the nut and remove the bushing washer from the rear shock absorber with spring assembly (bottom) (Fig. 4.37).
Carefully lower the jack and remove the rear shock absorber and coil spring assembly.
Disassembling the rear left shock absorber assembly
Holding the shock absorber rod with a hexagon (6 mm), loosen the nut with a spanner wrench (Fig. 4.38).
Install the SST on the coil spring so that the upper and lower hooks are spread apart as wide as possible (Fig. 4.39).
Compress the spring to relieve the load on the nut.
Unscrew the nut.
Remove washer No. 1 and the rear shock absorber support, the left rear suspension strut support, the upper rear spring cushion and the compression buffer No. 1 of the rear suspension (Fig. 4.40).
Remove the spring from the shock absorber and then remove the SST.
Checking the rear left shock absorber assembly
Push the shock absorber rod in and out and check for excessive resistance or abnormal noise. In case of unsatisfactory performance, replace the shock absorber assembly with a new one (Fig. 4.41).
Installing the rear left shock absorber assembly
Compress the spring using SST (Fig. 4.42).
Insert the lower end of the spring into the recess in the lower spring cup (Fig. 4.43).
Install the rear spring upper pad onto the rear suspension strut support.
Install the rear suspension strut compression buffer No. 1, rear suspension strut support and washer No. 1.
Install washer No. 1 with the concave part facing up.
Hold the shock absorber rod with a hexagon (6 mm) and tighten the nut.
Tightening torque: 56 Nm.
Loosen SST and remove it from the spring.
Installing a rear coil spring shock absorber
Install the rear shock absorber with a coil spring onto the rear axle beam. Install the shock absorber bushing washer and tighten the nut.
Carefully lifting the rear axle beam with a jack, install the upper part of the rear shock absorber with the spring into the seat on the car body. To prevent damage to the rear axle beam, place a wooden block between the jack and the beam.
Securely insert the rear suspension strut support studs into the holes in the vehicle body.
Tighten the bolt and 2 nuts securing the upper part of the rear coil spring shock absorber.
Tightening torque: bolt: 55 Nm, nut: 80 Nm.
Install the rear wheel.
Tightening torque: 103 Nm.
After lowering the jack, rock the car several times, pressing on the body so that the suspension parts take a constant position.
Tighten the rear coil spring shock absorber lower nut.
Tightening torque: 80 Nm.
Source: http://carmn.ru/toyota/corolla-verso/4-4-2-snyatie-proverka-i-ustanovka-amortizatornojj-stojjki-zadnejj-podveski.html
Replacing Toyota front struts
Details Published: 05/13/2011 14:56 Author: Admin SuccessfulAuto.ru Views: 18273
Over time, in any car you have to deal with such a problem as replacing struts. Although the quality of foreign cars is much higher than what we are used to being satisfied with in our Russian cars, they also sometimes need to be repaired.
Recommendations for replacing the front struts on a Toyota car of any model (Toyota):
- make sure the Toyota car is set to the handbrake
- be careful and careful when removing the spring
- After replacement, thoroughly tighten all bolts and nuts
- Also, after replacement, you need to bleed the brakes
The safety of people depends on all these procedures.
Sequence of replacing front struts on a Toyota
:
First, loosen the center mount of the front strut
loosen the nuts that secure the Toyota wheel
lifting a Toyota car with a jack
it's time to remove the wheel
After removing the wheel, unscrew the brake hose fastener
dismantle the ABS sensors so as not to damage its working condition during the following operations
Next, unscrew the stabilizer mount
unscrew the 2 lower rack mounting bolts
unscrew the three bolt connections of the upper rack mounting
We dismantle the strut along with the spring
We tighten the spring using a special device for tightening springs
unscrew the center bolt of the strut
we disassemble the strut and spring
We install the strut and spring with new parts in the reverse order of disassembly
set marks on the upper cups and springs, a mark on the strut mounting bolt, and a mark on the lower fastening along one vertical axis. We make marks as in this photo
Next, you should tighten the bolt of the central rack mounting
re-perform a visual inspection of the correctness of the installed marks
Now we are decompressing the Toyota spring
We install the assembled rack into the structure of the car, the indicated mark on the bolted connection should be as in the photo, the rack should be installed in exactly the same position
tighten the two bolts of the upper fastening of the Toyota front strut that remain
tighten the lower rack mount
we fix the Toyota stabilizer in its place
install the ABS sensors as they were
tighten the brake hose
tighten the lower bolts of the rack mounting
put the wheel in place and tighten the bolts
tighten the wheel bolts
remove the jack, lower the Toyota car
we carry out thorough wheel broaching
We also thoroughly tighten the central bolt of the strut
After replacing old struts on a Toyota with new front struts, you should bleed the brake system.
interesting materials: Replacing spark plugs for VAZ 2106, Replacing rear silent blocks for Audi 80, Toyota airbags, Lexus all models, Toyota Prius hybrid
Source: http://SuccessfulAuto.ru/inomarki/toyota2/236-replacing-the-front-struts-toyota.html
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