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Backlight for Toyota Corolla: car improvement and problem solving

Operating instructions for Toyota Corolla from 2013 Lighting control

The head lighting can be controlled either manually or automatically.

Type A

1.

Turn on daytime running lights. 2. Turn on the front side and rear lights, license plate lights and instrument panel lights. H. Turn on the headlights and all the above-mentioned lighting devices.

Type B

1.

Automatically turns on and off the headlights, daytime running lights and all lights (when the engine switch is set to the "ON" position - vehicles without an intelligent system and keyless entry - or the "IGNITION ON" mode - vehicles with an intelligent system and keyless entry). 2. Turn on the front side and rear lights, license plate lights and instrument panel lights. 3. Turn on the headlights and all the above-mentioned lighting devices. 4. Turn on daytime running lights.

Turning on the high beam headlights

1.

To switch to high beam when low beam is on, move the lever away from you. To turn off the high beam, move the lever to the middle position towards you.

2. To signal by briefly turning on the high beams, pull the lever towards you and release it. You can signal with high beam headlights both with the headlights on and off.

Manual headlight height control (if equipped)

The height of the headlights can be adjusted depending on the number of passengers and vehicle load.

Recommendations for setting up the controller

Number of passengers and luggage compartment loading Regulator position
Passengers Loading the luggage compartment
Driver No
Driver and front passenger No
All seats occupied No 1,5
All seats occupied Fully loaded luggage compartment 3
Driver Fully loaded luggage compartment 4

“Walking home” system (if available)

When this system operates, the headlights and taillights turn on for 30 seconds when the engine switch is set to the LOCK position (vehicles without Smart Entry System) or OFF position (vehicles with Smart Entry System).

Pull the lever toward you and release it when the light switch is in the "AUTO" or "O" position after the engine switch is in the "LOCK" position (vehicles without smart entry and start system) or off position (vehicles with smart start system). entry and start).

To turn off the lights, pull the lever towards you and release it.

Daytime running light system

To make the vehicle more visible to other drivers, the front marker lights (increased brightness) automatically turn on when the engine is started and the parking brake is released. Daytime running lights are not intended for use at night.

Light control sensor (if equipped)

The sensor will not operate properly if it is covered by an object or if there is any label stuck to the windshield that obstructs the sensor's operation. This prevents the sensor from monitoring the light level and may cause the automatic headlight control system to malfunction.

Automatic light switching system

– When the light switch is in the headlight position and the fog lights turn off after the engine switch is set to the LOCK position (vehicles without smart entry system) or OFF position (vehicles with smart entry system).

– When the light switch is in the “AUTO” position, the lights turn off when the engine switch is set to the “LOCK” position (vehicles without smart entry system) or OFF position (vehicles with smart entry system).

The headlights and fog lights turn off when the engine switch is set to the LOCK position (vehicles without smart entry/start system) or OFF position (vehicles with smart entry/start system).

To turn the headlights back on, turn the engine switch to the ON position (vehicles without smart entry and start) or IGNITION ON (vehicles with smart entry and start), or turn the light switch off and then turn it to;

Sound reminder for headlights on

Cars without smart system and keyless entry

The signal sounds if, with the lights on, the engine switch is moved to the “LOCK” position and the driver’s door is opened.

Cars with intelligent system and keyless entry

The alarm sounds when the engine switch is turned off while the lights are on and the driver's door is opened.

Fog light/rear fog light switch

The fog lights/rear fog light provide excellent visibility in difficult road conditions such as driving in rain or fog.

Front fog light switch

1.

The fog lights and rear fog lights are off. 2. Fog lights are on.

Rear fog lamp switch

1.

The rear fog lights are off. 2. Rear fog lights are on.

When the switch ring is released, it returns to the position. Repeated use of the switch ring turns off only the rear fog lights.

Fog light/rear fog light switch

1.

The fog lights and rear fog lights are off. 2. Fog lights are on. 3. Fog lights and rear fog light are on.

When the switch ring is released it returns to position. Repeated use of the switch ring turns off the rear fog lights only.

Note: Fog lights and rear fog lights can be used in the following cases, – Vehicles with a fog light and rear fog light switch: a) fog lights - headlights or front side lights are on; b) rear fog lights - the fog lights are on.

– Vehicles with a rear fog lamp switch: the headlights or front parking lamps are switched on.

6

Source: http://monolith.in.ua/osveshhenie-toyota-corolla-2013/

Updated Toyota Corolla: answering questions

The company presented the restyled eleventh generation Toyota Corolla at the perfect time: this year the model celebrates its 50th anniversary! During this time, this famous car became the most popular model in the history of Toyota and set several records.

In 2005, it was the first in the history of the automobile industry to cross the mark of 30 million units sold; in 2011, for the first time, it entered the Guinness Book of Records for the number of cars produced (then there were already 37 million), and for several years in a row it held and continues to hold the title of the best-selling car in the world. ...

Now “Corolla” probably has the most predatory and expressive “face” in its history. All due to new narrow headlights and a different front bumper.

Today there are already more than 43 million Corollas in the world! True, Russia got only a drop from this sea of ​​cars: only 685,000 of them run on our roads. But this did not prevent this model from becoming the most popular (according to Avtostat) foreign car in Russia, ahead of both the Ford Focus (671,000 cars) and the Renault Logan (577,000 units).

No doubt, the numbers are interesting. But we were no less interested in practical aspects. Namely, what has changed in the restyled Corolla and what can Russian buyers expect from the new product? So let's move on to answering questions from our readers.             

What will the ground clearance be?

As part of the adaptation for Russia, the restyled Corolla has increased ground clearance - from European 135 to 150 mm. Along with the suspension “lift,” the characteristics of the springs and shock absorbers have also been changed. By the way, the company calls the suspension settings comfortable, so if the travel of the lifted suspension is lengthened, we can hope that the Corolla will better “digest” our roads.

At the rear there are new LED lights. Plus there will be a “shark fin” antenna. Toyota also says that the gaps between the body panels of the updated Corolla are 4 mm versus 5 mm for its main competitors.

Along the way, a windshield washer reservoir with a volume increased to 4.5 liters and a low level washer fluid sensor, as well as a heated windshield in the “parking” area of ​​the windshield wipers, are installed to suit our climate.

Will sound insulation improve?

Yes, the updated Corolla has enhanced sound insulation of the engine shield, wheel arches and doors.

Where will the assembly take place?

Like the “pre-reform” car, the updated Corolla will be delivered to our country, Russia, from the Toyota plant in Turkey (Adapazari city, Sakarya province). Assembly in Russia is not planned yet.

The dashboard, center console and ventilation deflectors are new. The materials have become better (there are soft cushions on the doors, pliable plastic on the panels), piano lacquer, matte chrome and stitching on the lower part of the instrument panel have been added to the trim. The key blocks on the steering wheel have changed and heating has appeared for the first time. A light cream interior option is also available.

Will there be deliveries of cars in hatchback or station wagon bodies?

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Alas, the “international” version of Corolla with the E170 index (for Europe, the USA, Russia, China, India and a number of Asian countries) will be delivered to us only as a sedan.

At the same time, the Corolla is available in both a station wagon and a hatchback, but they are offered in a very small number of markets. “Sheds,” for example, are sold in Japan and New Zealand.

And the hatch, besides New Zealand, can be bought in Australia.

Who is the typical buyer for the updated Corolla?

Toyota sees the main buyer of the updated Corolla as both single and married men 25-25 years old who live in the city, “move between ready-made infrastructure and who do not need a crossover,” the company says.  

Will there be a new crossover C-HR in Russia?

The new coupe-like crossover C-HR, competing with the Mazda CX-3 and also produced in Turkey, will begin selling in Europe at the end of this year. But the issue of its supply in Russia has not yet been considered. Just as we shouldn’t be expecting a recently updated Fortuner SUV on the Hilux pickup chassis in the near future.

The instrument panel of expensive configurations is completely new, much more convenient and clearer. Instead of three “wells” there are now two, the font of the numbers and its location have been changed, and a 4.2-inch color screen has been introduced. In basic versions, the scale is simpler and has a monochrome screen.

However, there is good news: the Russian office of Toyota continues to seriously study the possibility of supplying the legendary Land Cruiser 70 SUV to our country! Although the Toytovites have not yet shared the specifics (how, when and for how much?).           

How many configuration options will there be and what will they include?

At the presentation, the Toyota team did not disclose the full list of equipment, but they described in detail what new items will appear in the equipment list. Thus, it was stated that the updated Corolla was the first in this car segment to receive low-beam and high-beam headlights with LEDs.

In addition, after restyling, the Corolla acquired a heated steering wheel, keyless access to the interior with touch-sensitive keys on the door handles, as well as push-button engine start.

The list of equipment will also include 2-zone climate control, automatic mode for all four windows, heated mirrors and front seats.

However, it has not yet been announced which configurations these “benefits of civilization” will be available from.

The Toyota Touch 2 multimedia system (pictured) with a 7-inch screen and a glass front panel has appeared on the list of options.

All the buttons are touch sensitive, but you can’t press them by touch—you have to move your gaze while selecting a key. The control unit for 2-zone climate control is also completely new.

In simpler versions there is a regular air conditioner controlled by simple “twisters”. Yes, and multimedia is also simpler, on buttons.    

Unfortunately, a number of questions were left behind the scenes at the presentation.

What price tags, engines, gearboxes, configurations and “bells and whistles” in terms of automatic systems will the updated Corolla get? Will pre-restyling cars become cheaper? Judging by the photo of the interior and some details of the press release, the restyled car will retain a 6-speed manual transmission and a CVT. But Toytovites promise to answer these and other questions before the start of sales, which should open before the end of summer.   

In the meantime, the pre-restyling Corolla is offered in Russia with two naturally aspirated gasoline engines. The base 1.3-liter unit produces 99 hp. and is combined with a 6-speed manual transmission (from 891,000 rubles). The 1.6 liter engine develops 122 hp.

and is offered both with the same “mechanics” (base prices - from 1,026,000 to 1,141,000 rubles) and with a CVT variator (from 1,063,000 to 1,178,000 rubles). But the 1.8-liter engine produces 140 hp. paired with a CVT has already disappeared from the official Russian website of Toyota.

And it is unclear whether he will return with an updated car.  

And this is the very first Toyota Corolla (E10), which began production in November 1966.

Source: http://auto.vesti.ru/news/show/news_id/661363/

Help connect Autosvet-Mini Toyota Corolla ae110 – Forum

Help connect Autosvet-Mini Toyota Corolla ae110
lionzhuk Date: Friday, 21.10.2016, 22:12 | Message #1
PrivateGroup: UsersMessages:Reputation: Status: Offline If you can tell me how to connect, I’m attaching a diagram, I first bought it and then found a diagram for connecting the headlights) The problem is primarily that the high and low beams in one bulb have a common “+”, but are switched by “-” ( as I understand from the diagram). Attachments: 1310942.jpg (613.7 Kb) Post edited by lionzhuk - Friday, 10/21/2016, 22:15
novlift Date: Friday, 21.10.2016, 22:24 | Message #2
Major GeneralGroup: AdministratorsMessages:Reputation: 5 Status: Offline Quote lionzhuk ()200?'200px':''+(this.scrollHeight+5)+'px');>If you can tell me how to connect, I am attaching a diagram, I first bought it, and then found a diagram for connecting the headlights) The first problem The problem is that the high and low beams in one bulb have a common “+”, and are switched by “-” (as I understood from the diagram). And again, the Japanese woman has always amazed me with her skill in wiring headlights as she wants. To the point : Yes, you are right, it will be a little difficult to connect. You won’t be able to use high beams as full-intensity DRLs without modifications. Will fog lights be used as DRLs or external LED DRLs? Or would you still like to have long-range DRLs? (then there are 2 options).
lionzhuk Date: Friday, 21.10.2016, 22:44 | Message #3
PrivateGroup: UsersMessages:Reputation: Status: Offline Thank you for quick answer. I’ll do high beams as DRLs) I myself don’t have a bad understanding of electrical circuits, but I specialize in power ones)) I’ve been the chief power engineer for more than 8 years)), but I rarely have to worry about such a small thing, so if there are interesting thoughts and options, I’ll be grateful, in my opinion I'll be sure to share the results)
novlift Date: Friday, 21.10.2016, 22:56 | Message #4
Major GeneralGroup: AdministratorsMessages:Reputation: 5 Status: Offline Quote from lionzhuk ()Thank you for your prompt response. I will do high beams as DRLs) I don’t understand much about electrical circuits myself, but I specialize in power ones)) I’ve been chief power engineer for more than 8 years)), but I rarely have to worry about such a small thing, so if they interesting thoughts and options, I will be grateful, in turn, I will definitely share the result) We’ll draw diagrams and post them a little later.
lionzhuk Date: Sunday, 23.10.2016, 15:02 | Message #5
PrivateGroup: UsersMessages:Reputation: Status: Offline Good afternoon. So far I have come up with this circuit. The main idea is to keep the headlight switch on low beam constantly, - break the power supply circuit of the headlight relay, - organize the power supply of the headlight relay using the blue cable from your relay, when power is supplied from the blue cable, the system should return to normal state, - when power is supplied via the white cable, the headlights will light up from it, - additionally install a 5-pin relay, in daytime mode it will transfer the control minus from the low-beam headlight to the high-beam headlight, in night mode it will restore the standard circuit-dimensions will be powered from the cable size of your relay. Your verdict?) I found an error in my circuit, only one headlight will work normally, it can be easily corrected by transferring the break in the circuit before branching to the right and left headlights. Attachments: 9869822.png (1.74 Mb) Post edited by lionzhuk – Sunday, 23.10.2016, 22:55
novlift Date: Monday, 24.10.2016, 08:20 | Message #6
Major GeneralGroup: AdministratorsMessages:Reputation: 5 Status: Offline Quote lionzhuk () Good afternoon. So far I have come up with this circuit. The main meaning is to constantly switch the headlights to low beam, - break the power supply circuit of the headlight relay, - organize the power supply of the headlight relay using the blue cable from your relay, when supplying power from the blue cable, the system should return to its normal state, - when power is supplied via the white cable, the headlights will light up from it, - additionally install a 5-pin relay, in daytime mode it will transfer the control minus from the low-beam headlight to the high-beam headlight, in night mode it will restore standard circuit - dimensions will be powered from the cable of the dimensions of your relay. Your verdict?) Here the circuit will work with the full functionality of both standard switches and AUTOSVET-MINI in full functionality. Only 2 relays, it seems that the circuit is complicated at first glance, but everything is very simple, we reverse the polarity of the lamps and that’s it. Don’t fly, do this and forget about all the problems. And programming will be available. from the car.Detailed versionGeneral viewAttachments: 4583151.png(418.4 Kb) · 6766629.png(278.4 Kb)
lionzhuk Date: Monday, 24.10.2016, 21:59 | Message #7
PrivateGroup: UsersMessages:Reputation: Status: Offline Thank you, it’s a really great option) I’ll write when and how I implement it) Posted (10/24/2016, 09:59 pm)————————————————Good evening. I’m laying out for your consideration a slightly modified diagram, the basis for revision and result: 1. Local switching points, only near the headlights2. Do not climb inside the mounting block3. I had to connect the existing fuses in parallel, there were 1 piece per headlight, 10A each, because now both headlights will be powered in parallel, connect the fuses in parallel, split the current so as not to immerse the tracks in the mounting block Attachments: 5138565.png (435.0 Kb) Post edited by lionzhuk – Monday , 10.24.2016, 22:03
lionzhuk Date: Tuesday, 25.10.2016, 08:37 | Message #8
PrivateGroup: UsersMessages:Reputation: Status: Offline Thoughts haunt me) in the scheme you proposed there is no way to switch to high beam in the “auto night” mode; in reality, when driving at night, you will have to constantly switch to the “manual” mode, but you don’t want this) The diagram on the 1st relay, like I calculated (I could have been wrong) everything will work, except for the ability to turn on the headlights without low beams, without this I will survive)) Check the logic of turning off the controller, they are in no mode but will not consider that it needs to turn off? Attachments: 0170053.png( 169.8 Kb)
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Source: http://www.elzam.ru/forum/19-129-1

Tuning the Toyota Corolla dashboard: a combination of originality and convenience

Often, owners of a Toyota Corolla want to make changes to the interior design in order to make the interior original. The most common instrument panel tuning in this area. And this is not without reason, because the standard dull yellow backlight color is not very pleasing to the driver’s eye.

Required materials and tools

Refinement of the Toyota Corolla dashboard, as a rule, consists of replacing the lighting elements. For this, you can use both single LED diodes and ready-made LED strips.

In the latter case, the installation of new elements is greatly simplified, however, the use of individual LEDs will allow you to create lighting in several colors at different functional points of the dashboard.

Of the necessary materials for the work you will need:

• Sealed self-adhesive LED strip of the required glow color, designed for an operating voltage of 12 V. Its length should be about 50 cm (with a margin), since there are 60 LEDs per linear meter of the product, and only 22-25 pieces will be needed.

• 30 LEDs of type 3528 for the speedometer and tachometer scales, 15 LEDs of type 3216 for backlighting the screens (when replacing the backlight with individual elements).

The given number of elements is indicated with a reserve, since during their installation not all diodes can remain operational due to possible overheating.

When choosing LEDs, you should pay attention to the brightness of their glow. You need to buy only super-bright models.

• Tin-lead solder and flux for soldering, or rosin.

To perform the work you need the following tool:

• A Phillips screwdriver, or best of all, a set of them.

• A set of shaped screwdrivers in the shape of a six-pointed star.

• Stationary soldering station, or, worse, an ordinary soldering iron.

Disassembling the dashboard

First you need to remove the dashboard. To do this, disconnect the decorative strips near the radio and the silver trim on the left side of the case. These elements are fastened with latches, so to remove them you need to carefully pry them off with a screwdriver and pull them towards you with a certain force.

Then the visor is disconnected in the same way. It is held on by clips, which are easiest to catch from the bottom. Under no circumstances should you press on the glass, as it may crack.

You need to unscrew two screws from the top of the case using a Phillips screwdriver. In this case, it is important to remove the sealing rubber bands, the location of which is marked with yellow arrows.

Then you can remove the shield by pressing the special button on its back side. The back cover of the panel is disassembled by unscrewing the eight screws indicated by arrows. Here you will need shaped screwdrivers. After removing the cover, you need to unscrew six more screws securing the screens. The screens are detached by gentle pulling.

Then the speedometer and tachometer needles are removed. To do this, you need to pry them off with a screwdriver and pull them towards you, but do not twist them around the axis.

The locations of the ends of the arrows are marked with masking tape for correct subsequent assembly. At this point the disassembly stage is completed, you can proceed to the next step.

Replacing LEDs

The “native” LEDs in the dashboard have four terminals. Three of them are connected in parallel to the common bus, and one is connected to the power supply plus. The same diodes are extremely difficult to find, so they can be replaced with two-terminal ones (for example, brand 3528).

All old glow elements should be removed. The board uses refractory solder, so it needs to be heated well (a temperature of 350-400 degrees is recommended). A soldering station will come to the rescue here, allowing you to regulate the heating power.

New LEDs are soldered in the same way. In this case, it is necessary to monitor the polarity of their terminals. In 3528 LEDs, the cut edge of the housing indicates the negative terminal, and the opposite edge indicates the positive terminal.

To backlight the displays, smaller 3216 diodes are soldered.

If the LEDs shine too much, you can slightly reduce the brightness of their glow, for example, by “sketching” the lens with a permanent marker, as was done when tuning the dashboard of a Volkswagen Passat.

Functionality check

The final stage of replacing the dashboard backlight includes checking the functionality of the soldered elements and assembling the housing. During the soldering process, there is a high probability of overheating of the LED diodes and their further failure. You can check the LEDs using a tester that has a beeper function.

When the probes touch the terminals, the diode should light up. If this does not happen, the element should be replaced and checked again. After all elements have been checked, you can begin assembling the dashboard, which is performed in the reverse order of disassembly.

Source: http://autotema.info/tuning/pribornye-paneli/tyuning-paneli-priborov-toyota-corolla-sochetanie-originalnosti-i-udobstva.htm

Replacement of dashboard lamps, center console and buttons of Corolla E110. Photo report

I changed the light bulbs, experimented with LEDs, and decided to make a photo report.

The report consists of three parts:

  1. Replacing dashboard backlight lamps.
  2. Replacing the center console light bulbs (heater and airflow control).
  3. Replacing lamps in buttons.

Part 1. Replacing the dashboard backlight lamps

Lower the steering wheel to the down position. Unscrew the two top screws and pull out the decorative trim.

Unscrew the three screws securing the dashboard.

The speedometer cable prevents you from removing the tidy. I couldn’t turn it off right away from the speedometer; my hand wouldn’t fit through it. Therefore, I first unfastened it from the box; to do this, you need to pull the locking ring to the side and pull up the cable piece (the ring does not seem to come off, you need to pull it more carefully).

Next, we push the cable into the cabin and pull part of the tidy towards us, now it’s convenient to unfasten the cable from the speedometer.

We leave the cable in place, remove the device, and disconnect all electrical connectors.

My version of the tidy uses three types of lamps.

Turn the socket counterclockwise and remove the socket with the lamp. Baseless lamps.

The largest (pictured No. 1), 4 of them, are used to illuminate the scales and needles of instruments; they are identical in size to the bulbs standing in the dimensions, but in the dimensions they are used at 5 watts and they are too bright and heat up more (they melt the green rubber caps of the light filters ) there are also 3 watt ones on sale, that’s what I installed.

The smallest bulbs, No. 2, are used in the red and yellow warning indicators, as well as in the turn signal and high beam indicators. These bulbs are used without rubber caps. Light filters of the required colors are already built into the device. These bulbs are 1.2 watts and are sold at any parts store and are called dashboard light bulbs.

Lamp No. 3 is medium-sized, used to indicate low gasoline level when the needle is already at zero. I haven’t seen it for sale anywhere, but I think it rarely burns out.

For the experiment, I bought three LEDs intended for side lights and the dashboard. What happened can be seen in the photo. The most optimal beam of light, scattered in all directions, is provided by the LED, marked in the photo with a green checkmark. The other two diodes shine forward and illuminate only one digit; they are more suitable for their dimensions.

Here's what happened:

In this photo, there are ordinary lamps in green filters around the edges, the inside of the tachometer is illuminated by an ordinary lamp without a cap, and the inside of the speedometer is illuminated by an LED marked with a green check mark in the photo.

Part 2. Replacing the center console light bulbs

This is what the center console looks like on the big-eyed one.

Remove the three heating and ventilation control knobs by pulling them towards you. Remove the handle of the air intake lever (intake from the street, or circulation inside the cabin). Unscrew the two screws located under the outer handles.

Next, use a screwdriver to pry the panel from the top and pull it down a little and remove it. Simultaneously with removing the panel, we disconnect the ashtray light bulb, the connectors going to the cigarette lighter, the connector from the clock unit and the air conditioning control buttons.

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All control knobs located on the console are illuminated by two lamps shod with green rubber filters. The bulbs are baseless, sold in any auto parts store, called dashboard backlight lamps with a nominal value of 12V for 1.2 - 1.4 watts.

We take out the lamp, replace the green cap with the new one, and insert the new lamp into place. In the photo next to the lamps there is an LED of similar dimensions.

To illuminate the ashtray, exactly the same lamp is used, but without a filter.

But to illuminate the cigarette lighter, the lamp is soldered to the legs of the socket. We turn the cartridge counterclockwise and pull it out.

The light bulb is soldered and can only be pulled out together with the socket contact tabs, and in terms of dimensions it is half as long as the standard ones for the console. I haven't seen it on sale.

Well, here's what happened:

Part 3. Replacing lamps in buttons

To change the hazard warning light button illumination lamp, you need to remove the panel with the deflectors, and then remove the hazard warning light button from it.

We direct the deflectors as high as possible, under them on the left and right there will be mounting ears, which we pull down with a slotted screwdriver and pull the panel toward ourselves.

Pull out the emergency button.

There is a socket with a lamp on the side; use tweezers to turn it counterclockwise and pull it out.

The light bulb contacts are wrapped around the socket on the sides. The light bulb is small, the size of a match head.

These can be found either at radio markets or in radio-electronic component stores. I picked up one similar in size at the Chip and Dip store.

Marking H39-12005, 12V car radio lamp, costs about 20 rubles. It is a little longer and thicker than the original one, but it fits into the cartridge just fine.

In the photo they are number 2 red and white, number 3 is the original, number 1 is the center console backlight, for comparison.

To change the illumination lamp of the rear fog lamp button, carefully pry the panel with the button with a screwdriver and pull it towards you.

Then everything is the same as in the emergency button.

Almost the same lamp is used as in the emergency warning button, but with a green filter cap.

I also change this lamp to H39-12005, replacing the green cap.

Result:

Well, it’s also similar for the headlight electric corrector wheel. We pry it up with a screwdriver and pull out the wheel.

Source: https://corolla.ws/forum/showthread.php?t=11420

Tuning Toyota Corolla 2014: 160 body, photo

Today, many car owners are engaged in improving or, as it is also called, tuning their iron horses. Someone wants to improve the appearance, someone wants to “squeeze” additional horses from the engine, while others introduce innovations to the car’s interior. There are plenty of opportunities for this today. The 2014 Toyota Corolla in the E160 body was no exception in this regard.

This model, unlike its predecessors, received a CVT and an increase in overall dimensions. Despite its novelty, there are several options for creating the external distinctive features of this car.

A little about the accessories for this car

The refinement and comfort of the Corolla 160 is very high. However, by installing individual accessories you can achieve even greater perfection. All the huge number of accessories are divided into two groups.

One serves as a decoration for the car, and the other group improves convenience and safety while traveling. The second group should include everything that can be installed immediately after purchasing a car at a car dealership. These can be floor mats or trunk mats, mud flaps, a car alarm system and parking sensors, a deflector for side windows, crankcase protection, wheel rims and other parts.

A whole series of accessories for carrying luggage has been released especially for the Toyota Corolla. These can be a variety of boxes designed for installation on the roof of a car. They are usually gray or black. For those who need to transport skis or bicycles, mounts for their transportation have also been developed and sold.

It is impossible not to say a few words about accessories that will help owners protect their Toyota Corolla 160 from theft or minor damage. These include protective wheel arches, as well as transparent films for the hood and trunk. The same functions are performed by metal door sill plates with the company logo. It is also worth purchasing security wheel nuts.

External restyling and its features

Each owner of the 2014 model uses their imagination in their own way to improve the appearance. Sometimes the results are such that Toyota Corolla becomes completely unrecognizable in traffic. This can be achieved in different ways.

The installation of various chrome trims on individual body elements is very popular among owners of this model. These could be exterior mirrors, door handles and other elements. More recently, LED lighting devices for external body elements have appeared in retail chains for tuning. It can be installed for moldings, thresholds, side lights, bumpers, and trunk lids.

There is no limit to improvements. This is evidenced by the following fact: one Toyota Corolla owner modified the trunk lid of his car in such a way that it housed a bayonet shovel, a tow rope, a warning triangle and a pair of fire extinguishers.

About changes in the cabin

There is a wide scope for making changes in the interior of this model. Installing car seats of a different design or modification visually enlarges the interior. Built-in seat heaters and vibration massage mechanisms make travel even more comfortable.

At the next stage of tuning, you can start reupholstering the interior of the Corolla 160. For these purposes, suede, velor, natural or artificial leather, Alcantar, and flock are used. If expensive materials are used, in order to avoid defective work and damage to them, it is better to contact specialists.

Finding a contractor for such work is easy. Almost all major auto centers have qualified interior tuning specialists. Especially you should not undertake the task of reupholstering yourself with genuine leather. You can “experiment” with Alcantara yourself. This material is not expensive and if you have to throw away your creation, the damage will not be very noticeable financially.

Interior sound insulation does not remain aloof from modernization. Additionally, the doors, the entire trunk and the interior of the car are insulated. To do this, retail chains offer ready-made sound insulation kits, and the owner just has to install it on his car.

What can be done with the engine

The Toyota Corolla has a powerful and at the same time economical power unit, however, this does not stop tuning enthusiasts. They manage to find all sorts of loopholes to achieve their goals of upgrading the stock engine.

If tuning, in which various wings are installed on the trunks, takes first place in the rating, then the installation of a “forward flow” exhaust system confidently holds second place. Such cars stand out in the flow of traffic with the unusual “roar” of the engine.

Direct flow provides for a reduction in the resistance to the movement of exhaust gases from the engine cylinders. With this tuning of the Corolla 160, the standard exhaust system pipes are replaced with a larger diameter, which is 50 mm, and sometimes more.

The catalyst must be removed, and the oxygen sensor from the old pipe crashes into the new one. A new muffler is installed, it has increased dimensions. In some cases, they even install two mufflers.

Their cases, except those made of stainless steel, are chrome plated.

Another opportunity to work some magic on the power unit is to reflash the program and systems that control engine operation. It allows you to increase engine power without altering the engine itself.

It is also called chip tuning. After this modification, the Toyota Corolla receives a power unit with greater capabilities.

It should be said that the firmware of the 2014 Corolla is much more complex than other models of this popular brand.

You should be very careful and careful when choosing a specialist or company that engages in this type of activity. Toyota Corolla is an expensive and reliable car, and inept tuning can damage it for a long time. Ask which Corolla 160 models they performed such actions on.

They practice installing rear door shock absorbers from the VAZ 2108 under the hood. The convenience of such an improvement is undeniable, the hood opens very easily, and there is no stop that constantly interferes with maintenance.

There is a need to equip the windshield washer fluid with a heater. Their assembly and installation is quick and without any particular difficulties, and using them, especially in cold weather, will be very useful.

In conclusion, I would like to remind you that any modernization requires a competent and thoughtful approach, as well as certain financial resources.

Source: http://CorollaCar.ru/tyuning/tojota-korolla-2014-tyuning.html

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