How to decarbonize an engine with your own hands

How to understand that engine decarbonization is needed: do it yourself

Hi all! Such a task as engine decarbonization is faced by many car owners. Some people do it quite simply by sending their car for service. The procedure is not cheap, and you can do it yourself. There would be desire and free time.

Elements inside a diesel or gasoline engine are exposed to an aggressive environment. Gradually, coke, that is, carbon deposits, accumulates on their surface. Hence the concept of a coked engine. And since it is coked, it needs to be decoked. Oh, so many difficult words.

It's actually simple. Coke is a product of fuel combustion. When the engine is filled with these deposits, it begins to perform poorly. If flushing or cleaning is not carried out on time, this may result in major repairs or costly replacement of some elements.

I wouldn't say that the task is difficult. If you act wisely and have the correct instructions at hand, you can do it easily. I believe in you!

Why a coked engine is bad

Reviews from motorists clearly show that driving a coked engine is dangerous and unpleasant. Deposits affect the condition of rings, pistons, cylinders and more. Do not think that even after the most delicate operation, coke will not appear in the engine. It's inevitable sooner or later. Another question is whether you can do the cleaning in time.

Knowing how to do the procedure literally saves the life of the engine. Further driving with a layer of carbon deposits can cause the death of the power unit. Most often, coking provokes the following:

• Engine compression drops, followed by power;
• fuel consumption increases;
• dynamic characteristics deteriorate (that is, acceleration is generally sluggish);
• the oil becomes contaminated and the lubrication is disrupted;
• engine components wear out.

But why does this coking occur? Who will answer this question? I will try.

Causes and symptoms

There are no engines that are perfectly clean inside. Except at the factory. But it happens that some carbon deposits form after 200 thousand kilometers, while others calmly drive all 400-500 thousand. An interesting question, you will agree. But the answer is elementary.

It all depends on how much the so-called provoking factors influence the engine. These include:

• low quality fuel;
• using oil that is not suitable for the vehicle;
• ignoring basic rules for operating the machine;
• the use of structural elements in the engine that do not correspond to it (all kinds of tuning, etc.).

And the more such factors, the sooner decarbonization will be required. Is it necessary? Certainly. Is it worth doing it yourself? Here you can choose for yourself. I did it myself, nothing complicated.

A correct assessment of the situation allows you to start cleaning the insides of the engine in a timely manner. To do this, listen to the car. No, you don’t have to stand and listen to her. Just while driving, pay attention to the characteristic signs of coking:

• dynamics drop and power deteriorates;
• fuel consumption increases;
• the engine rattles like an old diesel when starting;
• compression drops;
• there is a lot of unnecessary noise;
• the motor is troublesome;
• Dark smoke comes out of the exhaust and smokes constantly.

Yes, I would call such signs indirect, since there are a number of other reasons that can provoke such phenomena. Water gets into the oil and that's where you get the smoke.

What to do in this situation? You can disassemble the assembly and check the condition of the elements. If you have never done decarbonization, and the car has a lot of mileage, then even a preventative flush will never hurt.

Types of procedures

On the question of what is the best way to do decarbonization. It is important to consider how dirty the motor is. Methods can be divided into two types.

• Mechanical. Involves disassembling the engine (partial) and mechanical cleaning of the elements of the power unit;
• Chemical. This method is based on the use of special chemistry and potent liquids. You can disassemble the engine or do without this step.

It is important to assess the condition of the engine. The mechanical method is relevant to use if:

• the symptoms of pollution are very serious, the engine is on the verge of death;
• during disassembly you saw huge dirt;
• the use of chemistry does not give the desired effect.

But chemical cleaning is carried out in the following cases:

• the symptoms are not severe, the engine runs worse, but does not die;
• During disassembly, a small amount of carbon deposits was discovered;
• you are performing preventative cleaning.

If you have time and a special liquid that you can buy at an automotive or household chemical store, then you can easily do it yourself.

Mechanical method

Does chemistry help with advanced cases? Rarely. The chemical composition is not able to rid the internal surfaces of carbon deposits, so we have to resort to the mechanical method.

The procedure is carried out according to the instructions.

• Disassemble the engine. Only a visual test will allow you to assess the real condition of the car. Disassembly is carried out according to the operating manual for your specific car. You can watch visual videos, they won’t hurt;
• Get started. Use various available tools, brushes, sponges and the like. The main thing here is not to overdo it with the abrasive, since when creating scratches you can ruin the part. Defects are not acceptable;
• Secure the result with a liquid product. Here you can use gasoline, kerosene, acetone, solvent or hydroperite, for example. Some people clean the residue with hydrogen peroxide. It’s not scary to literally fill the disassembled parts with compounds. In some cases, they will have to be soaked and left for a while for the chemical to take effect;
• Reassemble. Reassemble the elements in the same way as you took them apart. Carry out the mandatory test by warming up the engine and driving the car for several kilometers.

Everything seems simple. Yes, if you have an old VAZ or some not the latest Priora, then you can take on the burden of responsibility. But having cars like Subaru, Honda or even Ford Focus at your disposal, it is better to realistically assess your capabilities and risks in advance.

The main difficulty is disassembly and assembly.

Chemical cleaning

This decarbonization method is more common and popular. And the motor is much easier to clean. If you do not have experience in disassembling the engine, then it is enough to buy special chemicals and pour it into the system.

Don't think about how much chemicals cost. This is not the most expensive expense item. Here it is important to choose a suitable composition that can really effectively rid the internal surfaces of parts from carbon deposits. I would include among them:

• Laurel;
• Mitsubishi Shumma;
• BG 109;
• Hado;
• Greenol Reanimator;
• Liquid Molly.

The price for them is quite affordable, your wallet will definitely not be left empty. But these products are good and have been personally tested.

As for chemical decarbonization, there are two types:

There is a difference between them, so I suggest studying them separately.

Soft method

Mild chemical cleaning is relevant if the symptoms are minor and you would rather decarbonize for the purpose of prevention. Works great on dirty oil scraper rings and more.

The bottom line is that you need a special additive. It is added to oil or fuel. You will notice the result 40-50 kilometers after adding.

Everything is easy, fast and simple. But it won’t cope with heavy dirt.

Hard method

If coking is severe, choose a harsh cleaning method. You will need a special, powerful chemical, the list of which I have already shown above.

It is added to the cylinders or soaked parts if you decide to disassemble the engine. The procedure is carried out approximately like this (may differ depending on the chosen chemistry):

• the machine is fixed in a horizontal position;
• the engine heats up to operating parameters;
• injectors or spark plugs are removed;
• the piston is moved to the middle position;
• a chemical is injected with a syringe;
• spark plugs and injectors are put in place;
• the car sits motionless for several hours;
• the spark plugs and injectors are removed again;
• use a syringe to remove the filled chemicals;
• additional operations provided by the manufacturer of the products are carried out;
• reassembly is in progress.

Do what the chemical manufacturer says. Otherwise problems may arise.

Some decarbonize with just water. Moreover, this method is ancient, but remains effective even in comparison with modern chemistry.

You need to fill the bottle with distilled water, connect a hose to the neck and connect it to the throttle assembly. Supply water so that the motor runs normally at idle. Water will enter the fuel combustion chamber, evaporate and remove any contaminants that have formed. To increase efficiency, throw a dozen hydroperite tablets into the water. A killer mixture against soot.

As you can see, you can deal with a coked engine yourself. The task is not the most difficult and can be completed in a few hours (sometimes in a few minutes).

Periodic maintenance will allow you to maintain the operating parameters of the engine and not face the need to completely disassemble the engine. Good luck!

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Source: https://pricep-vlg.ru/remont-svoimi-rukami/raskoksovka-dvigatelya/

Do-it-yourself engine decarbonization - do it right

Recently, engine decarbonization has become a widely discussed procedure. This procedure is quite widely discussed in motorist circles.

In this regard, the question arises: is the engine decarbonization procedure useful at all? As a result, it turns out that opinions may differ, since no one will give a one hundred percent guarantee that the engine will be improved.

Each engine has its own diseases, and because of this, each engine requires an individual treatment approach.

Thus, decarbonization is a preventive procedure that allows a longer period to maintain the engine in good condition, and not a means of its complete resuscitation and complete renewal.

Decarbonization is inherently a fairly simple procedure. However, there are some rules that you need to know before you get started. If the motor is “sick” and not completely “killed”, then you can always try to cure it. If the engine is healthy, with a solid mileage, you need to “drink vitamins” for prevention.

1. Engine decarbonization - nature of contamination

Often, the category of drivers who need to decarbonize their diesel engine turns to a car service center. This is directly related to the fact that difficulties arise when removing diesel injectors.

In most cases, it is still possible to achieve a positive outcome.

However, situations arise when decarbonization, which was carried out incorrectly, may require a major overhaul of the engine.

Initially, for this procedure to be successful and quite effective, you need to know exactly the reasons why the carbon deposits formed. Often the main reason for the appearance of soot is the use of low quality fuel. Because of this, deposits of carbon created from unburned fuel residues appear in the combustion chamber itself.

The same thing happens with those valves that simply burn out for this reason. Due to various types of additives, piston rings become overgrown with deposits, which increase the octane number of the fuel.

As a result, compression in the cylinders themselves drops, which may result in a decrease in engine power. Poor starting is also noticeable, as is excessive consumption of fuel and oil. As a result of all this, wear of the entire piston group accelerates. That is why most motorists are faced with the question of how to properly decarbonize the engine.

2. Means for engine decarbonization - methods of combating carbon deposits

In the modern world, there are two most common methods for carrying out the engine decarbonization procedure: hard and soft. Both methods have both positive and negative sides.

In addition to these methods, one cannot help but pay attention to new methods, the basis of which is the chemical industry - there are special liquids that can clean the engine at the time of its direct operation.

Thus, the car enthusiast himself can choose which method to choose and use to improve the performance of his main unit. Below we will indicate all the positive aspects, as well as the negative ones, of these types of decaring - soft and hard, as this is necessary for a broad knowledge of the car owner.

3. Liquid for engine decarbonization

In the modern world, there is a special liquid that is used directly to decarbonize the engine. It allows you to carry out the decarbonization procedure while the car is moving.

It is necessary to pour it into the fuel tank of the car, and from there it will enter the combustion chamber along with the fuel.

Thus, complete burnout of all deposits existing there will occur, and the remnants of these deposits will come out through the gas exhaust system.

This method is the most economical and simple. It does not require special tools or skills. And the most successful thing is that this method is the most effective of all known today.

Soft and hard decoking methods are also effective. The principle is quite similar and similar to the above, but as there should always be, there are certain differences that allow one method to dominate over the other, attracting more people to use it.

Since the entire decarbonization process can be carried out by yourself and all methods are suitable for this procedure alone, they will be described in the next paragraph of the plan.

4. How to decarbonize the engine yourself

It was already mentioned above that there are two main ways to de-carbonize an engine: “soft” and “hard”. Due to the rapid development of automotive technology, a third method has emerged, which is the most effective and least expensive of those proposed.

If soft cleaning is used, special means are used for this procedure, which allow cleaning only the piston rings . This product is added to the oil approximately 200 km before its scheduled replacement. During this period, the engine is operated in light mode, so heavy loads should be avoided.

After this point, it is imperative to change the engine oil. There is a significant drawback of this method: cleaning occurs only for the piston rings, while the valves and combustion chamber are not cleaned. Based on this, such partial loosening does not lead to an excellent result, but can serve as a kind of light help for the engine.

Also, most of the preparations used for this decarbonization are traditional liquids for flushing the oil system, and, as is known, cleaning components are added to them to remove carbon deposits.

Thus, there is a certain overpayment, since all the necessary elements exist in conventional drugs, which are much cheaper and, perhaps, of higher quality than those offered. And yet, it is advisable to use this type of decarbonization for prevention, since it is in no way suitable for the complete treatment of the engine. It can be used at every oil change.

The old and proven “grandfather’s method” is the most common. This method is called “hard decoking”. The essence of this process is also quite simple. First, you need to place the car in a horizontal position, after which the engine must be warmed up to operating temperature.

At this moment you need to unscrew the spark plugs or remove the injectors. It is necessary to turn the crankshaft and, using a screwdriver, set the pistons to the middle position. “Nuclear” auto chemicals must be poured into each cylinder directly into the combustion chamber.

After this, you need to leave it there for a certain time (up to 12 hours) to soften the carbon deposits. The engine needs to be warmed up to intensify the procedure, since in this case a “steam bath” effect will be created and the carbon deposits will soften significantly.

In this case, it is advisable to close the candle wells by lightly filling the candles.

This is done so that the engine cools down longer, but the ignition must be turned off. After this procedure, it is necessary to unscrew the spark plugs and, by turning the crankshaft from the combustion chamber with the starter, remove all cleaning fluid that has not leaked into the crankcase.

The spark plug holes can be covered with a rag so that dirt does not fly away and stain the entire engine compartment. After this, after tightening the spark plugs, you need to start the engine and let it run at different speeds, or drive about 50 km.

After this, it is imperative to change the oil.

There are many obvious disadvantages with this type of procedure: efficiency depends entirely on the selected auto chemicals and the type of engine; The problem is not always completely removed; sometimes it is only possible to remove carbon deposits; auto chemicals of this kind are very toxic; recommended only in warm weather conditions; It is difficult to calculate how much fluid needs to be poured into each cylinder and where the middle position of the piston is.

Since a lot of words have already been said about liquid engine degassing, there is no point in saying more about it, since it is a leader in all respects among its peers in this type of work.

Source: https://auto.today/bok/2404-raskoksovka-dvigatelya-svoimi-rukami-vypolnyaem-pravilno.html

Correct engine decarbonization, means, methods, tricks

19.02.2017

Hi all. The topic of today's article is proper engine decarbonization. The article discusses popular decarbonization methods and analyzes the effectiveness of each of them.

A little theory.

In internal combustion engines, 3 rings are installed on the piston - 2 compression rings (they provide compression of the mixture in the cylinder) and one oil scraper ring. When the engine operates during fuel combustion, carbon deposits are deposited on the surfaces of the piston and combustion chamber. This occurs especially intensively in winter and during urban traffic cycles.

Some of this carbon deposits inevitably fall on the surface of the rings and clog them. Accordingly, the rings become less mobile and better allow the mixture to pass into the crankcase. As a result, engine power drops, fuel consumption increases, and the oil darkens faster, all this is a consequence of decreased compression...

Decarbonization - removal of carbon deposits from the surfaces of compression and oil scraper rings....

Old-fashioned methods

We warm up the engine to operating temperature, turn out the spark plugs, set the pistons to the middle position and fill each cylinder with 150 cm^3 of a mixture of kerosene (80%) and engine oil (20%), or acetone (30%), kerosene 30%, gasoline ( 30%), motor oil (10%).

After this, we turn the engine back and forth several times (on old cars this was somewhat easier, but a modern engine can also be turned by hand without spark plugs, for example, by a pulley or alternator belt).

We leave the car overnight.

In the morning, we wrap the spark plugs, start the engine and let it idle for about 10 minutes.

After this, change the oil and operate the car as usual.

It is necessary to change the oil, since kerosene and acetone are aggressive to the oil and it will lose its properties. Accordingly, it is better to do this decarbonization before changing the oil, so as not to overpay for its replacement.

Engine decarbonization with hydroperite

This is a classic of the genre today; six tablets of hydrogen peroxide (hydroperite) are diluted into 5 liters of water and poured through the engine. It's done something like this:

It doesn’t matter the carburetor or the injector…. The main thing is not to overfill the water and not experience a water hammer.

In fact, hydroperite is not really needed here; I didn’t notice any difference between decarbonization with water and decarbonization with hydrogen peroxide.

A huge advantage of this method is that water vapor will wash away carbon deposits from the valves and from the walls of the combustion chamber and from the piston bottom and rings.

Also, if the engine is not very worn, then not much water will get into the oil and, accordingly, you can do without changing it (it will become clear after a day of driving - if no emulsion has appeared under the oil filler cap, then you don’t have to change the oil).

Decoking using this method should be done very carefully, since if you make a mistake, there is a high risk of experiencing a water hammer and damaging the engine.

Achievements of modern chemistry - LAVR product

Decoking with laurel is in many ways similar to the old-fashioned method, but the chemistry in its composition is somewhat different, so they decarbonize it a little differently.

The procedure for decoking the engine with laurel.

1. Warm up to operating temperature.
2. Turning out the candles
3. Set the pistons to the middle position
4. Fill each cylinder with 150-200 cm^3 laurel decarbonizer
5. Wrap the candles (to create a steam bath)
6. Waiting for 12 hours
7. Use a syringe to pump out the remaining liquid from the cylinder.
8. Since laurel consists of a solvent, it washes away oil from the cylinder walls and before starting, fill in 5-10 cm^3 of engine oil.
9. wrap the candles
10. Change oil and filter
11. Start the engine and let it idle for 2-3 minutes.

The most correct engine decarbonization

Dear readers, I think it is obvious to everyone that any chemical cannot completely remove carbon deposits!

You can completely remove carbon deposits and decarbonize the deposited rings only by disassembling the engine and removing the pistons.

When the engine is disassembled, carbon deposits from the ring channels and piston surfaces are easily removed with 646 solvent or, according to the old grandfather’s recipe, everything from which carbon deposits need to be washed off is soaked in kerosene and scrubbed with brushes.

Obviously, the decarbonization method associated with disassembling the engine will give the highest quality and guaranteed result, but it is very expensive and, accordingly, no one does this today!

The engine is disassembled only for routine or major repairs!

Best regards, administrator life-with-cars.ru

Source: http://life-with-cars.ru/remont-v-garazhe/dvigatel/pravilnaya-raskoksovka-dvigatelya-sredstva-sposoby-hitrosti/

Decarbonization of engine piston rings

Engine cylinders are parts in which constant combustion of the fuel mixture occurs, forming carbon deposits. Its removal is called decoking. Oil supply is carried out in two ways - using oil seals or piston rings. In the first case, you need to replace the unit; in the second, you can decarbonize the piston rings yourself .

A car service center will encourage you to overhaul the engine, but you can get by using preventive methods. By completing simple tasks to remove carbon deposits yourself, you will increase your car's mileage by 30-40 thousand km and will not lose money on replacing parts.

There is a similar article on this topic - Knock sensor: signs of malfunction, replacement.

Causes of soot

The following reasons can be identified:

• Short trips in the off-season and winter.
• Violation of oil change schedules.
• Overheated motor.
• Low quality engine oil.
• Car idle time in winter.
• Various additive compounds.
• Increased thermal operating conditions of the engine.

The presence of severe carbon deposits can be indicated by increased fuel consumption, black vehicle exhaust, loss of power and low compression.

Do-it-yourself engine decoking is carried out using special means - chemical compositions for engine cylinders (for example, liquid for decoking piston rings).

The most famous are the special equipment XADO, Titan, LAVR, SURM, etc.

To clean the engine of slag without disassembling, LAVR is poured in doses of 45 ml into the technological connectors of the cylinders to decarbonize the piston rings.

Before performing work, place the car on a clean horizontal surface. This way the cylinders will take a vertical position (you can adjust them manually if you have access). We warm up the engine to the required temperature, turn it off, remove the injectors, glow plugs and spark plugs.

The technology is only applicable to in-line (not opposed) engines. To avoid ignition of the anti-coking agent.

After all the manipulations, we leave the engine for a couple of hours, free the cylinder bores, crank the starter with the gas squeezed out - this will remove excess chemicals in the cylinders.

Next, we mount the removed parts and let the engine run idle, but with revving, and change the used oil.

The resulting carbon deposits must be loosened before removal. Otherwise, its residues will interfere with the normal operation of the engine. Coke deposits accumulate in the chambers and in the grooves under the piston rings.

The rings become poorly movable and do not adhere tightly to the cylinder walls, which causes ineffective oil removal from the walls.

This provokes a subsequent layer of soot, and so on, upward, until it stops.

Do-it-yourself decoking of rings using “chemistry” will require the following materials:

• carbon remover (anti-coke);
• a syringe with a tube (we will use it to pump out the remaining chemicals from the cylinders);
• compressor;
• oil filter;
• oil to change after all work has been completed.

After such a procedure, the car may emit a black, strong-smelling exhaust. There is no need to be alarmed; after such a procedure, this is a normal phenomenon; residues come out.

Correct decarbonization of piston rings, video:

Some motorists have learned to use a milder procedure that has the same effect in removing carbon deposits as chemicals. Decarbonization with water is the most common method that owners of domestic and imported cars decide to use.

For the procedure you will need:

• distilled water in a plastic bottle;
• dropper;
• hose (for windshield washer);
• tee (connect the washer).

The scheme of work is as follows: water from a bottle is connected through a dropper to the engine suction. You can use non-distilled water - the filtration system in the dropper itself will handle the cleaning. Water supply starts with the engine running - at approximately 2000 rpm.

2-3 drops per second is enough when the engine is idling when the engine is warm. The effect will not take long to appear, the carbon deposits are removed, and the car becomes dynamic and economical.

Decarbonization with kerosene - instructions

The occurrence of piston rings due to carbon deposits can be “cured” with kerosene. The method is especially good if deposits on rings and channels have created an insurmountable layer of coke. You will need a 50:50 mixture of kerosene and acetone .

Step-by-step description of removing carbon deposits:

1. Unscrew all spark plugs.
2. Pour about 100 mg into each hole in the cylinders (to distribute the mixture evenly, it is preferable to install them in one line).
3. Install the spark plugs and leave the car overnight (at least 8 hours).

4. Unscrew the spark plugs and place a rag on the spark plug wells.
5. Start the starter so that the remaining solution comes out through the wells.

6. Tighten the spark plugs, start the engine, 15 km of driving is enough to eliminate the residue (it is advisable to choose a busy road, cleaning will cause a lot of smoke).
7. Change the oil.

Decarbonizing piston rings with kerosene is a simple procedure that can be done alone. As a result, we get normal oil consumption without excessive consumption, improved vehicle dynamics, clean injectors, and no detonation due to accumulated coke.

Decarbonization of oil scraper rings with kerosene, video:

This method of removing carbonaceous products is considered softer. A product for decoking piston rings without changing the oil is a special additive for gasoline or diesel fuel. Their action is based on the removal of combustion products using a special chemical composition.

The inner surface of the motor is constantly exposed to a special composition, which eliminates the accumulation of coke.

Some advantages of this method:

• Simplicity and convenience - no need to remove spark plugs and injectors.
• Introduction in a minute.
• Changing the engine oil is carried out as standard, according to maintenance.
• The surface of the engine is protected by the resulting film, which reduces the accumulation of carbon deposits.

But it’s difficult to call such drugs a panacea. This is more of a local product that will help in case of mild coking. If the volume of carbon deposits is critical, additives will not be able to remove it, since they do not have a softening effect. These are flushing compounds with cleaning ingredients to remove light carbon deposits on piston rings.

On the other hand, decarbonizing the piston rings without changing the oil is the only option if engine knocking and black exhaust take you by surprise on a long journey. Usage standards for passenger cars are 50 ml per 40-60 liters of gasoline (or diesel fuel), for trucks - 100 ml per 200 liters of fuel.

Important! Diesel units are filled with fuel containing alcohol depressant additives, which reduce the viscosity temperature of diesel fuel. In this case, the combustion chamber becomes dirty faster, and it is not advisable to remove spark plugs in cold weather. Soft cleaning compounds will prolong engine life by eliminating deposits.

The liquid for cleaning piston rings has active particles that provoke the disintegration of carbon deposits and combustion when the fuel mixture is ignited. As the fuel tank empties, the combustion chamber is cleaned.

Interesting facts about decarbonization

Since the times of the USSR, the quality of gasoline has improved, but the problem remains - any driver is faced with the removal of slag and coke on the piston rings. Soviet oil is also far from modern, but not a single car owner can fully claim that it does not form carbon deposits. Persistent deposits that affect the stable operation of the cylinders will lead to a major overhaul.

Main misconceptions:

• The first incorrect conclusion is that modern engines do not need decarbonization. Any engine is operated in harsh conditions, including winter. This is the first and main reason for the formation of carbon deposits. Modern piston systems have provided parts with smaller clearances and grooves, which increases vulnerability.
• Decoking of XADO, LAVR and other similar decoking agents cannot be called the only method of “treating” an engine. Periodic cleaning with oil changes will give good results, but the products are only good for standard engines. Namely, with a volume of no more than 2 liters, a vertical arrangement of the cylinders, and a shallow recess in the piston bottom. Otherwise, it must be filled with the product separately.
• High cost is a reckless statement from an inexperienced driver. Anticoke costs much less than a major overhaul. For example, decoking laurel, the instructions for use of which are simple and clear, are made in Russia, which means the price is several times lower than imported analogues. According to research results, it ranks second in the Russian market, the soaking time of soaked pistons is 8-10 hours.
• Engine decarbonization fluid works the same for all types of engines. There is no need to look for compounds separately for diesel and gasoline engines. The repair and maintenance operation is performed in a standard manner. Avoid working in winter, outdoors or in the rain.
• Decarbonization of oil scraper rings is impossible with a cold engine. A heated engine provokes a steam bath, softening the carbon deposits. Otherwise, the deposits will not soften, and the effect of the procedure will be zero.
• Using anti-coke is not the only cleaning method. Some car models have a complex design, it is impossible to get close to the technological holes of the cylinders; you will need a set of special tools. The volume of liquid added should not exceed the manufacturer's recommendations.
• Additives for decoking oil rings will not clean carbon deposits white. From a technical point of view, this makes no sense. A composition that is too caustic will cause damage to parts.

After cleaning, the car will smoke, but not always heavily. In addition to slag and other carbon deposits, the system will emit anti-coke residues. If you remove the liquid remaining on the cylinders, there will be much less smoke.

You will be interested in this article - Knock sensor: signs of malfunction, replacement.

For convenient introduction of the composition into the holes, some manufacturers add a special syringe to the kit.

Of the products that do not require removing candles, the most popular is Edial decarbonization. The advantages are that they work exclusively in the combustion chamber, activation at elevated temperatures, and cleaning in normal mode.

Mixing is simple - just pour the drug into the fuel tank at the gas station before refueling. The priorities are decarbonization of the diesel engine , including mineral residues (ash), which are formed at a temperature of 850 degrees.

How to protect your car from carbon deposits?

• driving at low speeds should be as gentle as possible;
• the shorter the period of vehicle downtime, the less slagging of the piston rings;
• in cold weather, good warming up is required;
• timely oil changes will reduce the amount of carbon deposits;
• the use of additives will increase the service life of the engine by 40 thousand km.

If the problem already exists, the car consumes more oil and gasoline, fumes and smokes, learn how to decarbonize the engine yourself. And may your “iron horse” never fail!

Source: https://autoot.ru/raskoksovka-porshnevyh-kolec-dvigatelya.html

To decarbonize the engine yourself or not

Every car enthusiast whose “iron friend” has served him for quite a long time has encountered the problem of engine decompression. The vast majority of car services in such cases recommend making major repairs.

However, this procedure is quite expensive and, as practice shows, not always really necessary.

In many cases, the solution to this problem came down to a simpler question: how to decarbonize an engine with your own hands? Is this procedure really necessary and so simple that a trip to a car service is not necessary?

Engine decarbonization is a procedure widely discussed in circles

During the operation of a car, we, unfortunately, constantly encounter things that can subsequently create a huge number of problems for our cars.

For example, constantly sitting in traffic jams is harmful not only to our nerves: prolonged operation of the engine at low speeds significantly increases the formation of carbon deposits on the walls and bottom of the fuel chamber, as well as on the valves. The same effect can be caused by using low-quality fuel or unsuitable oil, driving on a “cold” engine, etc.

This carbon deposit is formed due to incomplete combustion of the fuel mixture, and is then aggravated by tiny carbon particles in the exhaust gases. The formation of this carbon deposit is called engine coking.

Example of a coked engine

In order to answer the question of whether decoking the engine will help, we will try to understand what the coking of the unit actually means for the car.

• Carbon deposits increase the thickness of the cylinder walls, increasing the thermal load due to poor heat dissipation.
• Considering that carbon deposits trapped under the valve prevent it from fitting tightly to the seat, it is quite possible for the valve to burn out.
• The play between the valve walls and the piston rings decreases, which leads to their “stacking” - the tightness of the combustion chamber is broken, compression is reduced, in some cases the rings simply physically break.
• The engine begins to “eat” oil due to reduced mobility of the piston rings.
• Due to pressure surges in the combustion chamber, detonation phenomena occur, which quickly “kill” the engine.

In general, there is little pleasant, as they say, and almost all of the listed consequences lead to a trip to the service center for a major engine overhaul.

To the service or to the garage

If your car's exhaust has acquired a characteristic black color, power has dropped, and fuel and oil consumption has increased, your car most likely has an engine problem.

The verdict of most car services is a major overhaul. However, there is another option that, quite possibly, will resolve all issues in one fell swoop.

This method is to remove carbon deposits formed during operation and decarbonize the unit.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JDjivIpH9ug

How to decarbonize an engine? Is it necessary to go to a car service center or can the problem be solved with “little blood” and with the help of your own skillful hands? The question has several possible answers.

First, you need to understand what exactly needs to be done and how. If previously the “hard” decoking method was used almost everywhere, which meant pouring a special mixture directly into each cylinder, now there are more options and some of them do not involve any intervention in the aggregate part at all.

Secondly, you need to decide (if the method of complete decoking is chosen) to independently carry out this action.

If you have decided to go to a car service center, then what follows will be useful for you only from an educational point of view. If decarbonizing the engine with your own hands does not scare you, first of all you need to determine the appropriate method for yourself.

To each his own: methods for engine decarbonization

Partial decarbonization method (“soft”)

This method involves adding a special liquid to the oil shortly before changing it - after adding the liquid, you can drive this oil for a hundred or two kilometers without loading the engine, and then change it immediately. It is not possible to perform a complete cleaning using this method because the carbon remover does not enter the combustion chamber.

Only the most frequently stuck oil scraper rings are cleaned. However, the method is low-cost and as simple as possible, so it can be recommended as a preventative before each oil change - such a procedure certainly will not be superfluous.

It is also very important to understand that by pouring such a product, we dilute the oil, which means driving at high speeds before changing the oil will be strictly contraindicated.

Complete decarbonization method (“hard”)

This is a method that requires some effort and time. However, it is this that will allow you to completely clean the engine of carbon deposits.

How to decarbonize an engine

Carrying out a complete decarbonization

To carry out a complete cleaning, you need to place the car horizontally (as if changing the oil) and warm up the engine to operating temperature to create a “steam bath” effect. Next we perform the following actions:

1. We remove the injectors or unscrew the spark plugs.
2. We put all the pistons in the middle position using a screwdriver or wire, turning the crankshaft. The average position of the pistons is determined by the different wear of the cylinders in height and the required amount of product. When the pistons are in a position close to the middle, there is no excess fluid consumption and it better penetrates into all the necessary gaps.
3. Using a syringe (it’s more convenient to measure an equal amount and get it exactly) we pour a special product into the cylinders (for example, Winns or domestic LAVR ML-202), light the candles and leave the liquid in the cylinders for the time specified in the instructions. Usually this time ranges from an hour to a day, however, in the case of using special decarbonizing preparations, this time can be increased up to several weeks.
4. When carrying out quick decarbonization (for an hour or a little more), it is necessary to periodically rotate the crankshaft in different directions by 5–10 degrees for better distribution of the product.
5. Having previously covered the spark plug wells with a rag to prevent dirt from scattering, we turn the crankshaft to completely remove the cleaning fluid from the combustion chamber.
6. We tighten the spark plugs and start the engine. Let it idle for about 60 minutes.
7. Change the oil and oil filter.

The described method was used by our grandfathers and decoking of the engine with their own hands was done quite often: the quality of fuel and oil was not at all the same as now, and Soviet people preferred not to go to services, doing it themselves.

In those days, they did not pour special products, but mixed kerosene and acetone in half. In principle, the same effect was achieved, but there is a small nuance. When carrying out a complete cleaning of carbon deposits, the oil is completely washed out from the cylinder walls.

Thus, the first start of the engine after draining the mixture into the crankcase occurs “dry”, which can lead to the formation of so-called scuffing and wear of the piston rings. Current tools address this problem.

For example, during decarbonization, LAVR creates a special film on the cylinder walls, which prevents the formation of scuffs and subsequently significantly reduces the adhesion of carbon deposits.

It is also necessary to take into account that complete cleaning is carried out using fairly highly toxic substances, so it is imperative to provide good ventilation in the room where the decarbonization procedure will be carried out .

Another problem is related to the arrangement of the cylinders in the engine. The easiest way to use this method is on conventional in-line engines. In the case of a V-shaped or opposed cylinder arrangement, the procedure is slightly more complicated, although the general essence is the same.

The differences include more difficult access to the spark plugs and the need to almost completely cover the piston with liquid.

For example, when decarbonizing boxer engines, the liquid can be “pressed” by rotating the crankshaft on the compression stroke, thus ensuring that the entire volume of the combustion chamber is filled.

Auto chemical test LAVR ML-202: engine decarbonization and compression measurements

There is also an interesting paradox: in old cars with significant mileage, complete decarbonization may not only not improve engine performance, but, on the contrary, reduce compression.

This happens when the parts already have significant wear and carbon deposits act as a seal between engine elements. By washing away the carbon deposits, we will increase the gap between the piston and the cylinder and, therefore, reduce the compression.

Thus, in the case of an old car, you need to think about whether decarbonizing the engine will help or, conversely, will worsen the situation .

And the biggest problem with this method is the duration. Although express decarbonization within an hour is possible, this method does not always guarantee absolute cleaning of the entire combustion chamber from carbon deposits . To be sure, you need to leave the car inoperative for a long time.

Additive method

The simplest, but time-consuming method. Its essence is to pour a special product (for example, EDIAL decarbonizer) directly into the fuel tank, from where it enters together with the fuel directly into the combustion chamber. Penetrating into the thickness of soot, particles of the decarbonizing agent provoke its complete burnout and go with it into the exhaust.

The advantages of this decarbonization method are, firstly, that there is no need to disassemble the car and leave it inoperative.

Secondly, after pouring the required amount of product into a full tank, you don’t think about what mode you need to drive in - decarbonization occurs in this case, the better the higher the engine load .

Another important difference is that there is no need to change the oil after the procedure, since the product, unlike the “hard” method, does not enter the crankcase.

What's the result?

What a healthy engine should look like

We hope that after reading this material you will not have a question about whether engine decarbonization is necessary. If the car is not old, such a procedure will either completely solve the problems with decompression, loss of power and black smoke from the chimney, or it will show that the case is completely advanced and cannot be avoided without a major overhaul.

In general, we definitely recommend that, before preparing money for capital, you try to decarbonize the engine yourself using any method convenient for you - there is a fairly high probability that you will save time and money. Many car enthusiasts, sharing their experiences, point to a decrease in fuel and oil consumption, an improvement in the dynamic characteristics of the car and the disappearance of black exhaust gases after decarbonization.

In any case, preventing the formation of carbon deposits, in the case of periodic use of the soft decarbonization method when changing oil, will not hurt.

We wish you success, and your car smooth cylinders and shiny pistons!

Source: http://365cars.ru/remont/delat-ili-net-raskoksovku-dvigatelya.html