Question about the Chinese steering rack on the Corolla 120
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1 Topic by Faraon 03/17/2015 18:32:44 (3 years 3 months ago)
Good day everyone. Guys, please tell me, is it worth buying a Chinese steering rack for a Corolla 120? The rack in the car has already tormented me, it rattles terribly on bumps. About half a year ago I went to the turners in Severo-Zapadnaya, where the bushing was supposedly machined and installed. But not even 3 days passed, it started thundering again.
In general, the assholes, in a word, stupidly tightened the nuts for a while. After which I decided to think about buying a new rack. But the original one costs about 30,000 rubles, which is very expensive for such an outrageously cheap car.
I started reading about the Chinese version of this electric rail, but I still can’t understand whether it’s worth buying or not?
I don’t even want to hear about the contract steering rack!
Brrrrrrrrrrr!!!
2 Reply from Buldozer 03/17/2015 18:41:06 (3 years 3 months ago)
they turned me this notorious bushing from corporal tan, in my opinion, I’ve already been riding with it for 2 years - peace and quiet to this day
3 Reply from Pavel 03/17/2015 18:42:41 (3 years 3 months ago)
Bulldozer writes:
+100500! Already traveled a hundred! Quiet and quiet!
+79132139551
4 Reply from qwert82 03/17/2015 18:44:01 (3 years 3 months ago)
I installed the 50th hydraulic rack with Vista and forgot about this problem, my brain also faded for a long time. You just need to take it with cardan joints, you remove one of them and it goes back to how it was. A year ago it cost 3 thousand rubles
5 Reply from Evgeny652 03/17/2015 18:44:30 (3 years 3 months ago)
Bulldozer writes:
where did you sharpen it? price?
on my 110 body it rattles
Edited (03/17/2015 18:45:15, 3 years 3 months ago)
6 Reply from Pavel 03/17/2015 18:45:25 (3 years 3 months ago)
Faraon , I’ll suggest a service, the person’s phone number is simply unavailable. Maybe it has changed, maybe not. There in the MTS workshop the reception is very bad. If I don’t get through by the evening, I’ll send you a screenshot from GIS.
qwert82 writes:
So do I need to sculpt another pulley onto the engine for the hydrach, or am I misunderstanding something?
Evgeniy652 writes:
For me on the 120th in 12th year they did it for 3000.
Edited (03/17/2015 18:47:27, 3 years 3 months ago)
+79132139551
7 Reply from Evgeniy652 03/17/2015 18:48:54 (3 years 3 months ago)
Chinese rake is just a lottery
8 Reply from Buldozer 03/17/2015 18:52:19 (3 years 3 months ago)
Evgeniy652 writes:
At Fabrichnaya there is a small lathe, right now I don’t even remember the address, for the money I think it was done in 6, including removing/installing the rack + tips and rods were changed
Edited by Buldozer (03/17/2015 06:53:42 PM, 3 years 3 months ago)
9 Reply from qwert82 03/17/2015 18:54:06 (3 years 3 months ago)
qwert82 writes:
So do I need to sculpt another pulley onto the engine for the hydrach, or am I misunderstanding something?
It’s stupid to install the rack, the feed and return are looped. The shaft still turns electrically. I understand that this is all a collective farm, but it works without problems. A friend of mine did the same thing and doesn't complain
10 Reply from SRV 03/17/2015 18:56:12 (3 years 3 months ago)
Buldozer , Pavel, write in the topic or PM where you sharpened it, thanks in advance... and not only me, judging by the topic
11 Reply from Pavel 03/17/2015 18:56:52 (3 years 3 months ago)
Here is the master's phone number: +79130234646. Alexei . Any slats are repaired. And a pendant. I send all my friends there.
SRV,
Edited (03/17/2015 18:57:23, 3 years 3 months ago)
+79132139551
12 Reply from pavel230576 03/17/2015 07:23:46 PM (3 years 3 months ago)
The Chinese are in charge, the suspension is all Chinese for pennies, I spent 40 thousand in the villages and knocked, I went to the suspension makers, it turned out one egg needs to be changed
I bought Chinese for 400 rubles and I’m happy
Edited (03/17/2015 19:24:18, 3 years 3 months ago)
Pavel
tel.8-963-574-30-72
13 Reply from Evgeny652 03/17/2015 19:47:02 (3 years 3 months ago)
14 Reply from koksman 03/17/2015 20:15:53 (3 years 3 months ago)
They said that Gridasov has a good raking master
Cashback in more than 900 stores up to 30% for purchases
https://letyshops.com/soc/sh-1?r=2098318
15 Reply from Chungal 03/17/2015 22:47:53 (3 years 3 months ago)
Faraon writes:
These bushings are available for sale on right-hand drive Corollas. In the fall I bet on Fielder - apparently I haven’t called under warranty yet.
Car repair. Inexpensive. Repair of internal combustion engines, suspension, steering racks, short-term repairs.
9I3-О93-I562
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Source: https://price-altai.ru/topic460737.html
Toyota Corolla 150 steering rack repair
| The cost of the “removal/installation” service does not include services for flushing the steering system (service cost 1,000 rubles) and 3D alignment/camber services (service cost 1,100 rubles). | ||
| TOYOTA Corolla (E10) 1993-1997 | 7000 rub. | 3500 rub. |
| TOYOTA Corolla (E10) 1993-1997 manual | 7000 rub. | 3500 rub. |
| TOYOTA Corolla (E11) 1997-2002 | 7000 rub. | 3500 rub. |
| TOYOTA Corolla E120 (E12U, E12J) / Verso 2002-2006 | 7000 rub. | 3500 rub. |
| TOYOTA Corolla E120 (E12U, E12J) / Verso 2002-2006 manual | 7000 rub. | 3500 rub. |
| TOYOTA Corolla E120 (E12U, E12J) / Verso 2006- | 8000 rub. | 3500 rub. |
| TOYOTA Corolla E150 2006- | 8000 rub. | 3500 rub. |
The Toyota Corolla is a reliable vehicle with a body made of durable galvanized steel.
The machine is also equipped with a rack and pinion system, which directly affects the quality of control. The main mechanism here is the steering rack.
Steering problems
If there is a malfunction in the steering rack on the Toyota Corolla 150 model, there will be a deterioration in the vehicle's controllability. Continued operation of the vehicle will be hazardous. In this case, the car should be sent for diagnostics. Diagnostics is the first stage of repair and restoration work.
Next, the rail must be dismantled, carefully inspected, and disassembled. If mud build-ups are observed, they are removed. If necessary, O-rings and seals are replaced. It is important to select new consumables that will fit the steering rack, and then install them on this unit.
Finally, the rack is tested and mounted on the car.
It is worth paying attention to the rack body if the steering wheel becomes difficult to rotate. There may be corrosion on the shaft, which needs to be removed by specialists. In case of independent intervention, there is a high risk that great damage will be caused to the automobile system.
Timely repair of the Toyota Corolla 150 steering rack means the safety of the driver and passengers.
Professional solution to the problem
If you need restoration of the Toyota Corolla 150 steering rack or its professional diagnostics, the right decision would be to make an appointment at the GidroRemont car service center. We have extensive experience in this field and have high-precision diagnostic equipment. Affordable prices for services, as well as the professionalism of our auto mechanics, are our main advantages.
Source: http://gidroremont.moscow/toyota/corolla
Toyota Corolla 120 steering rack repair
3 years Tags: toyota corolla, steering rack. Ah, in this regard)), well, this is a well-known disease of the 120 King, and it occurs both on Japanese-assembled cars and on Turkish and English cars.
On the 120th Corolla, the steering rack was rebuilt and the bushing was replaced. The car is 2006, automatic, Turkish-assembled engine. Contents of the article: Replacing the muffler Toyota Corolla 110 Exhaust repair.
About the logo. The Toyota logo is a triple oval. Two internal ovals located perpendicularly symbolize the strong relationship between the client and the company. In addition, if you look closely and use your imagination a little, in these ovals you can see an image of all six letters of the brand name T, O, Y, O, T, A.
Good evening Has anyone bothered with repairing the steering rack on a Corolla 120? If we are talking about electrical, then we tried it, it cannot be repaired. Reply. Re: Corolla 120 steering rack repair.
History, configuration and OD of Toyota Corolla. I'll get to work on my rack soon! I ordered three pieces at once. And the problem will be solved. Then we unscrew the four bolts securing the beam subframe bracket, on one side, and then on the other.
DIY steering rack “repair” – Toyota Corolla Club Russia
Of course, there are a couple of reports on this procedure on the Internet, but I wanted to post my own, maybe it will be useful to someone.
Be sure to fix the steering wheel in the straight wheel position, otherwise we risk breaking the cable on the airbag, and unhook the battery. We climb under the steering wheel, remove the panel, remove the boot.
After this, do not turn the steering wheel so as not to inadvertently break the SRS Airbag cable. We take off the cardan, unhook the boot. Raise the car, take off the wheels.
Next, unscrew the nut securing the steering tip to the steering knuckle, unscrew it, to disconnect the tip, hit the ear of the steering knuckle with a hammer, but in no case do the same on the tip on the other side.
We disconnect the steering tip. Then we unscrew the four bolts securing the beam subframe bracket. We unscrew the bracket. By the way, on post-restyling Japanese and English models, this bracket is not there, there are just two bolts, one on each side.
By the way, the post-restyling Japanese and English models don’t have these nuts either, they simply unscrew the bolts from above the rack, and the nuts are already welded inside the beam subframe, in this case it’s just more convenient to unscrew them later on the beam subframe that has already been lowered. Rail fastening nuts Continue Unscrewing the last two nuts securing the subframe beam, one on each side.
By the way, on post-restyling Japanese and English cars, there will be bolts instead. Last nuts Carefully lower the subframe beam and pull out the rack. Let's check the subframe and beam Well, the first stage is over, the rest will be more interesting.
We put the rack on the workbench and begin to disassemble it, remove the boot and the steering column shaft. We remove the boot and shaft. Then we pull off the boots and unscrew the steering rods.
We removed the anthers, unscrewed the rods. Carefully pull out the oil seal and use a special wrench to unscrew the nut with an internal octagon. We pulled out the oil seal, unscrewed the nut. We unscrewed the lock nut of the clamping nut and the clamp nut itself. We unscrewed the lock nut and the clamp nut. We pulled out the shaft with the bearing. We pulled out the shaft. We pulled out the rack from the housing. The rack was disassembled. We took out the old rack from the housing. bushing on the right side.
We pull out the diseased tooth We insert a new bushing made of black fluoroplastic We put in a new tooth Using quite a bit of effort we push the rail into the body on the right side where the new bushing is We push it back, you have to tinker and put everything back together in the reverse order.
We will make the final adjustment after a test drive, either leave it like this, or let it go a little if the steering wheel does not return when turning.
Putting everything back together Be sure to core the octagonal nut, tighten the steering rods, don’t forget about the thread adhesive, put the shaft back and put on the boot Reverse assembly That’s it, the rack is ready for installation on the car, assembly is also in the reverse order.
After final assembly, we go to check that the steering wheel returns when turning; if it does not return, we climb under the car again and slightly loosen the clamping nut, do not forget to tighten it then.
“GT” How to remove the steering rack on a Toyota Carina E
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Source: http://bmw-motor.ru/avto22/remont-rulevoy-reyki-toyota-corolla-120.php
Toyota Corolla E120 Steering Rack Repair ~ AUTOREVIEWZ.RU
sp-landscape.spb.ru.
Toyota Corolla (E120) – the right “bug”
Solving problems with knocking on the steering rack. Toyota Corolla 120
Engine 3ZZ FE Link to bushing drawings %
The only serious shortcomings include the capriciousness of the ZZ series engines before 2005 and the knocking of the control racks.
The Toyota Corolla is a blockbuster in the auto industry and is listed in the Guinness Book of Records as the world's best-selling model. The ninth generation Toyota Corolla, designated E 120, was launched in 2000. Sales of Toyota Corolla began in 2001.
The ninth generation Corolla was produced until 2006 in car, hatchback and station wagon versions. Toyota brand cars enjoy considerable fame in the world, thanks to the Toyota style as a reliable and durable car. The Corolla E120 was also faithful to its traditions, giving almost everyone carefree years of ownership.
Although, some “sores” did not manage to bypass the ninth Corolla. First things first though.
The Corolla E120 was equipped with gasoline engines with a VVT-i valve timing configuration mechanism, which were represented by units of 1.4 liters (97 hp), 1.6 liters (110 hp) and 1.8 liters (136 hp). hp). In addition to gasoline engines, you can also find a 2-liter diesel engine (90 hp) on the Corolla.
Toyota engines are generally reliable and durable, ready to reach the 200 thousand km mark without causing any particular problems. Although within thirty percent of the owners they encounter minor problems.
Gasoline engines have a timing chain drive, the replacement of which will occasionally require up to 200 thousand km. Some specimens walked for up to 300 thousand km without replacing it. And the chain tensioner can fall earlier, already at 90 thousand km. As the timing chain tensioner wears out over time, it begins to leak oil.
The peculiarity of the engines is the pulsation of a warm engine at idle speed, from time to time a drop in speed is added to this. This is the main problem with the ZZ series motors. The root cause is the engine control program of the ECU, stitched to the generally accepted standards of Euro 4 and not adapted to our gasoline.
This process cannot be regulated. This appearance is noticeable on engines with a mileage of more than 100 thousand km. Attempts to solve the problem by replacing spark plugs, cleaning injectors and throttles are hindered.
The “ethnic way” of getting rid of pulsation is to increase the idle speed by increasing the load on the engine by connecting electrical consumers.
Engines of the 3ZZ series (1.6 l) are not tolerant of oil starvation. Even if nothing terrible happens immediately afterwards, then the results have every chance of appearing in just 20 - 30 thousand km. With a mileage of more than 110 - 120 thousand km, oil consumption begins to increase. On these engines, the oil level is kept closer to the MAX mark than any other.
In general, ZZ series engines are quite picky about oil. Despite their highest efficiency and good dynamic performance, these engines turned out to be the most “raw” and short-lived.
The service life of the oil scraper rings of the first engines was negligible, despite careful maintenance and gentle operating conditions. The result is increased oil consumption.
The root cause is the loss of mobility of the oil scraper rings in the piston groove due to insufficient oil drainage and ineffective cooling of the piston crown.
Since 2005, 3ZZ engines have been produced with a modified piston system, oil rings and an oil level increased by 0.5 liters. The number of complaints about excessive oil consumption has dropped significantly.
Another feature of the ZZ series engines is the inaccessibility of hydraulic compensators; they are not available on engines of the 4E-FE series (1.4 l). Valve adjustment is carried out by selecting pushers, because shims are not taken into account.
This operation is quite labor-intensive and expensive, and it must be carried out after any 100 - 120 thousand km.
Usually, the need for this begins even later, and almost all owners, for example, do not resort to this procedure.
On ZZ engines before 2003, rattling often occurred in the plastic intake manifold. The root cause is the resonance of the vortex plate. Later the collector system was changed and the problem disappeared.
On engines of the 1NZ series (1.6 l), hydraulic compensators began to be used evenly, significantly facilitating their use. In the midst of problems - the owners have difficulty starting in the cold. By 180 thousand km on these engines, the valve end of the cylinder head begins to “snotty”.
Common problems may include “UTT” (“morning Toyota trouble” - for example, Corolla owners call it) - poor starting in cool weather after a long stay. A virtually incurable feature. With mileage in the range of 110 - 120 thousand.
km has the opportunity to require replacement of the VVT-i timing clutch, thermostat and the rear crankshaft oil seal begins to leak. By 140 thousand km, the poly V-belt tensioner bearing begins to whistle and the rubber tip of the ignition coil cracks. Subsequently, the mark of 140 thousand.
km, a crack may appear at the intake manifold flange, close to the throttle valve. The oxygen sensors will also need to be replaced soon. The engine mount cushions have every chance of being ready for replacement when the mileage exceeds 160 thousand km. Overheating of the engine will immediately require replacing the valve stem seals.
With a mileage of more than 220 thousand km, there were cases of burnout of the intake valves. The reason for difficult starting is the possible freezing of the damaged fuel filter in the fuel pump. If a warm engine does not start, it means the camshaft sensor has died.
Interruptions in engine operation often occur as a result of contamination of the mass air flow sensor (global air flow sensor). By 140 thousand km, the bearing of the air conditioning compressor begins to make noise.
There is very little information on diesel engines, although they do not cause huge problems for their owners. Excellent diesel fuel and regular oil changes guarantee a long service life of the diesel engine.
A Toyota Corolla with a 1.4 liter engine consumes in the metropolis within 11-12 liters per 100 km, more powerful 1.6 liter and 1.8 liter engines consume a little less than 10 - 11 liters. On the highway, everyone's consumption is approximately the same 6 - 7 liters. The record holder is a diesel unit with a consumption of 4-5 liters on the highway.
1.4 liter engines are paired only with a manual transmission. Other engines are mixed, both with a manual and, for example, an automatic transmission.
A manual transmission urgently requires an oil change after any 50 thousand km. Some owners encountered the first problems already after driving 100 thousand km - this is the occurrence of a squeaking noise when the clutch is pressed, which is caused by the head cylinder rod and the pedal mounting space.
A creaking sound when pressed appears when there is humidity in the cabin and comes from the clutch pedal return spring. By this time, there may be a rumble in the box, a “weak space” - the front bearings of the initial and secondary shafts, and for example bearings 3 - its transmission. With a mileage of more than 120 thousand.
km from time to time there were problems with gear shifting. The clutch walks within 150 thousand km.
The AISIN automatic transmission is not that fast and is generally quite reliable. Occasionally, obstacles appear earlier than 200–250 thousand km. Some specimens survived to the 600 thousand km mark.
The car, of course, does not prefer slipping, which has every chance of leading to its failure. The problem with U series gearboxes is the appearance of howling at more than 120 thousand km, the key is the front planetary gearbox due to the free movement of the satellites on the axles.
If you delay the repair, it can break the oil seal, squeeze out the oil, and a dry trip will lead to failure of the clutches. Current repairs will cost 20 - 25 thousand rubles. With a mileage of more than 180 thousand.
km, the gearshift cable is likely to be twisted, which will not allow you to return the box to “P” mode and start the engine after parking.
There are no complaints about the bodywork, if the car has not been involved in a tragedy. The metal and paint coating steadily resists the brutal environment.
On the oldest copies, which are already 10 years old, cracking of the external rubber bands at the bottom of the door windows can be noticed.
Toyota Corolla body parts for the Euro and Japanese markets are mostly interchangeable, but for the South American market they are individual, differing in fastenings. When selecting hardware rather than any other, use your personal VIN code.
Corollas of 2003 - 2004 were subject to a global recall due to problems with door locks. On the conveyor belt, lubricants were pushed there with all their hearts, which thickened over time and the lock jammed. Dealers in car service centers removed them, washed them and installed them back. If one of the doors does not lock after the central lock, most likely the root cause is rich lubrication.
“Crickets” don’t exactly adore the interior of the Corolla in the back of the E120. They can be seen in the plastic above the speedometer and in the glass of the dashboard. If squeaks occur in the upper corners of the dashboard or at the bottom of the front pillars, remove the hood hinge and place a piece of porous rubber between the fender and the hood; silence should reign in the cabin.
On older cars the windshield may appear to run off. Over time, the steering wheel does not fix well in height, the root cause is the weakening of the spring and fixation nuts; they need to be tightened.
The manager is the weakest space of the ninth generation Toyota Corolla. Knock on the steering rack is a disease that haunts almost all Corolla car enthusiasts. It can be noticed already after a mileage of more than 60 thousand km.
There is nothing catastrophic in this, and the rattling rail lasts for a long time, causing only discomfort, but not affecting security. The root cause of the knocking sound is wear of the plastic bushings inside the rack. The cardinal conclusion is that replacing the rack will cost 15–16 thousand rubles, although the problem will return after 60 thousand km.
A more accessible solution is to wind the foil onto the shaft inside the plastic bushings; the problem will be resolved for 50 - 60 thousand km. Depending on the configuration, the Toyota E120 was equipped with electric or power steering, which is even more reliable.
When the electric power steering becomes heavy, it is enough to remove the terminals from the battery for a while, after which everything returns to normal.
The chassis cannot be called unkillable, although it is quite durable. Wheel bearings are the first to go, usually when the mileage is more than 100 thousand km, then the front silent blocks, stabilizer bushings and front shock absorbers come in line. The ends of the control rods extend 100 - 150 thousand km.
Front brake discs are operational up to 100 thousand km, rear brakes up to 150 - 200 thousand km. Front brake pads urgently require replacement after any 40 - 50 thousand km, and rear brake pads after 70 - 100 thousand km.
When servicing brakes, special attention should be paid to the condition of the caliper boot. To 140 – 150 thousand.
km may appear to leak brake water due to the destruction of the boot, small dust getting on the piston and cuff and their abrasion. The repair kit will cost 1000 rubles
Electrics sometimes show themselves to be “childhood diseases”. The first one in the list is a sound signal, from time to time it plays “silent”, triggering every other time. The problem is with him personally. Malfunction of the Bendix on the starter is a common occurrence; occasionally someone goes more than 100 thousand km without replacing it.
Symptoms: interruptions in starting, operation every other time, buzzing without cranking the engine. The Air Bag control cable in the control column is likely to be broken. By 200 thousand km, the generator bearings “get tired”, making a rumble.
If the wipers stop connecting, then most likely the contact on the switch has become unsoldered. And if the windshield washers stop working, the wire in the washer pump connector has rotted. Often to 120 thousand.
km, the lighting in the cabin stops turning on and the alarm turns on when the doors are opened, the root cause is the souring of the limit switch. From time to time, “glitches” appear in watches and radios, some of which lose their backlight. More often than others, the backlight of the climate/air conditioning switch burns out.
Some owners complain about the periodic disappearance of contact on the fuse box in the passenger compartment. The list is completed by a “glitch” of power windows, which is expressed in the spontaneous opening of the windows or the inability to steer them. The root cause is water getting inside the door as a result of deep puddles or washing.
In general, the Toyota Corolla is a satisfactory car. Almost everyone believes that it is impeccable for our operating criteria. The only serious shortcomings include the capriciousness of the ZZ series engines before 2005 and the knocking of the control racks. The possibility of meeting with other problems is quite low.
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Source: http://autoreviewz.ru/remont-rulevoj-rejki-tojota-korolla-e120/
Replacing the Toyota Corolla Steering Rack Bushing
Repair of the Corolla control rack in the 120 body
Quite expensive and labor-intensive tuning with the replacement of the Toyota Corolla 120 steering column can be done both at a service station for Toyota cars, and in your garage with your own hands. But, before going to great lengths, you need to make sure that the cause of the extraneous knocks that are heard in the steering wheel and body is precisely a faulty steering rack.
In the experience of car enthusiasts described in the article, there are also easier repair methods.
Diagnostics of the steering rack from experienced
Turn off the engine and begin to rock the steering wheel from side to side with a swing of about 5-7 cm. If you hear a tapping sound, then the cause is the steering system mechanisms. However, if the knocking sounds like a clicking sound somewhere very close under the steering wheel, then this is a sound from an electrical cable. You shouldn't pay attention to him.
Toyota Corolla steering mechanisms include a steering column, cardan shafts, as well as the steering rack itself with rods and ends. The malfunction of an individual mechanism is best determined by the method of exclusion.
First you need to rule out faulty tips as the cause of the knocking. Replacing the upper oil seal of the Nissan Almera n16 steering rack. An assistant will be needed here. Repairing the steering rack of a Toyota Corolla 120. When he gently rocks the steering wheel from side to side, you need to grab the tips with your palm one by one. In a faulty hinge with large play that requires repair, the sound will be felt in the palm of your hand.
The steering column itself or the shaft extending from it to the rack rarely fails. The steering rack suffers much more with high mileage. Are you looking for a replacement upper steering rack oil seal for Nissan Almera n16? Watch the detailed video and read useful information. In addition, it rusts badly from dampness and salt. This can also cause its premature failure.
Steering rack lubrication
One of the most cost-effective ways to restore a Toyota Corolla steering rack is to repair it without dismantling it. Replacing the steering rack oil seal for Nissan n16 seregin57. Nissan Almera).
For this operation, you need to stock up on an M6 grease nipple with a rubber cap for it and Mannol lubricant in the amount of 400 g.
It is also necessary to select a suitable drill and tap for cutting threads for the oil can.
The picture shows two oil cans with caps, but for this repair you need to choose one. The one for which there is both a drill and a tap.
Replacing steering bushing Toyota corolla 150
Engine 3ZZ FE Link to bushing .
Solving problems with knocking on the steering rack. Toyota Corolla 120
How to remove a knock in the steering wheel, without a new bushing , Kolkhoz. How to remove a knock in the steering wheel of a Toyota Corolla 120. Part 1.
Next, you need to drive the car into the pit and arrange good lighting at the location of the steering rack. In the rack itself, choose a place where you can get close with a drill, thread-cutting tool and syringe press.
In the chosen location, we first drill a hole, then we try to extract as much as possible of the chips and metal chips formed during drilling. Replacing the timing chain of Toyota Corolla 1.6 and 1.4 with your own.
Replacing the timing chain is the first step to replacing the timing chain on Toyota Corolla 1.6 2008 and others.
Is it possible to repair the steering rack yourself? In what cases will a complete replacement of the mechanism be necessary? To do this, you can use a vacuum cleaner and all kinds of wire hooks with strips of rags.
Moreover, we do the drilling very carefully so that after passing through the rack body the drill does not go deeper and damage other parts.
We cut the thread and screw the oiler into the hole. To prevent spontaneous unscrewing of the oiler during further operation, you can apply a thread locker to its threaded part before screwing it in. This composition is sold at any auto store. Buy the smallest volume offered.
Next, using a syringe press, fill the column with lubricant.
The amount of lubricant for repair was taken arbitrarily - 400 g. We wipe the surface of the rack next to the grease can and put a rubber cap on it. It is noticed that the steering wheel becomes a little heavier, but the rack knocks are no longer audible.
About the versatility of repair and related issues
This repair can be considered universal for most cars, both for the Toyota Corolla 120 and for models of the Toyota family that are later and belong to a higher class of models.
And yet, before you decide to drill the rack , you need to check two more crosspieces of the steering mechanism, which are located in the cabin under the steering wheel, for play.
Another source of knocking may be the telescopic pipe that regulates the reach of the steering wheel.
Quite often, the knocking comes from these parts, and it will be very disappointing when, even after all the work of filling the rack with lubricant, the knocking does not stop.
Sometimes crosspieces with large gaps are installed directly at the manufacturer, and they begin to knock after a short mileage. Despite the brand name of the car, sometimes the cause of knocking can be the bolts for fixing the crosspieces on the shaft. The content of the article.
Do-it-yourself steering rack bulkhead for Nissan Almera n16; Replacing the steering rack oil seal in a Nissan Almera n16. Replacing the Almera n16 rack oil seal. In this article we will look at how to replace the steering rack oil seal on a Nissan Almera n16.
They are often not straightened, they turn away and knocking noises arise in these joints.
It is the Toyota Corolla steering racks that begin to make knocking noises and usually require repairs only after a mileage of more than 100 thousand kilometers.
First of all, the knock begins to be heard when the wheels hit uneven roads - potholes and potholes. Complete replacement of the steering rack, Toyota steering rack, Toyota Corolla rack.
This sound is quite loud, but has a dull tint and does not radiate to the steering wheel; vibration shocks are not felt by your hands.
More about lubrication
For this type of service of the Toyota Corolla 120 steering rack, the recommended lubricant is AZMOL FIOL-1. If we compare it with Lithols, then it wins greatly, since it belongs to NLGI class 1 and is characterized by low viscosity even at low temperatures. In addition, this lubricant does not contain molybdenum disulfides, which can adversely affect the polymer elements of the steering rack.
Source
Source: http://avto-melvin.ru/zamena-vtulki-rulevoj-rejki-tojota-korolla/
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