How to replace piston rings in an engine yourself

How to replace piston rings yourself

As a rule, a motorist needs to replace piston rings with his own hands in several cases. The cost of work at a service station today is unreasonably high, and this forces many owners, even those who have never done repairs before, to take up the key.

In addition, even after paying for repairs at the service center, you are never one hundred percent sure that everything was done efficiently. The era of wild capitalism, in which our country remains to this day, pushes some false specialists to adventures and frauds related to the replacement of used parts with failed or sometimes even new elements.

We wrote this article for the purpose of practical assistance to drivers who decide to replace the engine piston rings themselves.

Piston rings require replacement, as a rule, regardless of the mileage of the car. This procedure mainly depends on the quality of the oil poured into the engine, the frequency of its replacement, etc. Let’s find out first, what symptoms will indicate their failure?

The new set of pistons, rings and bushings looks nice

Has your car started to consume more fuel? This is one of the first symptoms indicating that the rings are worn out and require replacement. The fact is that when the piston rings wear out, engine compression decreases (more on this below).

This forces the driver of the vehicle to press harder on the gas, trying to get the engine to work as before. As a result, either the spark plugs are filled with fuel due to an over-enriched mixture, or excess gasoline ends up in the crankcase.

The engine starts to stall and fuel consumption increases.

Engine power may also decrease. Many experienced drivers use this feature to determine the time when they need to change the rings.

And this is correct, because engine power directly depends on the condition of the rings. The entire piston group must provide the required level of compression for the engine to function optimally.

There is even a special compression value, which normally should be 9.

Wear of pistons, piston rings

Increased oil consumption, as a rule, in most cases is complemented by a decrease in engine power. The oil scraper rings do not have time to remove residual lubricant from the surface of the cylinder, and as a result, excess oil enters the combustion chamber. Here, what does not have time to burn, flies into the catalyst and exits through the exhaust pipe.

Here's the next symptom: when blue smoke comes out of the muffler, this indicates oil combustion. But increased oil consumption cannot always be considered a sign indicating wear of the piston rings . A motor becomes an “oil eater” for several reasons, and you can read about this in specialized literature.

Piston rings are capable of performing several functions simultaneously.

Sealing the combustion chamber, thereby preventing gases from entering the crankcase.
Piston rings protect the piston itself from overheating. The fact is that heat is constantly concentrated on the piston head, and the rings are able to direct it to the cylinder, which is intensively washed by coolant.
Thanks to the piston rings, the oil film is evenly distributed over the surface of the cylinder. In addition, oil must not penetrate directly into the combustion chamber itself.

For the rings to work effectively, they must fit evenly across the entire surface of the cylinder. After a certain time, the cylinder itself changes its shape, thereby increasing the gaps in the channels. Thus, the elasticity of the rings is impaired. What happens next is clear. The seal is broken, gases penetrate into the crankcase, and increased wear of the entire piston group begins.

In a word, when these parts are worn out, only a competent procedure for replacing piston rings with new ones will help solve the problems described above. Below is an algorithm for replacing rings with your own hands.

Many novice drivers are afraid to perform the operation themselves, since they have to remove the engine.

In addition, the process itself seems complicated only at first glance and requires highly specialized knowledge.

We hasten to calm you down. This is not entirely true. Even one person who is not particularly versed in all the specifics will be able to replace the rings with new ones. In most cases, you don’t even need to remove the engine; having certain tools is enough. But more about everything.

I would like to note that you still have to determine whether the engine needs to be removed or not. There is a special method for this, which involves removing the head. The cylinders are visually inspected and their condition is assessed. First of all, attention is drawn to defects that may be visible on the walls of the sleeves.

It is best to ask someone who knows how to check everything and tell you whether the engine needs to be dismantled or not, so that everything is done correctly from the very beginning.

If you are 100% sure that only the rings have “flyed” and you don’t need either boring the cylinder block or major engine repairs, then you definitely don’t need to remove the engine.

I would like to warn you that removing the cylinder head is not difficult, but putting it back together is not so easy. That is why it is better not to take on checking the condition yourself. If you know a specialist in this field, then ask him. The verification procedure will not take much time, and, most likely, the specialist will agree.

DIY piston ring replacement algorithm

First you need to acquire the following tools:

a set of heads with a ratchet;
a set of keys;
torque wrench;
crimp for rings, which you can make yourself;
hex keys.

In addition, of course, you must definitely buy a new set of piston rings. When purchasing, be sure to pay attention to the type of packaging and the rings themselves.

As a rule, a high-quality product looks attractive, is correctly painted and does not imply any mistakes. The markings are accurately marked to indicate the top and bottom of the ring, and the packaging itself should be designed accordingly, with good design.

If you buy low-quality rings, then the entire replacement process will not cost a damn.

It is advisable to remove the oil pan after draining the oil. In addition, professionals advise also dismantling the oil pump, which will also need to be checked for wear.

Let's proceed directly to the process of replacing the rings.

Remove the positive terminal from the battery.
Drain the antifreeze.
The decorative trim of the engine is removed by unscrewing 4 nuts.
We dismantle the intake manifold. To do this, you will need to remove the throttle valve cable. Then disconnect the entire throttle assembly, remove the ignition coil and all the armor wires. All hoses located on the top of the manifold are removed. The clamps connecting the upper pipes to the lower ones are loosened. During the process of disconnecting the hoses, it is advisable to remember everything as is, or take a photograph, so that there is no confusion during assembly.
Remove the valve cover by disconnecting all hoses and unscrewing the bolts.
All attachments are removed from the engine.
The fuel hoses are dismantled and the contact going to the fan switch sensor is disconnected.
Unscrew the two bolts securing the thermostat. And here all the hoses must either be completely removed or (if the design of a particular car allows) moved to the side.
Then the following are dismantled: the generator roller and the timing belt cover.
Unscrew the timing belt tension roller. We remove the belt, and then dismantle the camshaft pulleys. In this case, you need to be very careful not to lose the keys. Remove the second part of the plastic casing. During this work, to prevent the camshaft from spinning, it is fixed using a thin pry bar.
Now we remove the exhaust manifold, first removing the casing from it. Note: when reassembling the exhaust manifold, it is advisable to replace the old nuts with new copper ones.
We remove the connectors from all motor sensors. We also remove the entire wiring harness going to the injectors.
Now we need to remove the cylinder head. 10 bolts are unscrewed in a strictly defined order.
We climb under the car. The pan should already be removed here. Unscrew the three bolts on the oil intake and remove the part by gently rocking it.
We turn the crankshaft so that the desired piston is at bottom dead center.
Remove the connecting rod cover and push the pistons of all cylinders upward.
We clean carbon deposits from the pistons.
We remove the old rings and install new ones. First of all, the oil scraper ring is installed. At the end, the rings are necessarily tightened with a special mandrel.
We perform reverse assembly.

This completes the process of replacing piston rings. Do not forget about the nominal gap when installing the rings, which should be equal to 0.25–0.45 mm. When installing piston rings, do not forget to lubricate them and the parts in contact with them with oil.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yMUClcDkpZw

After replacing the piston rings, you can verify the quality of work and check the internal condition of the unit. Financial costs in the case of competent DIY replacement are reduced by as much as four times compared to repairs even in the cheapest, artisanal workshop.

Source: http://365cars.ru/remont/kak-delaetsja-zamena-porshnevyh-kolec.html

Replacing piston rings without removing the engine, video, do it yourself

The fact that the car requires replacement of the piston rings, and not some other repair work, will be indicated by the engine itself. The signs of such a malfunction appear quite clearly, so it will be difficult not to notice them. But before we talk about the symptoms, you need to understand what the rings are and what role they play in the operation of the engine.

What are piston rings and their purpose

Piston rings are elastic, open elements that are installed in special grooves on the piston body. They are made of high-strength steel or cast iron, and covered with an alloying material on top. The alloy coating further increases strength and also reduces wear rates.

Typically, 3 rings are inserted into the piston: 2 compression rings (occupying the 2 upper grooves) and 1 oil scraper ring (the lower groove).

The purpose of the compression rings is to prevent hot gases from breaking through along the piston into the engine crankcase. Oil scraper - removes excess oil from the cylinder mirror, preventing it from entering the combustion chamber.

In addition, the rings reduce the temperature of the piston, transferring almost half of the heat from its surface to the cylinder walls.

When the piston rings no longer cope with the tasks assigned to them due to their wear, the car engine signals this by displaying the corresponding symptoms.

Signs of piston ring wear

Blue or black smoke from the exhaust pipe indicates that wear has reached a critical stage. This indicates that excess oil entered the combustion chamber past the oil scraper ring and burned there along with the fuel. Black smoke coming out of the crankcase ventilation tube indicates that the compression rings, due to wear, allow gases to escape from the combustion chamber into its cavity.

Critical wear is accompanied by a decrease in compression (the ability to maintain pressure) in the engine cylinders.

This means that some of the gases formed during the combustion of the fuel mixture, which was supposed to push the piston, broke into the crankcase without performing useful work.

This is what will lead to a drop in pressure in the cylinder, therefore, the engine will lose some power. Increased oil consumption is observed.

Compression is checked with a special device - a compression meter.

When the nominal pressure values are unknown (there are no operating instructions), it is first measured in a dry cylinder, then a little engine oil is poured through the spark plug hole, and the measurement is made again. If the compression increases, then the rings need to be replaced. Similar signs can be observed in the case of their “occurrence”.

This problem, if the case is not very advanced, can be corrected with the help of special fuel additives. For an engine with a carburetor system, you can try cleaning it with a carbon remover spray that is injected directly into the carburetor. If removing carbon deposits from the combustion chamber has no effect, then there is only one way out - replacing the piston rings and cleaning the grooves.

How to replace piston rings yourself

Of course, replacing rings is a rather labor-intensive procedure. It requires accuracy and certain skills, but by and large there is nothing complicated about it (unless you remove the engine). To do this you need:

remove the cylinder head, following all the recommendations of the car manufacturer;
drain the oil, remove the flywheel protection and engine sump;
remove the oil intake;
Having turned the crankshaft, set the desired piston to bottom dead center;
unscrew the connecting rod cover and remove it;
pull the piston along with the connecting rod out of the cylinder, pushing it upward with a wooden strip;
clean the piston from carbon deposits. Based on its marking, determine the piston class, purchase a new set of piston rings corresponding to it;
Before installation, each new ring is first inserted into the cylinder to check the clearance in the lock. The gap must correspond to the value specified in the vehicle's operating manual. If it is less than necessary, then the ends of the lock are carefully filed with a file;
The pistons are thoroughly cleaned of carbon deposits. The holes intended for draining oil are also cleaned with a suitable wooden stick. The cleaned grooves are lubricated with clean engine oil;
The rings are put on starting with the oil scraper. On one side of the ring is marked “TOP” (up), which indicates how it should be installed in the piston. The locks must be installed at 120 degrees relative to each other. This will prevent gases from penetrating through them. You cannot put the rings on in a “twist”; such installation may be accompanied by the appearance of microcracks, which will lead to their breakage;
Reassemble in the reverse order, simultaneously cleaning everything with a clean rag and lubricating it with fresh engine oil. Pistons must be installed exactly in the cylinders from which they were removed. Also, the connecting rod caps with connecting rod bearings must be put on the same connecting rods from which they were removed.

If the wear of the connecting rod bearings allows them to be reused, then there is no need to replace them, since this will require boring the crankshaft journals. You won’t be able to do this kind of work on your own without experience.

Tools required for work

To replace the rings you will need:

sets of open-end and ring wrenches, as well as wrenches with an extension and heads with a nominal value of 10 – 19;
torque wrench;
specialist. crimp (mandrel).

In addition, you will need an oil-resistant sealant. It will come in handy when installing the oil pan and valve cover gaskets.

And there seems to be nothing complicated in the steps listed above, if the replacement is made without removing the engine from the car. However, there are nuances without which an engine with new rings will not work for a long time. When the cylinder reaches the extreme stage of wear, a “step” is formed on the surface of its mirror.

Having hit it, the new ring will either break immediately or get a crack, which will ultimately lead to its failure. In addition, the grooves of the old piston also have wear, so grinding new rings to the cylinder will be difficult or completely impossible.

This means that it is better to entrust the troubleshooting of the piston group and cylinders to professionals.

Boring and honing of cylinders should also be carried out by qualified specialists. In addition, this work cannot be done without removing the engine.

Therefore, before getting down to business, you should think carefully and realistically assess your strengths and capabilities.

So that the result of the repair would not be the replacement of the piston group as a whole, or even worse, it would not be necessary to submit the engine for a major overhaul.

Source: http://AutoLirika.ru/remont/zamena-porshnevyh-kolec.html

Replacing piston rings

In what case may it be necessary to replace piston rings and how to determine that the engine requires this type of repair.

To give an accurate answer to this question, as well as to another: will engine repair cost only by replacing the rings, or will an autopsy reveal more serious problems that will require more serious investment?
As experience shows, quite often, if you want to change only the piston rings, after opening the head, other engine diseases appear that the engine suffered from in secret from you.

So, the symptoms indicate the need to replace the piston rings:

A decrease in engine power is most often the main reason why a car owner decides to change the rings, because the power produced by the engine very much depends on the condition of the rings and the overall condition of the piston group, which must provide the proper level of compression necessary for optimal engine operation. So that when engine thrust decreases, drivers often first suspect the piston rings.

Oil consumption increases - this symptom most often comes as a bonus to the first, since worn oil scraper rings do not have time to remove oil from the cylinder walls, as a result it ends up in the combustion chambers, where what has managed to burn will burn out, and what has not will fly into the catalyst or just into a pipe. Also, you shouldn’t think that if oil consumption appears, then the piston rings are to blame for everything, there are quite a few reasons why the engine became an oil eater, read about it in detail here.
But even here, not everything is so simple. In some cases, when oil consumption occurs due to the fault of the piston rings, there may not be a loss of compression, since the oil on the cylinder walls can become an additional seal. In such cases, it is better to go to an exhaust diagnostics center, where you They will determine the percentage of oil burned and from here you can find out what the reason is.
Along with oil consumption, fuel consumption also increases, since when the rings get stuck, the compression level drops, and therefore the pilot will press harder on the gas in order to try to get the engine to work normally. The result of such attempts will be either spark plugs filled with gasoline, due to an over-enriched fuel-air system. mixture, or diesel fuel in the crankcase, which does not have time to burn out in the cylinder due to lack of oxygen and due to its fluidity, will easily enter the sump through worn piston rings. In both of these situations, the engine will probably stall.

Next, you should immediately decide whether you will remove the engine or replace it without removing it.

In order to decide on this issue, I advise you to remove the head in place in order to find out the condition of the cylinders, or rather the wear and tear, or to detect other defects on the walls of the liner; perhaps the engine was overheated at some point, and due to scuffs that appeared on the cylinder walls, the piston rings became unusable.

In general, you open the head and it will become clear whether to remove the motor or not. By the way, there are motors that until you remove them, you cannot open the pan.
It may turn out that what is required is not just replacing the rings, but boring the cylinder block, since if wear is detected, no new rings will help.

Therefore, it is worth thinking about this scenario, and also whether you have enough money for a new set of pistons, paying for the work of a boring master and other expenses. In short, a harmless replacement of piston rings can result in a full-scale overhaul of the engine.

Here, for example, are recommendations for installing piston rings from the manufacturer of piston rings MAHLE, such a recommendation is found in every package of piston rings from this manufacturer. The original is written in broken Russian, apparently the Germans, like the Chinese, do not get along with Russian. The text has been slightly corrected.

Source: http://yamotorist.ru/index.php/kak/zamena-porshnevyh-kolec

VAZ 2101: replacing piston rings on your own

Piston rings

As a rule, in Zhiguli cars with an age of more than 150,000, the wear on the piston group is already quite significant, and if you are also the owner of, to put it mildly, a little used “penny” that is being repaired by someone unknown and when, then in 90% of cases you will have to replace the piston with a VAZ 2101.

Causes of wear

Here are some of the signs of wear that you should look out for first:

Increased fuel consumption;
Significant oil loss (max-min level per thousand kilometers);
Exhaust gases have a bluish tint;
Engine compression is less than 9.

Unfortunately, if you notice all these signs in your car, then the engine can only be helped by replacing the VAZ 2101 piston.
The most critical element in the engine piston group is the piston rings, which simultaneously perform several functions:

Sealing the combustion chamber (prevents gases from entering the engine crankcase);
Protecting the piston from overheating by transferring heat from its head to the cylinder, which is intensively washed with coolant;
Uniform distribution of the oil film over the surface of the cylinder, while preventing oil from penetrating into the combustion chamber.

For optimal operation, the rings must fit evenly and tightly to the entire surface of the cylinder , however, over time, the geometry of the cylinder changes, the gaps in the piston grooves and at the joints of the rings increase, and their elasticity is impaired.
As a result, the sealing is broken, gases penetrate into the engine crankcase, and increased wear of the entire piston group begins.

Piston ring operation

As wear increases, the amount of gases increases, crankcase ventilation cannot cope and the pressure in it increases significantly, which helps to squeeze out oil through the crankshaft seals, gaskets and distributor socket.

This unpleasant situation can be corrected by replacing the piston rings on a VAZ 2101, especially since the cost of replacement is much lower than the cost of repairing the entire engine, since for this procedure we only need new rings and gaskets for the pan and cylinder head.

Special tools include a piston ring crimper and a torque wrench, although you can do DIY repairs without them, after all, what difference does it make where your hands come from, as long as they are golden!

So, replacing the piston rings of a VAZ 2101 takes place on an overpass or in a pit, without removing the engine:

Drain the oil and coolant. Since we will no longer use the old oil, we unscrew the oil filter;
We dismantle all the “attached” equipment that prevents us from unscrewing the pan and cylinder head, namely the exhaust pipe, air filter, gas drive with choke cable, valve cover and starter;
We unscrew the bolt and remove the camshaft sprocket, having previously secured it with a screwdriver;

Removing the camshaft sprocket

Unscrew and remove the camshaft bed and the block head;

Camshaft bed

Cylinder head

Unscrew the fastening of the left engine mount, lift it and unscrew the pan;
We unscrew the connecting rod caps and, together with the connecting rods, push the piston up;
We very carefully inspect the pistons for cracks and chips; if the inspection is satisfactory, we remove the old rings, clean the grooves on the pistons from carbon deposits and install new rings.

Removing old rings

At this stage you are given the opportunity to practice installing the rings. That is, test with your own hands the elasticity of the metal, the thickness of the groove, try to pull it out and put the ring in place without fear of breaking it.

Cleaning the piston grooves

Cleaning the groove

The World Wide Web is full of photo material on how to replace piston rings on a VAZ 2110. But since we do all the work with our own hands, which requires a minimum of special tools, I suggest an option for cleaning the grooves for the rings - cleaning with the ring itself (which was pulled out from there, of course).

Checking piston ring clearances

In this paragraph we have only two points:

Side clearance;
End clearance.

In the first case, the calculated (nominal) gap between the groove wall and the first compression ring should be 0.045-0.08 mm, the second compression ring should be 0.025-0.06 mm and, accordingly, the oil scraper ring should be 0.02-0.055 mm. Wear tolerance for all gaps is 0.015mm.

Side clearance

In the second case, the gap for all new rings should be 0.25-0.45 mm. Wear tolerance is 1mm.

End clearance

If there is a small gap, grind off the rings.

Stitching the ring

If it is large, replace it.

Installing rings on the piston

Once again, to what was said above, I repeat - this instruction implies that replacing the piston rings of a VAZ 2101 is done only with your own hands, in a private garage.
Therefore, by default, we do not have any “sophisticated” tools and use available materials to install the rings on the piston and the entire piston with rings into the cylinder. In our case, this is... a tin can.

Installation of rings

We cut out metal strips from a tin can and install them around the entire circumference, at even intervals;

We move the desired ring along the metal strips to the bottom until it is opposite its seat;
We lift the strips up, while the rings fall into the groove;
The operation is then repeated for all rings.

Of course, you can perform this action with your bare hands, but the risk of breaking the rings and scratching the piston is too great.

Installing a piston into an engine cylinder

Lubricate the piston rings with oil, insert them into the cylinder block from above and, using a homemade mandrel, insert the piston into the cylinder.

Insert the piston

Assembly process

Next we assemble in reverse order:

We install the oil pump;

Oil pump installation

We install a new pan gasket and the pan itself;
We lower the engine into place and fasten the left support;
Having previously lubricated it with graphite grease, install a new cylinder head gasket, guiding it along the center bushings;
When installing the cylinder head, following the manufacturer’s instructions, tighten the cylinder head mounting bolts in a certain order and with the indicated force, in four steps:

In the established order, we tighten the bolts with a torque of 20 N/m (about half the force);
The same, but with more force, with a torque of 70 N/m;
In the same order, all bolts are tightened;
And once again we stretch it to .

Cylinder head tightening procedure

Using the marks, we establish the position of the crankshaft and, aligning the marks with the help of an asterisk, mount the camshaft bed;
We put the sprocket itself in place with the chain on it and tighten the bolt securing it;
We tighten the chain and turn the engine a couple of revolutions to make sure that the crankshaft and chain tension marks are installed correctly;
In the final part, we install all the “attached” equipment in place, install a new oil filter, fill in coolant and oil, install the battery terminal and start the engine.

I hope that in this article I have clearly outlined how to replace piston rings on a VAZ 2110 with your own hands.

In conclusion, I would like to give one last piece of advice regarding running in the engine after repairs.

Since we have the same diagnosis - we are the owners of domestic Zhiguli cars, the selection of spare parts must be approached with special attention. No one is immune from purchasing low-quality components.

Therefore, to prevent possible deviations (shrinkage, foreign inclusions in the metal structure, temperature deformation), it is recommended to drive the first thousand kilometers with a load of no more than 50% of the nominal load, after which the oil should be changed.

And those who are especially suspicious are allowed to extend the break-in period to five thousand, with oil changes at the first and fifth thousand kilometers.

Source: http://MasteraVaza.ru/dvigatel/porshni/vaz-2101-zamena-porshnevyh-kolec-91

How to replace piston rings without removing the engine?

The service life of piston rings is not tied to scheduled maintenance. Although under ideal operating conditions this should be the case. In reality, they are replaced when compression decreases.

If a major overhaul of the engine is not planned, a replacement can be carried out without removing the power unit. It is quite “comfortable” to change the piston rings without removing the engine on in-line fours with a transverse arrangement.

The press release was prepared by specialists from the mileage adjustment website Krutilka-spidometra.ru. We always have a professional speedometer twister in stock - which will increase your mileage without any trace of intervention in the system and at the time you need. Quality guarantee for all devices, fast delivery in Moscow and throughout Russia.

As an example - vase. replacing the piston on a classic without removing the engine

No special equipment is required for this, except perhaps a crimping mandrel. It is advisable to install the car on an overpass, or use a garage pit. You can change the piston rings without removing the engine by placing the front end on supports, but it is inconvenient to work this way.

The order of work is as follows:

Drain the engine oil and coolant.
We remove the cylinder head.
Remove the engine sump.
Unscrew the lower connecting rod clamps.
We push out the pistons with connecting rods.

Then we change the rings in the usual way, driving the pistons into the cylinder head. We install the head in place, screw the lower clamps of the connecting rods.

Any garage mechanic knows how to remove the piston on a classic VAZ without removing the engine. But with foreign cars everything is somewhat more complicated.

Replacing piston rings without removing the engine - detailed technology

Before starting work, you must prepare a set of tools and consumables in accordance with the maintenance and repair manual. Having disassembled the engine, it is advisable not to leave it in this state for several days while you look for spare parts.

The rings are changed in the following order:

- Disconnect and remove the battery from the engine compartment.
- Relieve the pressure in the fuel rail (applies to internal combustion engines with an injection system).
- We dismantle connecting cables and attachments that may interfere with the repair.

Advice. When disassembling the motor, it is advisable to photograph the process, this will allow you to avoid mistakes during reassembly.

- We drain technical fluids: antifreeze, oil.
- Remove the intake and exhaust manifolds.
- We dismantle the fuel rail, unscrew the spark plugs (the holes must be plugged with a clean rag).
- If there are sensors on the cylinder head, it is advisable to unscrew them.
- Unscrew the head mounting bolts.

Important! They are twisted and twisted in a strictly defined order. See car service instructions.

- After rocking it a little, remove the cylinder head. There is another way - after freeing the connecting rods, remove the piston assembly, along with the head.
- We remove the pan and inspect the condition of the crankshaft.
- We turn the crankshaft, alternately lowering the connecting rods to bottom dead center. This will make it easier to remove the pistons.
- Unscrew the nuts securing the lower connecting rod caps and push the piston up.

Important! Fasteners, connecting rod caps, the pistons themselves must be marked (relative position). Assembly is carried out in strict accordance with the previous installation.

- We check and service the piston engine according to standard maintenance procedures. It is advisable to measure the diameter and geometry of the cylinder walls. The surface may need to be bored and honed. In this case, you will have to buy a set of repair rings.
- We compress the rings with a mandrel, install the pistons into the pre-lubricated cylinders.
- Carefully (preferably with an assistant) insert the connecting rods into the crankcase and lower them until they are installed on the crankshaft journal.
- We fasten the lower connecting rod caps, maintaining the tightening torque (see repair instructions).
- We install the cylinder head and tighten the mounting bolts in the correct order.

Important! When carrying out such work, it is advisable to replace all gaskets: starting from the cylinder head and pan, ending with the intake and exhaust manifold.

We install the removed equipment, connect all sensors and control cables, and fill in technical fluids.

A test run and running-in of the engine is carried out using the same method as after a major overhaul.

If you have doubts about your skills and abilities, it is better to contact the service.

Source: http://yazarylem.ru/kak-zamenit-porshnevye-kolca-ne-snimaya-dvigatel/

What you need to know about VAZ piston rings

Passenger cars are equipped with different types of engines, power units can differ in volume, power, design. Depending on the manufacturer, each engine has its own specific resource - the most basic serious failures are considered to be failure of the crankshaft or piston group.

If oil consumption in an engine increases, the most common reason for this is worn or broken piston rings; replacing them is quite labor-intensive work, and also requires certain plumbing skills.

Engine piston rings

In an internal combustion engine (ICE), piston rings (PR) serve as a seal between the cylinder walls (liners) and the piston, due to which compression is created in the cylinders. If you forget to put the PC into the engine during assembly, the engine will not start, since the necessary compression of the working air-fuel mixture will not be ensured.

In passenger cars, three rings are standardly installed on each piston - two compression rings and one oil scraper ring, and oil scraper rings can be stacked, that is, consist of several elements.

Compression piston rings (CPRs) are used to create compression in the cylinders and are always made of high-strength cast iron with various additives.

The upper CPC has the greatest strength, since it operates in the most severe temperature conditions and experiences maximum loads.

Engine oil piston rings (OPRs) are needed to drain oil from the cylinder walls; if the rings do not perform their function, the engine will consume oil. MPKs can be either cast iron or steel, and cast iron PCs are almost always made in one piece, but steel oil scraper rings can only be assembled (composite). Steel MPC for one cylinder consists of:

two spring steel rings;
axial expander;
radial expander.

Thermal clearance of piston rings

PCs are spring discs with one cut - when installed on the piston, they expand, and in the sleeve they are pressed tightly against its walls.

In order to achieve maximum compression of the working mixture, the cylinder walls must be as smooth as possible (without defects), and the shape of the internal cavity must be perfectly round.

On the piston, the PCs are placed in special grooves, moreover, they are not seated tightly, and on a cold piston they move freely in the grooves.

Piston rings have thermal clearances:

between PC and groove;
at the junction.

The clearances must be certain; if they are larger or smaller than the required value, the piston group will quickly fail. One should take into account the fact that when heated, the metal expands, and if the thermal gap of the PC is too small, the piston group will begin to overheat. With large gaps, tightness is not ensured and power losses occur.

For passenger cars, as a rule, the following clearances are established:

between the grooves and the PDA - from 0.02 to 0.08 mm (for the upper ring the gap should be slightly larger);
between grooves and MPC – from 0.05 to 0.06 mm;
at the junction - from 0.25 to 0.5 mm.

As wear occurs, the gaps in the PC increase, and they should not exceed:

between the ring and the groove – 0.15 mm;
at the junction – 1.0 mm.

VAZ piston rings

The Volzhsky Automobile Plant produces engines for front-wheel drive and rear-wheel drive cars; piston rings for VAZ engines were originally supplied by the Michurinsky plant.

The Michurins produced a lot of defects in their products, and since 1986, their own production was established in Tolyatti.

Currently, there are many different manufacturers that produce PCs for VAZ engines, in particular, these are:

AVTOVAZ (Tolyatti);
STK (Samara);
GOETZE (Germany);
MAHLE (Germany);
NPR EUROPE (formerly SM, Japan).

Signs and causes of wear (breakage) of piston rings

On VAZ cars, the engine wears out during operation, and the PCs also fail. Rings can:

break into two or more parts;
wear out in thickness;
have general wear and tear.

Parts often break down due to overheating of the internal combustion engine; in this case, compression in the cylinders decreases and the engine loses power. Signs of a faulty PC are:

bluish smoke from the muffler pipe, especially often it appears after a long period of idling when the gas pedal is sharply pressed;
increased engine oil consumption;
drop in power, the motor stops pulling;
coking of spark plugs.

If there are signs of a malfunction in the piston group, the piston rings are replaced first. But replacing a PC does not always give the desired effect; often after repair the engine continues to smoke and consume oil.

The reason for this is simple - there is wear in the cylinders themselves.

In the block, the liners usually wear out unevenly - they take on an oval shape; due to wear, the piston rings do not fit tightly to the cylinder walls and do not provide a tight seal.

Piston ring sizes: table (VAZ)

VAZ-produced cars are equipped with engines of the following types:

2101/2103/ 2105/2106 (VAZ classic);
21213/21214/2130 (Niva);
2108/21083 (VAZ 2108-09-099);
2111/2112 (VAZ 2110-11-12);
21114 (VAZ 2113-14-15);
11186 (Lada Granta);
11194 (Lada Kalina).

There are also many other modifications of internal combustion engines, all VAZ engines are four-cylinder in-line, with a total number of valves of 8 or 16. VAZ engines have several standard cylinder sizes:

For each size, a repair increase of 0.4 and 0.8 mm is provided; factories produce repair pistons and rings of the first and second repair sizes. Piston rings with a diameter of 76 millimeters are available for engines:

2101;
2103;
2108;
1111(Oka).

The first repair size of the PC for these motors is 76.4 mm, the second repair size is 76.8 mm. Pistons, as well as 79 mm piston rings, are produced for internal combustion engines:

All these motors also have two repair PC sizes - 79.4 mm (first repair) and 79.8 mm (second repair). The most common PC size is 82 mm; many modern VAZ cars use a piston group of this exact size. Piston ring diameter 82 mm can be found on engines:

21083;
21213;
21214;
2130;
2123(Chevrolet Niva);
2111;
21114;
11183 (Kalina and Granta);
2112;
21124;
21126(Priora);

The VAZ internal combustion engine also has deviations from the typical dimensions, for example, on the 11194 engine with a volume of 1.4 liters, pistons and PCs with a diameter of 76.5 mm are installed; this internal combustion engine is equipped with the Ladv Kalina. There is also a non-standard power unit 1800 cm³ VAZ-21128 with a nominal cylinder diameter of 82.5 mm, but the engine is not mass-produced by AvtoVAZ.

Replacing piston rings

On VAZ cars, as well as on all other models of passenger cars, it is advisable to change only the piston rings only if:

there is no exhaust in the cylinders;
there are no signs of damage to their inner surface.

If the liners are significantly worn, they need to be bored, and if the last size was already used before, the cylinder block needs to be relined. You can replace the PC on any VAZ engine without removing the internal combustion engine; this will require removing the cylinder head and oil sump. PCs are replaced if the gap at the joints does not exceed 1 mm.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w85NG6-qjTw

For example, let's consider replacing piston rings on a VAZ-2114 car with an 8-valve internal combustion engine; such work must be carried out on a pit or a car lift:

turn off the ignition, put the gearbox in neutral, disconnect the negative terminal from the battery;
drain the antifreeze, remove the air filter housing along with the pipe (injector corrugation);
remove the valve cover, camshaft, loosen the timing belt and move it to the side;
disconnect the wires and cooling system pipes from the cylinder head, unscrew the head bolts;
unscrew the nuts of the exhaust pipe of the muffler;
We completely free the cylinder head from all fasteners that prevent it from being removed, and we remove the cylinder head;
if there is protection under the engine, remove it;
place a container under the engine sump, unscrew the plug on the crankcase, drain the oil;
remove the lower hatch of the gearbox housing (three bolts);
Using a 10 mm wrench or a socket wrench, unscrew all the oil pan bolts;
dismantle the pan, remove the oil receiver;
Unscrew the connecting rod nuts, remove the lower connecting rod caps, and carefully knock the pistons and connecting rods upward. Pistons should be knocked out through a soft metal drift or through a wooden block. First, you need to carefully knock out the connecting rod bolt without damaging the threads on it, then place the drift on the end of the connecting rod - in no case should you hit the bearings or the seat underneath them;
It is recommended to remove the connecting rods one at a time, and immediately attach the caps to them; the caps should not be confused with each other, they are placed back strictly in their places, and a lock to the lock is required;
remove the PC from the pistons, use a piece of the old ring to clean the piston grooves to bare metal. Be sure to check the cleanliness of the groove all around; there should be no coke left in it;
We install new rings in the grooves, start with the lower MPC, then install the middle compression PK, and lastly the upper one. For installation, you can use a special device, but it is still more convenient to install the rings by hand. If the MPCs are cast iron, they cannot be bent along their axis, they can only be carefully moved apart. Compression rings also need to be bent carefully, to a minimum;
we install the piston in place using a special mandrel, hammer it in with a wooden hammer handle or a brass or bronze drift;
We install one piston-rod at a time, and immediately attach a connecting rod cap to each one. The connecting rod nuts should be tightened with a torque wrench, force - from 4.5 to 5.5 kg;
then we put everything in place - the oil receiver, the engine sump, the cylinder head. We fill the radiator with antifreeze, oil into the crankcase, and start the engine to check. After replacing the PC, the internal combustion engine may initially smoke and consume oil - the engine needs to be run in for approximately 2 thousand km. It happens that despite the seemingly normal condition of the liners, the internal combustion engine continues to smoke even after replacing the rings after break-in. In this case, you will have to bore the cylinders and install a repair piston group.

Decarbonization of piston rings

If the engine starts to smoke, there is a possibility that there are rings stuck in the piston grooves. Nowadays, there are many different modern means for decarbonizing piston rings, and many drivers use them to restore engine performance. Among the most popular compositions are:

Nitrox Power;
LAVR ML-202;
Titanium;
LIQUI MOLY;
WYNN'S.

Motorists believe that if the engine starts smoking, you need to use a decarbonizer, and the engine will work as before, without oil consumption and without smoke.

Indeed, sometimes these remedies help, but only in cases where the motor has stood motionless for a long time (for example, after winter), and moisture has accumulated in it.

If the car is subject to long-term preservation (put in a garage for winter storage), you should remove the spark plugs and pour oil into the cylinders, and plug the spark plug holes with plugs. With such prevention, the spark plugs will not become damp and rust will not accumulate on the sleeves.

But if, after all, a forgetful car owner has not taken preventive measures, you can use a decarbonizer. We get rid of rust in cylinders as follows:

pull off high-voltage wires;
unscrew all spark plugs;
rotate the crankshaft so that all pistons are in the middle position;
pour 45 ml of liquid into each cylinder, install spark plugs;
leave the cylinders to “soak” for 6-7 hours;
why do we turn out the spark plugs, turn the starter a few revolutions so that all the dirt flies out of the engine;
We put the removed parts back in place and start the engine. At first it may smoke a lot, but then the smoke will go away.

Car owners should remember that decarbonization is not a panacea for all ills, and if the piston rings are worn out, then only replacing them will help.

Source: https://avtobrands.ru/chto-nuzhno-znat-o-porshnevyh-koltsah-vaz/