Checking hydraulic compensators

How to properly install hydraulic compensators in the field. How to install correctly. KakPravilno-Sdelat.ru

Hello . My story will be in several points.1. Design and operation of hydraulic compensators2. Check3. Installation (2 methods) Video will be included So:

1. Design and operation of hydraulic compensators

Hydraulic compensators were first introduced to the domestic market back in 1989. Then they seemed very effective for improving Zhiguli engines. The use of these parts had positive results, so after a while the manufacturer of these mechanisms modernized his creation so that it was possible to install a hydraulic compensator on the Niva, which became the right decision.

The principle of operation of such a device is that instead of screws regulating valve clearances, plunger pairs are screwed into the block head.

It is to these vapors from the lubrication system that oil from the lubrication system is carried through additional tubes, which forces the rocker (or lever) to constantly press against the camshaft cam.

This eliminates the need, which was constant before installing this part, to check and adjust valve clearances.

Experts say that hydraulic compensators for Niva and other car brands help maintain valve timing, as a result of which the parts of the gas distribution mechanism not only make less noise, but also have a significantly longer operating period. It is noted that after installing the hydraulic structures, they cease to experience shock loads. Also, exhaust toxicity and, very importantly, fuel consumption are reduced to some extent.

True, this mechanism still has some disadvantages that are insurmountable on the way to their conveyor installation. The main thing, perhaps, is that installing hydraulic compensators on the Niva requires incredibly fine adjustment and great care, which means that it will take much more time, and for a factory conveyor, time is an unaffordable luxury.

And at service stations such work is not profitable enough. In addition, there is another significant drawback, which is that after removing the head, you will need to disassemble the entire block, which means that you will have to change the gaskets, because it is not possible to assemble the block with the old ones.

When might a device need repair?
There are quite a lot of reasons leading to the need to carry out such a process as car repair. A hydraulic compensator malfunction is one of them. The damage can be either minor or very serious.

Most often, repair of hydraulic compensators is caused by the use of low quality motor oil. Insufficiently frequent changes of lubrication system filters can lead to the same consequences. Turbo kit for Niva Oil contamination causes various troubles. The gaps inside a mechanism such as a pair of bushings and plungers increase.

As a result, the volume of oil leakage will constantly increase or the hydraulic compensators will not have time to automatically select the size of the gaps in the gas distributor mechanism. The most obvious sign of this deviation is the knocking of the hydraulic compensators. The ball valve wears out and becomes clogged over time.

As a result, the valve does not close tightly enough and oil leakage from the plunger cavity increases. The plunger pair of the Chevrolet Niva car begins to jam. Moreover, if at first it may be almost imperceptible, then gradually this deviation can completely disable the mechanism.

As the load on the gas distributor increases, it is also necessary to replace the hydraulic compensators on the Chevrolet Niva. Repair is necessary if the hydraulic lifters are knocking and all their parts wear out too quickly.

2. Check Of course, if there is a problem with the hydraulic valves (usually a simple knock), you need to check them. Having removed the valve cover, you can check it with a simple screwdriver, putting it between the hydraulic valve pusher and the rocker, try to push the plunger, it should press in and then return to the reverse position.

If you disassemble, then put the rocker and hydraulics in the same sequence as it was on the engine.

Checking on removed hydraulics is also easy. Taking the hydraulics in your hand, press the plunger with your thumb. It should squeeze and return back, and not hang in the middle. ( CHECK IS DONE ON A WASHED, READY HYDRAULIC)
To wash the hydraulic compensators you need: a container for gasoline (preferably of course), an awl, a screwdriver, a rag, and your hands)

Removed hydraulics and ramp

Hydraulic compensators VAZ 21214

Every day cars are becoming more advanced and smarter. New systems, instruments and devices are being produced that allow us to spend less time on vehicle maintenance and repair. Such devices also include hydraulic compensators (HC).

So, hydraulic compensators are devices that independently regulate valve clearance. Specially created to replace mechanical valve timing regulators that were less efficient. A conventional valve installed on a VAZ 21214 engine does not have a main valve, so every 10 thousand km. you have to manually adjust the gaps using a special feeler gauge.

If this is not done, fuel consumption increases, the car engine begins to make noise and dynamic characteristics decrease. It becomes clear that mechanical adjustment has become obsolete. And so the “mechanics” were replaced by hydraulic compensators.

With them everything turned out to be much simpler: they themselves set the required valve clearance, thereby increasing the engine life and reducing fuel consumption.

How the hydraulic compensators of the VAZ 21214 are arranged can be seen in the picture below:

Advantages and disadvantages

+ Quiet engine operation

+ Increasing the resource of the gas distribution system

+ Reduced fuel consumption

– Need better quality oil

#8212; Expensive and complex repairs

Installation of hydraulic compensators on a VAZ 21214

To work you will need:

– Clean engine oil

– Tweezers (can be replaced with a slotted screwdriver)

Before installing the HA, they must be disassembled and thoroughly washed in gasoline. Dry and put back together. After that:

We check the hydraulic supports. To check, you need to press your thumb on the assembled hydraulic support; it should squeeze and move apart freely (without jamming)
The next step is to install the oil supply ramp and screw in the dry hydraulic mounts by hand
Using a torque wrench, tighten the hydraulic mounts (22 N per m). Again we check that when pressed it is pressed all the way, and then returns to its original position. If it sticks:

a) swap the hydraulic support with the neighboring one

b) reduce the moment to 18 n per m

c) replace with a new one

!All hydraulic clamps must be tightened to the same torque

4. Next, you need to fill each hydraulic mount with oil.

To do this: take out the plunger and put it in a clean place, use tweezers to take out the piston with the ball and also put it aside; We fill the engine oil into a syringe and fill it into the hydraulic support housing to the brim, after which we lubricate the piston and insert the piston into the housing, pressing the valve ball with an awl. Fill the plunger with oil and insert it into the body.

All steps have been completed and the hydraulic mounts have been installed, then you need to get the engine into working condition. After that you can safely start!

Replacing hydraulic valve mounts for Niva Chevrolet

If you hear a constant knocking sound from the valves when the engine is idling, the hydraulic mounts of the drive levers are faulty.

Replace defective hydraulic supports.

You will need: keys for 10, 13, 17, 24

2. Check the hydraulic supports by pressing the valve drive levers one by one, trying to push the support plungers down.

The force of recessing the plunger of a working hydraulic mount is quite large, but in a faulty one, on the contrary, the plunger is retracted easily.

3. While turning the crankshaft, align the mark on the camshaft sprocket with the mark (tide) on the camshaft bearing housing (see Checking and setting the valve timing using marks).

6. While holding the tensioner plunger, remove the sprocket from the camshaft without disconnecting it from the chain. Make sure that the chain does not disengage with the oil pump drive shaft sprocket.

8. Unscrew the nut of the stud securing the camshaft bearing housing, which simultaneously secures the fitting of the oil supply pipeline to the hydraulic supports, and.

12. Remove the bearing housing together with the camshaft from the cylinder head studs. To make it easier to reinstall the bearing housing with the camshaft, after removing them, try not to rotate the shaft in the housing.

If the oil is not removed from the cylinder head hole, the hydraulic mount will not be able to be screwed in completely and the valve actuator will not operate normally.

17. Install the valve drive lever and camshaft in the reverse order of removal. Tighten the camshaft bearing housing nuts in the sequence shown in the figure.

18. Press in the plunger of the replaced hydraulic support, as was done during testing, until a gap appears between the valve lever and the camshaft cam.

19. Install all previously removed parts in the reverse order of removal.

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Sources: http://www.drive2.ru/b/1623852/, http://vaz-21214.ru/dvigatel/gidrokompensatory-vaz-21214.html, http://autoruk.ru/niva-shevrolet/dvigatel /zamena-gidrokompensatorov-klapanov

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Hydraulic compensators knock on a cold and hot engine: diagnostics, repair

The operation of an internal combustion engine is necessarily associated with the release of heat. As you know from a physics course, when heat interacts with a metal, it expands.

Motor designers take this fact into account when designing them and provide thermal clearances.

When calculating thermal clearances, special attention is paid to the valve mechanism of the car, where an error can lead to valve burnout or knocking in the engine.

So that car workshops and drivers can control the clearance, the engine valve mechanism has the ability to adjust it. It must be performed as the machine operates, since worn parts lead to a change in the gap.

Initially, adjusting the gap was done using washers and levers, which was extremely inconvenient and also too difficult for the end driver.

Over time, designers proposed a more modern solution - the use of hydraulic compensators. These mechanisms independently select the required gap and do not require additional settings.

But problems can also arise with them, and the most well-known of them is the appearance of a knock during engine operation.

What are hydraulic compensators?

An automobile hydraulic compensator is a piston, with the bottom of which the camshaft cam interacts. The piston contains a ball valve, the task of which is to open the valve to allow oil to enter the piston cavity. The plunger is responsible for transmitting force from the camshaft cam to the valve stem.

During operation, oil enters the piston. It fills the free space, after which it begins to press on the plunger. This causes it to move upward along with the piston until the mechanism rests against the camshaft cam.

Thus, it is possible to achieve automatic selection of the optimal gap due to the hydraulic compensator mechanism.

When the camshaft cam presses on the hydraulic compensator piston, some of the oil pours out of it, after which the ball valve blocks the path of the oil, the piston moves down and a gap is created.

The hydraulic compensator, unlike washers and levers, does not require additional adjustment when engine parts wear out. In any case, the gap is adjusted due to the flow of more oil into the hydraulic compensator.

Why is the hydraulic compensator knocking?

A faulty hydraulic compensator is easy to determine. If there are problems with this element, it begins to knock during operation. The consequence of knocking of the hydraulic compensator is incorrect or untimely adjustment of the valve clearance, which can lead to problems with the engine.

The reasons why the engine hydraulic compensator knocks can be classified according to the conditions under which they occur. Depending on whether the hydraulic lifters are knocking on a cold or warm engine, the faults that can cause the problem differ.

Hydraulic lifters knock on a cold engine

Problems with the operation of hydraulic compensators can arise in two cases: if the mechanism itself malfunctions or due to problems in the oil supply system. On a cold engine, the following are the main reasons why hydraulic compensators knock:

Element contamination. If the hydraulic compensator is dirty, the plunger of the mechanism may jam in the seat. There is also an increased risk of the ball valve sticking in the open position;
Oil contamination. Dirty operating fluid, contaminated with friction products, will cause the hydraulic compensator to knock on a cold engine. Because of it, the oil supply channel may become clogged, but this problem will disappear when the engine warms up, due to the washing out of the “garbage” with the flowing heated operating fluid;
Mechanical wear of the hydraulic compensator. If damage occurs on the plunger or its seat, the oil will not be retained in the sub-plunger space, maintaining the required pressure, and accordingly, the mechanism will not be able to work properly, providing the required clearance;
High oil viscosity. When a car uses high-viscosity oil, before the engine is completely warmed up, it does not have time to reach the hydraulic compensators, which is why knocking occurs in them;
Severely dirty oil filter. If obstacles arise through the oil filter, cold oil will not be able to fully flow into the cylinder head.

Important: It is necessary to distinguish between the knocking of hydraulic compensators on a cold engine and when the engine starts.

Many drivers are mistaken in believing that if a characteristic sound is heard when starting the engine, there are problems with the hydraulic compensators.

The knocking noise may occur and subside quickly because some of the valves remain open (due to the location of the camshaft) after the engine is stopped.

Hydraulic compensators knock on a hot engine

The reasons for the knocking of hydraulic compensators on a hot engine partially repeat the malfunctions that cause this problem to occur on a cold engine. Here are some problems that are typical only for a hot engine:

The seating area of the hydraulic compensator has increased , and as the engine warms up, it becomes even more spacious due to the expansion of the warm metal;
Problems with the oil pump. Most often, the malfunction is due to the fact that the oil pump does not produce the required pressure;
Little or too much oil in the system. Because of this, the oil may become enriched with air, which critically affects the operation of the hydraulic compensator. A high air content in the oil leads to its compression during operation of the hydraulic compensator, and it begins to knock. This problem occurs only on a hot engine, since only as the engine warms up does the oil become enriched with air.

The situation when hydraulic compensators knock only on a hot engine rarely occurs. Most often, the problem occurs both on a cold and warm engine, and it is associated with bad oil, a dirty oil filter, or damage to the hydraulic compensator.

How to identify a knocking hydraulic compensator

Since there are several hydraulic compensators installed in the engine, it is necessary to determine which of them is knocking during operation before replacing or performing detailed diagnostics. In service centers, the search for a faulty mechanism is carried out using a special device for measuring noise levels. Acoustic diagnostics is an effective method for finding a problematic hydraulic compensator.

You can also diagnose the hydraulic compensator on a disassembled engine. To check them, you will need to remove the valve cover, and then make an effort to push through each element individually.

Hydraulic compensators, which can be easily recessed under external influence, have insufficient oil pressure, which indicates their malfunction.

A jammed hydraulic compensator cannot be drowned using human power.

Important: Pay attention that during the diagnostic process the hydraulic compensators are not pressed by the camshaft cam.

What causes a malfunction of hydraulic compensators?

Problems with hydraulic compensators do not have a strong impact on the wear of other engine components, but the solution to the problem should not be delayed. Troubleshooting of the hydraulic compensator should be carried out, since problems that arise may indicate a malfunction of the lubrication system.

Faulty hydraulic compensators themselves will lead to a decrease in engine power, deterioration in vehicle acceleration dynamics and an increase in gasoline consumption.

What to do if hydraulic lifters are knocking

In most cases, knocking of hydraulic compensators is associated with problems in the lubrication system, which are caused by poor oil. Therefore, if extraneous sounds appear from the hydraulic compensators on a cold or hot engine, the first step is to change the oil and oil filter.

Please note: The first start of the engine after changing the oil will again be accompanied by knocking noises from the hydraulic compensators. This is due to the fact that after draining the old oil, the hydraulic compensators become “empty”.

If changing the oil did not help fix the problem, you need to determine which hydraulic compensator is knocking during operation. Having identified a faulty element, you can remove it from the engine and try to wash it in gasoline or kerosene, and then put it in place. This will help if the cause of the knocking lies in contamination of the hydraulic compensator.

Important: After washing, hydraulic compensators must be installed in the position where they were before removal.

When flushing the hydraulic compensators does not help solve the problem of knocking in them, the elements will need to be replaced.

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Source: https://okeydrive.ru/pochemu-stuchat-gidrokompensatory-na-xolodnom-ili-goryachem-dvigatele/

Self-replacement of hydraulic compensators of VAZ 2112

Hydraulic compensators VAZ 2112

In this article we will tell you how to correctly replace hydraulic compensators on a VAZ 2112. What you need to consider when purchasing this part, and what alternative options are available when replacing this device.

Reasons for the need to replace hydraulic compensators

The hydraulic compensator (HC) is the most important component of a car engine. It eliminates the thermal gap between the valve lifter and the camshaft cam.

Eliminating this gap allows you to ensure uninterrupted operation of the engine at the level of design parameters. During operation, if the operating conditions and instructions of the manufacturer are not observed, premature wear of this part occurs.

At the same time, a characteristic knocking sound is heard in the engine. This sound tells us that the hydraulic compensator has failed and needs to be replaced.

The reasons for failure of the hydraulic compensator may be the following:

Contamination of the oil supply channels in the engine.
Wear of the working surfaces of the check valve and plunger pair.
The occurrence of shock loads as a result of non-filling or partial filling of the hydraulic compensator with oil, in other words, its “airing”.

Now let’s briefly go over each of the above points. The oil passages of the engine lubrication system must not be allowed to become contaminated. This is a clear violation of operational standards that can lead to serious consequences.

The reasons for contamination of oil channels may be:

Using motor oil that does not comply with the instructions.
Untimely replacement of engine oil.
Oil filter malfunction.

As for increasing the seating gaps in the plunger pairs, in this case, increased oil leakage will occur from the high pressure chamber.

In this case, the compensator will lose its resistance force and the effectiveness of the force of pressing the cam on the valve stem of the gas distribution mechanism will decrease. The internal space of the hydraulic compensator must be completely filled with oil.

If this condition is not met, then the GC will not eliminate the gap in the parts of the gas distribution mechanism.

As a result, dynamic loads will arise, in other words, shocks, which will lead to rapid wear of timing parts and a significant deterioration in engine performance.

If you do hear the aforementioned knock, then you should not immediately dramatize this event.
If a breakdown of this nature occurs, it is quite possible to replace the hydraulic compensators on a VAZ 2112 yourself. But first, you can try to eliminate the knocking by performing the following simple steps:

Remove the timing cover.
Rotate the crankshaft so that the valve that is knocking begins to open.
Turn the spring a little to shift the points of previous contact. The valve will also turn.
Install the timing cover.
Start the engine.

If the knocking does not disappear, then more effective measures need to be taken. Let's return to the idea that replacing hydraulic compensators on a VAZ 2112 with your own hands, in this case, will be the most optimal solution to the problem.

Diagnosis of the problem

Obviously, replacing hydraulic compensators on a VAZ 2112 with your own hands begins with diagnostics. First you need to determine which specific compensator has failed.

To do this, it will be very convenient to use a device such as a phonendoscope.

Applying it one by one in the area where each compensator is located, it is necessary to listen to the operation of each unit to identify increased noise and characteristic knocking.

Having thus determined which hydraulic compensator needs to be replaced, you can begin disassembling.

It should be noted that replacing hydraulic compensators with your own hands on a VAZ 2112 has its own certain nuances.
Knowledge of these technical subtleties will allow car enthusiasts and professionals to successfully solve problems of this kind. The following provides detailed instructions for replacing the main body:

First, remove the plastic cover.
Next, the receiver is removed. It is necessary to close the intake manifold openings with covers.
Then you need to remove the ignition module.
Then the crankcase ventilation hose is removed.
Next, remove the fastening of the injector wires. To do this you need to use a 10mm open end wrench.

Remove the fastening of the injector wires

Then remove the valve cover. To do this, you need to unscrew 15 bolts using a 8-mm socket.

Removing the valve cover

Next, remove the cylinder head cover.
We check the functionality of the hydraulic compensator. To do this, press on it with any rod, preferably made of soft metal. In this case, the camshaft cam should be turned toward the compensator with its blunt back side. If the compensator is pressed easily, with little force, then it needs to be replaced.

Checking the functionality of the hydraulic compensator

We dismantle the camshaft toothed pulleys.
Disconnect the wire from the oil pressure sensor.
Unfasten the camshaft bearing housing. To do this, you need to unscrew 20 bolts using a 8-mm socket.
Unscrew the bolt securing the rod to the rear engine mount bracket.
Next, unscrew the three nuts securing the rear support bracket. This is done using a 15mm socket.

Unscrew the bracket fastening

Remove the rear support bracket.
Now you can remove the camshaft housing.
Remove the spark plug tubes from the housing.
In order to distinguish the intake and exhaust camshafts, there is a belt on the first journal of the intake shaft.

Intake and exhaust camshafts

Next, remove the camshafts with seals.
Next, you need to remove the rear plugs of the camshaft bearing housing and cylinder head.
Using a magnet, we remove the hydraulic compensator from the socket.

We take out the hydraulic compensator

If necessary, we replace the hydraulic compensator with a new product and reassemble it in the reverse order.

As can be seen from the photo, the proposed set of works does not present any particular difficulties. After the replacement is completed, the engine may operate with increased noise for some time. In this case, the hydraulic compensators are pumped.

To do this you need to do the following:

Start the engine and let it run at 2500 rpm for 5 minutes.
Then go to idle speed and let the engine run for half a minute.
Next, turn off the engine and wait one minute.
After a minute, start the engine again. If the knocking noise has disappeared, then the hydraulic compensator has been bled; if not, then the entire procedure must be repeated again. You may need up to five or more repetitions.

Before the VAZ 2112 hydraulic compensators are replaced, the video below will help you avoid sad misunderstandings:

As this video shows, the purchase of new spare parts must be treated very, very scrupulously.

Bolts as an alternative for hydraulic compensators

Quite relevant today is the replacement of hydraulic compensators with VAZ 2112 bolts. This topic causes a lot of discussion and has many positive and negative opinions. Here are some pros and cons in relation to hydraulic compensators.

Positive sides:

The valves will always be tightly closed and, as a result, the likelihood of burnout is minimal.
There is no need to adjust the gaps.
The noise of the gas distribution mechanism is significantly reduced.
More stable operation of a warm engine at idle speed. This is the result of the valves closing tightly.

Negative sides:

In this case, we see, perhaps, only one disadvantage - the price of spare parts. This refers to the cost of the hydraulic compensators themselves and the parts associated with them. However, constant adjustment of a non-compensator gas distribution mechanism will require no less cost and even more hassle.

In conclusion, we note that replacing hydraulic compensators necessarily includes the following operations:

Change of oil.
Flushing the system.
Replacing the oil filter.
Cleaning the oil supply channels to hydraulic compensators. This can be successfully done using compressed air.

Source: http://MasteraVaza.ru/dvigatel/obsluzhivanie-dvigatelya/zamena-gidrokompensatorov-vaz-2112-422

How to determine if hydraulic compensators are faulty?

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DetailsCategory: Repair workCreated: 07/21/2013 05:29 Author: Auto Observer Views: 43646 How to determine if a hydraulic compensator is faulty? In this article we will talk about this topic.

As you know, hydraulic compensators are units installed in the engine valve drive mechanism to eliminate their gaps. As a result, the need for periodic regulation disappears. However, they can also fail.

Let's see what are the symptoms of this “disease” and how to find the faulty part?

Malfunction of hydraulic compensators usually manifests itself in the form of an extraneous knock when the power unit is operating. Extraneous sounds are localized in the valve cover area and appear immediately after starting the engine.

Moreover, when the crankshaft speed changes, the sound also changes. If the noise does not appear immediately after starting the unit or does not change when the speed changes, then the reason is not the hydraulic compensators. Among other things, the sound level should not change when the load on the unit changes.

This can be checked by disengaging the clutch or turning on many powerful electrical consumers (air conditioning, high beams, etc.). If, when the engine warms up to operating temperature, the knocking decreases or disappears, it is necessary to wash the hydraulic compensators, since the knocking is caused by oil contamination.

If, after the simple diagnostics described above, it turns out that the knocking is caused by the hydraulic compensators, it is necessary to determine which of these components have failed.

To do this you will need to perform some steps:

{typography list_number_bullet_blue}1. Immediately after stopping the engine, you must remove the cylinder head cover;||2. The piston of the first cylinder must be installed at the top dead center of the compression stroke;||3. Next, you need to press on the arms of the intake valve rocker arms. If in this case, with the valve closed (the cam profile is located with the occipital region facing the rocker arm roller), the rocker arm can be easily rotated, then the hydraulic compensator has failed.{/typography}It will not be possible to check the operation of the hydraulic compensators of the exhaust valves using the indicated method. After all, if at least one hydraulic compensator is in working order, it will not be possible to turn the fork rocker arm of the drive of both valves. However, an indirect method can be used for verification.

It is necessary to rotate the crankshaft of the power unit without jerking and very slowly until the exhaust valves begin to open. In this case, you should carefully monitor the movement of the spring plates of both valves being diagnosed. If the hydraulic compensator malfunctions, the valve spring plate moves with a delay relative to the second plate.

It is worth noting that the described technique is applicable to SOHC engines. If you need to diagnose a DOHC engine, you need to apply force to the shoulder of the pressure lever, which rests on the hydraulic compensator. If no effort is required to move the lever, then there is a malfunction of the hydraulic compensators.

In a similar way, it is necessary to check the functionality of all engine hydraulic compensators. It must be remembered that the operating order of the cylinders is 1-3-4-2. Finally, we note that before replacing non-functioning hydraulic compensators with new ones, you must try to wash them.

The fact is that these parts may not work due to contamination.

As you can see, it is quite simple to determine the fact of a malfunction of the hydraulic compensators, simply by listening to the operation of the engine. But it is more difficult to identify which parts have failed. Removing the cylinder head cover and some skill will be required.

However, this procedure can also be mastered and faulty components can be identified.

Malfunction of hydraulic liftersSocial buttons for Joomla

Source: http://auto-observer.ru/remontnie-raboti/343-kak-opredelit-neispravnost-gidrokompensatorov.html

How to check hydraulic compensators for functionality

A hydraulic compensator is a special device that regulates the thermal clearances of engine valves. The point of adjustment is to ensure that there is no gap. Without a compensator, the valve will begin to knock, and the more the engine warms up, the stronger the effect will become. And the answer to the question of how to check hydraulic compensators, to a first approximation, sounds simple: there is a knock - the compensators are faulty.

And by operating a motor with faulty compensators, the owner himself increases the need for major repairs. Timing parts will suffer first.

About the design of gas distribution mechanisms

In a simple case, the compensator is an extension of the valve heel. More precisely, the hydraulic compensator is mounted on the valve and transmits the force received from the cam. This diagram is clearly shown in the figure:

Here the compensator comes into contact with the cam

What is considered is one of the options. But there is another one, when the cam presses on the rocker arm. The rocker itself is pushed up by two different elements. On one side it will be a valve, on the other - a hydraulic compensator. The first of them moves, the second remains at the same level:

The compensator presses on the rocker from below

If the compensator is faulty, a gap will appear between the cam and the rocker arm.

Note that the lever rocker arm of the valve was not discussed above. The diagram with a lever rocker is shown below. The compensator looks different there than in cases “1” and “2”.

Previously, the timing design used a single camshaft (SOHC), and the force to the valve heels was transmitted through a lever. In order to eliminate the gap, the lever was equipped with an adjusting screw 5. It was fixed with a lock nut 6:

Timing diagram with lever rocker arms

The mechanism discussed above can be equipped with hydraulic compensators. Their device is shown in Figure “b”:

Compensator circuits, three possible options

Schemes “a” and “c” correspond to the first and second cases. There shouldn't be any questions here.

Externally, the design of compensators may vary, but the principle of operation will always be the same. The main design elements are the following parts: check valve (ball), plunger spring 5 and valve spring 6. Number 3 indicates the plunger sleeve, and part 2 is the plunger.

Note that hydraulic compensators are not used in the design of the 4A-FE and 5A-FE (Toyota) engines. They are available in motors of the following series: 2S, 1NR, ZR, TR, 5M.

Main types of faults

We answer the question of how to check hydraulic compensators for functionality. It can be noted that there are four reasons for the occurrence of malfunctions:

Increasing the size of the gaps in the areas indicated by the arrows in the photo below. Gaps are formed between the plunger and the plunger bushing. The result will be increased oil leakage. The compensator simply will not have time to “select” the thermal gap;
In rare cases, the check valve does not close tightly. Which, at a minimum, makes it impossible to create sufficient pressure generated between the sleeve and the plunger;
The bushing should move freely relative to the plunger. In the areas indicated in photo 3, a blockage may appear, and then the plunger pair jams;
Clogged engine oil passages are another reason why compensators stop working.

Points 1-3 are illustrated in the photo:

Here the gaps increase. The valve may not fit tightly to the plunger. The plunger pair jams when deposits accumulate

The first failure always occurs as a result of abrasive wear.

If you use low-quality oil, you will get the appropriate result. The second malfunction is the result of wear or clogging. The latter, by the way, is more common.

Well, jamming can occur due to gradual coking or due to the appearance of deposits.

Each of the reasons received a number from 1 to 4. Next, links are made that say which reason causes this or that effect. Read carefully.

Testing process from start to finish

Let's consider the answer to the question of how to check the serviceability of hydraulic compensators in practice. You need to open the hood, start the engine and listen:

Let's say that immediately after starting the engine increased noise appears, and after 5-6 seconds it disappears. Conclusion: the compensators are working properly, oil just leaked out of their cavity;
At idle there is an intermittent noise. As the speed increases, the noise disappears completely. Conclusion: there is a malfunction, but it is due to the second or third reason (see above);
When a warm engine is idling, a continuous noise may occur. As the rotation speed increases, the noise goes away. Conclusion: the cause of the malfunction that occurs is indicated under number 1;
Similar symptoms were mentioned above. But the engine may behave differently: noise appears at high speeds and disappears at low speeds. This means that the cause of the malfunction is oil foaming;
Let's say there is a characteristic noise from one or more valves. The effect does not depend on the rotation speed. Be aware that this malfunction can be caused by any of the reasons listed in “Chapter 2”;
Sometimes you can hear noise in idle mode, which increases with increasing frequency up to 1500-2000 rpm, but no more. This effect is not related to the operation of hydraulic compensators.

Now we just have to figure out what causes the oil to foam. In fact, both a lack and an excess of engine oil leads to the effect. Advice: you need to add consumable fluid to the MIN mark or get rid of its excess.

Increased noise levels do not always indicate a malfunction. From some of the hydraulic compensators, if the car is left on a slope, oil may leak out completely, but the deficiency will quickly be replenished with the engine running. You can get rid of the unpleasant effect in a few seconds. Why is the engine started?

From all that has been said, a simple conclusion is drawn: you should park your car on a slope only when necessary. All experienced car owners know about this.

How to distinguish a faulty compensator from a working one - video

Sample recommendations for repairs

Let the malfunction be caused by the reason indicated under number 1 or 2. Then the compensator must be replaced, and there can be no other options. If we talk about “reason 3”, it is usually recommended to clean the compensator, but this will require dismantling.

Four types of hydraulic compensator modules

It’s better to immediately replace the faulty module without disassembling it. The diameter of the module body does not exceed 10-15 mm, and repairs will be difficult.

If the noise of the compensators appears at high speeds, a conclusion is drawn about foaming of the oil (see above). The cause of the malfunction is then looked for like this:

Check the oil level on a cold engine;
If necessary, add oil or drain excess. The last step is simple to perform: instead of the dipstick, a tube from a dropper is installed, and the liquid itself is drawn out with a “pear”;
Start the engine, gradually increase the speed;
If the noise effect appears again, it is concluded that air enters the lubrication system through damaged parts.

In the latter case, the owner has a direct route to service. We wish you success.

LifanoVod.ru

How to check hydraulic compensators for functionality and their malfunctions

The hydraulic compensator is a part that is located in the cylinder head and performs the function of automatically adjusting the valve clearance. Depending on the make and model of the car, as well as the type of engine, their number may vary.

Hydraulic compensators eliminate the need for manual valve adjustment. But, like any parts, they can develop malfunctions. The usual symptom is a loud knocking sound. If the car owner heard it, then it is necessary to take timely measures to avoid more serious consequences.

It’s worth figuring out why hydraulic lifters are knocking and how to fix it.

Causes of knocking hydraulic compensators

Hydraulic compensator device

Hydraulic compensators knock due to improper functioning when the required oil pressure is not created in them. This can happen for various reasons:

Hydraulic compensators knock due to improper functioning when the required oil pressure is not created in them.

wear of the plunger pair;
jamming of the hydraulic compensator in a compressed state due to burnt oil;
contamination with scale, scale, flakes of burnt oil, and other foreign objects in the oil channel, both in the hydraulic compensator itself and in front of it;
foreign body getting under the ball valve.

Diagnostics of the hydraulic compensator

Sometimes a situation arises when hydraulic compensators knock when cold. The reasons for this problem may be as follows:

Failure to match the recommended oil grade is often the cause of hydraulic lifters knocking when cold.

oil viscosity does not match the recommended one;
pressure reducing valve malfunction;
worn out or faulty hydraulic compensator;
oil filter not replaced on time or clogged;
low engine oil level;
penetration of other liquid into the oil;
untimely oil change.

It is also a fairly common problem if hydraulic compensators knock when hot. This occurs due to the following factors:

the type of oil does not match the current season, since in the summer, winter oil becomes more liquid;
hydraulic compensator malfunction, damage, wear;
lack of required pressure in the oil system due to a clogged filter, oil pump or faulty pressure relief valve.

What to do if hydraulic lifters are knocking

Checking the oil level

Low oil level is a fairly common cause of knocking hydraulic lifters.

If a characteristic knocking noise occurs under the hood, you must first understand the reasons in order to eliminate the problem. First of all, you need to check the oil level in the engine, while turning it off for at least 2-3 minutes.

Low oil levels can greatly affect the operation of hydraulic lifters, and this is a fairly common cause of knocking. If this problem is detected, then it is necessary to add oil to the engine to the required level. If the oil level is normal, you need to remember how long ago it was changed.

If too much time has passed since the oil change, this may also affect the hydraulic lifters. In this case, it is necessary to change the oil and flush the engine.

If problems with oil are excluded, then the problem may lie in the condition of the hydraulic compensators themselves.

How to check hydraulic compensators for functionality, repair them or replace them

Checking the performance of hydraulic compensators

To check the hydraulic compensators, you need to remove the valve cover and check the elasticity of the hydraulic compensator with your hands.

The hydraulic compensators are checked by penetrating under the valve covers and turning the crankshaft by the central nut. Due to the drive of the gas distribution mechanism, the camshaft begins to rotate.

At those moments when the cams of the pushers are directed in the opposite direction from the hydraulic compensator, an alternate check for elasticity and the presence of free play begins. This can be done either by hand or with a special tool.

If the hydraulic compensator is soft or loose, then it is necessary to begin repairing it.

Features of repair of hydraulic compensators

After removing the hydraulic compensator, it is necessary to wash it in clean gasoline, diesel fuel or kerosene, or in a special washing liquid that breaks down carbon deposits and fats. It is necessary to lower the part there, rinse and wipe.

You need to find a hole and use a metal object suitable for its diameter to press it to open it. During this, the hydraulic compensator should be lowered into the liquid so that it penetrates inside.

It is necessary to repeat these steps several times.

Disassembling and cleaning hydraulic compensators

After cleaning the hydraulic compensators, they must be lubricated with oil before installation.

Through the same hole you need to get rid of the flushing fluid and excess air, while simultaneously clamping the hydraulic compensator itself. After this it should press freely.

After washing the hydraulic compensator, you can put it back in place if there are no visible defects. It must be lightly oiled before installation. Next, the part is installed in the reverse order of removal.

After this, you need to start the car and assess the situation. If the knocking continues, then repairing the hydraulic compensators will no longer help, you need to replace them.

Also, if after removing the hydraulic compensator it is discovered that there is damage on it, then the part must also be replaced with a new one. To replace hydraulic compensators, you should purchase a suitable part from the store and install it in place of the old one.

Of course, many car enthusiasts are interested in the question of how much it costs to replace hydraulic compensators. It is impossible to answer this question unequivocally. The final amount depends on the number of standard hours spent on this procedure. Also, do not forget that the cost of parts for different cars varies.

How to bleed hydraulic compensators and why it is needed

After installation, the hydraulic compensators must be “bleeded” with the engine running to remove trapped air.

After new hydraulic lifters have been installed, a knocking noise may be heard. This does not mean that the parts are faulty. You just need to “bleed” it to remove any trapped air. To do this you need to start the car.

The engine should run at 2500 rpm for approximately three minutes. You can increase the number of revolutions to 3000. At idle speed, you need to let the engine run for 30-40 seconds. After this, the engine is turned off for a minute.

Then it starts up again, and if knocking is heard again, then the cycle of actions must be repeated.

Is it possible to drive if the hydraulic lifters are knocking?

It is not recommended to continue operating the vehicle with knocking hydraulic compensators. This can lead to much more serious problems.

Malfunctions of hydraulic compensators can lead to loss of engine power, increased fuel consumption, burnout of valves, rapid wear of parts and even jamming of the unit.

Therefore, it is necessary to check the situation in time in order to clean the hydraulic compensators or replace them.

Liqui Moly additive for hydraulic compensators: is it worth using?

Oil additive Stop noise of hydraulic compensators Liqui Moli

If, after changing the oil, the hydraulic compensators begin to knock, you can use the Liqui Moly Stop Noise additive.

The modern manufacturer Liqui Moly produces a special additive for engine oil, which allows you to get rid of the noise of hydraulic lifters, which occurs due to insufficient lubrication.

The substances contained in the stop noise additive for Liqui Moly hydraulic compensators allow you to clean oil channels even in hard-to-reach places. The lubricating properties of engine oil improve, its viscosity increases, which helps get rid of noise.

This additive can be used if the hydraulic compensators start to rattle after changing the oil.

Thus, the hydraulic compensator is an important part in the car, which ensures the correct operation of the engine. The car owner must understand that when a knocking noise occurs, it is necessary to immediately begin to look for its causes.

If you can’t find out on your own how to identify a knocking hydraulic compensator, then you should contact a car service center. There, specialists will quickly determine the causes and fix the problem.

Sometimes it is possible to eliminate the knocking of hydraulic compensators without disassembling them, but in some cases they will require replacement or repair.

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