Replacing a water pump is easy! (replacement water pump is just) — logbook of the 2007 Toyota Corolla on DRIVE2
Hello subscribers and random netizens! I thought I should tell you about how to save money on replacing the water pump on a Toyota Corolla 150 and even 170 body, since the same engine is installed there.
So this whole thing was preceded, or rather preceded by a noise in the form of a hum from under the hood, as if the power steering was humming, but in the Corolla series from 2007 they abandoned the traditional hydraulic power steering in favor of an electric power steering, so this option disappeared.
I further thought that perhaps the generator bearing was humming, but the generator is located right at the top, and this option was no longer available. I continued my search after removing the attachment belt; it was easy to loosen the generator and loosen the tension from the tensioner, which is located directly on the generator.
I immediately checked the condition of the attachment belt for defects in the form of cracks and the integrity of the rivulets. Excellent condition, left by original owner.
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Be sure to put a mark to return everything to its place!
I twisted the pulleys and it immediately became clear that the cooling pump bearing had broken.
I ordered a pump from the well-known online store in Ufa MEGWAY.ru
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I know the pump is not original, but according to reviews it’s no less than the original, so we’ll take it!
After I picked up the pump from the store, I went to the garage and removed the attachment belt again.
Then I did what I wanted and I’ll explain why.
I was limited in time for the replacement (I was in a hurry at work) and still needed to replace the antifreeze and I poured the hot antifreeze directly into the trough under the car (IT IS DANGEROUS, you can get burned). I started unscrewing it from the bottom of the pump and explained why. Next we move to the top of the bolts, only 5 to 12.
unscrewing sequence
After the last bolt was torn off, antifreeze started pouring out, but it’s not scary since your hands are safe and there are no burns.
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The old and new pumps can be seen that the old one is the same aluminum, but made using a different technological method, namely using stamping, while the new one is made using casting.
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The difference is clearly visible here. There is a popular belief that the stamp in this case was a mistake by the ASIN company; later, of course, they corrected their mistake.
GMB pump made in Japan.
The new pump comes with a new gasket and 3 extra long bolts. Extended bolts are needed because the old ones are not long enough due to the thicker body of the new cast pump. I installed a new gasket in the existing groove, installed the pump and pulled the bolts crosswise.
Next, I installed the attachment belt, checked whether it sits in the grooves of the pulleys and tensioned the belt to the marks (provided that the belt is old, if the belt is new, then the tension should be less, and while driving, if there is any slipping of the belt, the belt must be tightened). Excessive tightening of the attachment belt threatens to damage the attachment bearings.
I filled in about 3.5 liters of antifreeze, in my case red. During operation, topped up to the required level.
That's all. Thank you for reading my logbook. All the best!
Price: 3,500 ₽ Mileage: 149,200 km
Source: https://www.drive2.ru/l/463999130675446272/
All about replacing the fuel filter on a Toyota Corolla
The fuel filter on modern Toyota Corolla cars is located in the fuel module inside the tank. This filter arrangement is standard for cars equipped with an engine with distributed fuel injection. On earlier models (manufactured before 2000), the filter is located in the engine compartment and attached to the engine shield.
Replacement frequency
The manufacturer does not stipulate filter replacement as routine maintenance, and this equally applies to Toyota Corolla in 120 and 150 series bodies.
Many services, based on the realities of car operation in Russia, recommend preventive replacement every 70–80 thousand kilometers. Replacement can be done earlier if signs of contamination of the filter element appear.
Since 2012, the Russian-language service literature for Toyota Corolla indicates a filter replacement interval every 80 thousand km.
Selecting a filter
The fuel intake module has a coarse mesh filter at the inlet and a fine fuel filter inside the module itself. For replacement, you can use original parts and their analogues. Before purchasing a filter, it is advisable to check the model installed on the machine.
When choosing original fine cleaning parts, it should be taken into account that the Corolla in the 120th body was equipped with two types of filters. In the first releases from 2002 to June 2004, a part with catalog number 77024–12010 was used.
On machines from June 2004 until the end of production in 2007, a filter with a modified design was used (article 77024–02040).
The 150th body was equipped with a single filter option (number 77024–12030 or a larger assembly option 77024–12050).
In addition, Corolla 120 cars were produced for the Japanese domestic market under the designation Toyota Fielder. These machines use a fine filter with the original number 23217–23010.
Analogs
The coarse fuel filter usually does not change, but if damaged, it can be replaced with a non-original Masuma MPU-020 part.
Due to the high cost of original filters, many owners begin to look for more affordable parts with a similar design. However, for cars in the 120th body, such parts simply do not exist.
For the 150th body there are a number of cheaper analogues, from manufacturers JS Asakashi (part number FS21001) or Masuma (part number MFF-T138). For those who want to save money, there is a very cheap filter option made by Shinko (SHN633).
For Fielder there are similar filters Asakashi (JN6300) or Masuma (MFF-T103).
Replacement for Corolla 120 body
Before starting work, it is necessary to empty the tank as much as possible, preferably before the reserve fuel light turns on. This is necessary to minimize the risk of gasoline spilling on the interior trim.
Tools
Before replacing the filter, you need to prepare the following materials and tools:
- screwdriver with a thin flat blade;
- Phillips screwdriver;
- pliers for dismantling the spring clamp;
- rags for wiping;
- a flat container over which the pump is disassembled.
Step-by-step instruction
Algorithm of actions:
- Lift the left rear seat cushion and bend the sound insulation mat to gain access to the fuel intake module hatch.
- Clean the installation site of the hatch and the hatch itself from dirt.
- Unfasten the hatch mounted on a special thick mastic using a screwdriver. The mastic is reusable; it should not be removed from the mating surfaces of the hatch and body.
- Wipe the fuel module cover from accumulated dirt.
- Disconnect the power connector from the fuel pump block.
- Start the engine to produce fuel under pressure in the line. If you neglect this point, gasoline will flood the car interior when you remove the tube.
- Disconnect two pipes from the module: fuel supply to the engine and return fuel supply from the adsorber. The pressure tube is clamped to the module with a clamp that slides to the side. The second tube is fixed with a conventional ring spring clamp.
- Unscrew the eight screws with a Phillips screwdriver and carefully remove the module from the tank cavity. When removing the module, it is important not to damage the side-mounted fuel level sensor and the float mounted on the long lever. It is better to carry out further work over a prepared container to prevent gasoline residues from the module from getting onto the elements of the car interior.
- Release the lever latch and remove the float.
- Separate the halves of the module housing. The plastic connector clips are located closer to the top of the module. The clips are quite fragile and it is important to carry out this operation carefully.
- Remove the fuel pump from the module and disconnect the filter from it. The fuel pump will come out with force due to the presence of rubber o-rings. It is important not to lose or damage the rings that maintain pressure when supplying fuel.
- Now you can change the fine filter. We blow out the module housing and the coarse filter with compressed air.
- Assemble and install the module in reverse order.
Replacing the filter on a Corolla 120 hatchback
On a 2006 hatchback car, the fuel filter is installed differently, so the replacement procedure has a number of nuances. Also, this scheme was used on all 120 Corollas assembled in England.
Replacement sequence:
- The module hatch is secured with four bolts using a Phillips screwdriver.
- The module itself is tightly inserted into the tank body; a special puller is used to remove it.
- The module has a completely different appearance. To disassemble it, you must first disconnect the hose at the base of the module. The hose can only be removed after pre-heating with a hairdryer.
- The filter itself with the pump is located inside the module glass and is secured with three latches.
- To access the filter, you must remove the fuel sensor.
- The filter can only be removed from the module cover when heated with a hairdryer. The fuel pipes will have to be cut. It is important to remember which of the filter tubes is incoming and which is outgoing, since there are no markings on the body.
- Use a 17 mm bolt to press the pump out of the filter.
- Install a new Toyota filter 23300–0D020 (or equivalent Masuma MFF-T116) and mount new tubes between the filter and the pump. The tubes should be easily bendable, since the pump halves are in a pre-tensioned state in the tank.
- The coarse filter is located in a glass and is simply washed with carburetor cleaner.
- We carry out further assembly and installation in the reverse order.
An important point in the work is to ensure that the new tubes fit tightly onto the fittings. It is better to check the quality of work before installing the module in the tank using a pump and soap solution. According to a number of reviews, the MFF-T116 filter does not fit tightly onto the pump. Below are a number of photos explaining the replacement procedure.
Module cover with bolts Approximate diagram of the puller Disconnecting the lower tube Clip for fixing the filter in the module bowl Prepared for removing the cover Removing the module from the tank Filter with a pump installed in it Squeezing out the pump with a bolt Installing new tubes Washed coarse filter Assembled module with tubes Leakage test with soap solution failed
Replacing the TF in the 150th body
Replacing the fuel filter on a 2008 Toyota Corolla (or any other) in the 150 body has some differences from a similar procedure on the 120 body. When replacing, it is important to ensure that the O-rings are positioned correctly as they maintain pressure in the fuel system.
Since 2010, a safety system has been used, the essence of which is that the fuel pump operates only when the engine crankshaft rotates. In the absence of residual pressure in the system, the starter has to turn the engine much longer until the pump builds up pressure in the gasoline supply pipe.
Preparation
Since the design of the modules is similar, there are no special requirements for tools and workplace equipment. You will need the same tools and materials as when replacing the filter on cars with a 120 body.
Stages of work
When replacing the filter on a 150 body, there are a number of points that you should pay attention to:
- The fuel module is fixed to the tank with a plastic threaded ring equipped with a rubber seal. The ring turns counterclockwise. To remove the ring, you can use a wooden rod, one end of which is placed against the edges of the ring, and the other end is lightly struck with a hammer. The second option could be to use the handles of a gas wrench, which are used to clamp the ring by the ribs.
- The module has additional fuel pipes for ventilation of the tank cavity. Disconnecting the tubes occurs in the same way.
- The module design has two seals. Rubber O-ring 90301–08020 is placed on the fuel pump where it is installed in the filter housing. The second ring 90301–04013 is smaller and is placed in the non-return valve fitting at the bottom of the filter.
- When reinstalling, you must carefully install the nut gasket. Before tightening the nut back, you need to install it until the marks on the nut itself and on the body (near the fuel hose to the engine) align, and only then tighten it.
The main points of the process are explained in photographs.
Module hatch on sealant Tubes on the module cover, in the red ring - fuel supply tube to the engine Module removed Clogged coarse filter New filter Washed filter
The video shows the process of replacing the fuel filter on a 2011 Toyota Corolla.
Filter on other Corollas
On a Corolla with a 100 body, the filter is located in the engine compartment. To replace it, you need to remove the rubber air supply pipe from the filter to the throttle module. The pipe is fixed with conventional screw clamps with a 10 mm nut.
The filter is connected to a fuel pipe secured with a 17 mm nut, the filter itself is secured to the body with two 10 mm bolts. The lower fuel supply hose can be unscrewed through the tie rod hole in the left arch. There is no pressure in the system, so gasoline leakage will be insignificant.
After this, you can install a new filter (the cheapest SCT ST 780 is often used). A similar filtration system is used on the Corolla model 110.
Another option is the right-hand drive model 121 Corolla Fielder, which can be with front-wheel drive or all-wheel drive. The location of the module on it is similar to the 120 model, but only on vehicles with all-wheel drive.
On such configurations, an additional fuel sensor is installed on the right. Moreover, the module itself has only one tube. On cars with front-wheel drive, the module is installed in the center of the body and two tubes go to it.
When removing the module from the tank, it is necessary to remove the additional fuel intake tube from the second section of the tank. This tube is only available on all-wheel drive Fielders. On a front-wheel drive car there is a regular pressure regulator valve.
The sensor for the second half of the tank on the right is clearly visible. One fuel supply tube. The module mount is removed. The module shows fuel supply tubes from another section of the tank. Disassembled module. Pump with new filters assembled.
Cost of work
The price of original filters for the 120th model is quite high and ranges from 1800 to 2100 rubles for the early part 77024–12010 and from 3200 (long waiting period, about two months) to 4700 for the late version 77024–02040. For a more modern 150th body, filter 77024–12030 (or 77024–12050) is estimated to cost from 4,500 to 6 thousand rubles.
At the same time, the cost of analogues Asakashi or Masuma is about 3,200 rubles. The cheapest analogue of Shinko will cost 700 rubles. Since there is a risk of damage or loss of the O-rings when replacing, two original parts should be purchased with numbers 90301-08020 and 90301-04013.
These rings are inexpensive; purchasing them will cost only 200 rubles.
FilterO-ring No. 1O-ring No. 2
An analogue of a coarse filter will cost about 300 rubles. For “English” cars, the original filter is estimated at about 2 thousand.
rubles, and a non-original one - about 1 thousand rubles. You will also need new tubes and o-rings, for which you will have to pay about 350 rubles.
The SCT ST780 filter for Corolla 100 and 110 costs between 300–350 rubles.
Parts for Fielder are much cheaper. Thus, the original filter costs 1,600 rubles, and analogs Asakashi and Masuma cost about 600 rubles.
Consequences of untimely replacement
Neglecting to change the fuel filter can result in various damage to fuel system elements that will require expensive repairs.
If the filter is slightly dirty, fuel supply deteriorates at high speeds, which is reflected in a decrease in the overall dynamics of the Toyota Corolla and increased fuel consumption.
Increased fuel consumption causes the catalytic converter to overheat and fail.
Dirt particles can get into the fuel hoses and cylinder injectors. Cleaning clogged injectors is a rather expensive procedure, and in addition, such an operation does not always help. If damaged or severely clogged, the injectors must be replaced.
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Photo gallery
Below is a brief photo explanation of the process of replacing the filter on a Corolla in the 120th body.
Module hatch under the seat cushionDisconnecting the engine power tubeGeneral view of the pump with a coarse filter and a fuel level floatA visual representation of the quality of gasoline - a sawn filter
Video
A series of videos from the author Dmitry Zlatgarag74 clearly demonstrates the process of replacing the filter on a Toyota Corolla E120.
Source: https://autodvig.com/toplivnaja-sistema/zamena-toplivnogo-filtra-tojota-korolla-27434/
How to Remove a Toyota Corolla 150 Seat
06 Jul
Why remove the rear seat on a Toyota Corolla
In most cases, car repairs take a long time. In fact, replacing a worn/broken part does not take long. How to remove the rear seats in a 2001 Toyota Corolla.
120body The master spends even more time getting to the right part.
This process is quite labor-intensive, especially when it comes to replacing a part located under the passenger compartment.
Features and removal process
Some interior elements are held on by various latches, but there are exceptions. A striking example of this is the removal of the rear seat on a Toyota Corolla E120. In this case, it is virtually impossible to do without an annotation. There is not a lot of information on the Internet that will allow you to remove the “sidukha” without the help of others.
The rear seat is presented in the form of a sofa. This applies to all cars starting from 2002. Changing the oil in an automatic transmission Toyota Corolla 150 and 120: replacing the fuel filter Toyota Corolla 120 and 150 body: With its removal, even a “newbie” will not have any problems.
- It is necessary to unclip the plastic latches by lifting the sofa a little. This is easy to do, so let’s move on to the next step;
- remove the back. In this case, there are no various types of latches. You will have to pick up a wrench and unscrew the 4 nuts. for example, from 150 Replacing the Toyota Corolla filter 1 comment on “Replacing the fuel There’s just a little bit left - unscrew the seat belts, which are also secured with nuts and remove the backrest from the passenger compartment. Please note that you must first unclip all the rivets that hold the shelf in place;
- After removing the shelf from the car interior, a feature will immediately catch your eye. Its continuation is on the shelf. The chip is disconnected as the shelf is removed. Don't forget to connect this chip after completing the repair. Cruise control Toyota Corolla E150 and E120: how to install Do you want to install model car covers on a Toyota Corolla yourself. How to disassemble It is responsible for the rear brake light, right and left turn signals. The rear seat has been removed and the planned repairs can begin.
Points worth paying attention to
Before dismantling the so-called “sofa”, you need to remove all unnecessary elements, including the spare wheel cover. It is possible to do without this, but it will take more time and effort. Both on a 2003 Corolla and any other year, it will be difficult to remove the seat from the interior .
Disassembling the interior of a Toyota Corolla E140 (how to disassemble the interior of a Corolla ?)
Website Ukraine - Website USA (USA) - Website Russia - Website.
Toyota Corolla `08 Rear seat. Removal
We take it on the sides, pull it up strongly and sharply, move it forward and remove it.
If for some reason it is not possible to remove the removed part through the rear doors, you can also use the front side door, on the passenger side. The passenger seat folds down and everything is easily removed. Motor Toyota Corolla 1.
6 1zr fe, city consumption is the same as for oil. The only thing that can complicate this process is the steering wheel.
Hi all!!! Please tell me how to change the license plate light bulbs on a Toyota Corolla Fielder 2002? no one But it is also adjustable in height, so no need to worry.
To facilitate repairs, you must first remove the head restraints. This must be done one at a time, starting from the left side and ending with the right headrest.
It will take relatively little time, but the process of further repairs will be easier.
How to remove the back seat on a Skoda Octavia A7. Place the headrests somewhere away from the car in one place, lock them in this room and forget about their existence until the repair is completed .
Don't forget about the airbag(s) (their number is often indicated in the illustration at the front of the cabin).
They also need to be disposed of while the work is being carried out. Otherwise, nothing good will come of it, because airbags are too sensitive to various mechanical influences. A small blow and you will have to visit the nearest store with spare parts for your Corolla or Axio. Below is a list of activities that must be carried out to remove the airbag:
- there are several fastenings, so you need to choose one of them, which will be detached first;
- Grab the pad where the first fastening is located.
- lift the airbag up;
- repeat the procedure with the remaining fasteners until all are snapped off;
- Now the pillow is held on by two fasteners, which snap off last and are located behind. This must be done carefully so that you do not have to repair it later.
Toyota seat back is described above. We change the engine oil, including Toyota Corolla in How to replace a windshield Please note that this is done in exactly the same sequence as dismantling the head restraints (from left to right).
Seat installation
The process of installing seats is exactly the same as the process of dismantling, only the sequence of actions is reversed. Everything is done carefully, without haste or fuss, especially when working with a pillow/pillows. At the end of the work, do not forget to remove the headrests from under the lock and install them in place.
Let's sum it up
It is worth noting that even an inexperienced car owner should not have any particular difficulties when carrying out such work. This article describes the entire process in detail and describes the nuances. Corolla 150 needs an oil change with Toyota lv 75w gl-4 oil. In reality, what difficulties do you encounter? Write about it in the comments.
Source: http://autoruservis.ru/kak-snjat-sidene-tojota-korolla-150/
Club • View topic – Water pump
Current time: 09 Jul 2018, 17:33
by Djorgdz » Jan 16, 2013 12:06 pm
I decided to create this topic because... Not long ago, a friend’s water pump jammed on a Toyota Corolla at 85 thousand km. A lot of Korolov residents are faced with replacing their pump. Our spare parts are interchangeable (or almost depending on the year of manufacture), so I want to ask if anyone has had problems with the water pump, because... I’m already approaching 80 thousand km. From experience.
He changed the steering rack at 40 thousand, I also replaced it at 40 thousand under warranty. Very very concerned.DjorgdzNewbie Messages: 70 Registered: Dec 31, 2010, 2:56 pm From: Dzerzhinsk, N. Novgorod Thanked: 10 times. Thanked: 21 times.
Equipment: sold, but I miss it
Sergey » January 16, 2013, 12:34
And what bothers you so much that you even created a new topic?
Well, it will flow. So what, the world will collapse? You'll spend 2 hours replacing it and skate the same amount more. If during the warranty, then it’s free for you, and if after, then it’s a small hit, that’s all... (about 5 rubles)
SergeyGuru Messages: 4748 Registered: April 21, 2011, 16:58 Thanked: 214 times. Thanked: 1243 times. Equipment: Prestige
by Djorgdz » Jan 16, 2013 1:13 pm
If you change it yourself, Toyota has 12 thousand. You just don’t want to stand far from the dealer on the road. If this is a disease, then I’ll replace it and won’t bother anymore. As a rule, the belt jams and tears.
DjorgdzNewbie Messages: 70 Registered: Dec 31, 2010, 2:56 pm From: Dzerzhinsk, N. Novgorod Thanked: 10 times. Thanked: 21 times. Equipment: sold, but I miss it
GET » January 16, 2013, 01:33 pm
I don't remember any problems with the pump on this forum. On Rava4, it happened that a couple of times the pump spat out a portion of coolant, and then did not flow for many months. When I sold the car, it never leaked.
Only during those two leaks did I find pink marks on the suspension arm.
But there was another type of engine. On the road with the pump, nothing will happen that will cause the car to stop.
If it starts to sweat, it will be possible to drive another thousand before repairs.
GETProfessional Messages: 800 Registered: Mar 14, 2012, 00:14 Thanked: 16 times. Thanked: 70 times. Equipment: Sol
Sergey62 » 16 Jan 2013, 14:09
So to reason - carry half a car of spare parts with you. Toyota-Verso Club Rules
Sergey62Supermoderator Messages: 3645 Registered: December 19, 2010, 21:18 Thanked: 1161 times. Thanked: 1473 times. Equipment: comfort with prestige
syoma » Jan 16, 2013 6:43 pm
There is a service bulletin for the pump and for our car. The officials changed a couple of people already from the forum. But that was in early releases.
syomaVeteran of these places Messages: 1100 Registered: Dec 20, 2010, 12:45 Thanked: 24 times. Thanked: 262 times. Equipment: 2.2 D-CAT 177hp. Executive +
Sergey » Jan 16, 2013, 10:52 pm
To get to this stage, you have to be the last idiot, not paying attention to the smudges under the car, or to the roar and squeal of a dying bearing. And only then will there be a wedge and a belt and whatever other fears you can imagine.
It must first flow to flush the grease out of the bearing. When dry, it will begin to growl, then rattle, then squeal... The price of the pump is 5300, and the work depends on prices in the regions. I won't say more precisely.
If you are so worried about the pump, open the hood periodically and check the antifreeze level. The surest indicator of the beginning of the end.
For this message the author Sergey thanked: Sergey62 (17 Jan 2013, 08:20)
SergeyGuru Messages: 4748 Registered: 21 Apr 2011, 16:58 Thanked: 214 times. Thanked: 1243 times. Equipment: Prestige
by Djorgdz » Jan 17, 2013 12:26 pm
This is one of my first cars.
That's why I'm worried. FOR INFORMATION: Korolovtsev has 33 pages on this topic called pompas. According to the friend’s experience, nothing rattled or squealed, it just knocked, but there were some leaks, but he didn’t attach any importance to them. Yes, Sergey, now I’ll look at the coolant and leaks. And Toyota somehow added it to me.
postscript. I consider myself more of a driver category – “rider”, i.e. I don’t understand much in the car and I don’t go anywhere. And I only bought new cars. As for the Verso, there haven’t been any runs yet and there’s nowhere to get serious operating experience from. That’s why I ask questions on the forum, to which I expect answers from more experienced people.
If someone thinks that the question is not worth a damn, then excuse me. Djorgdz Newbie Messages: 70 Registered: 31 Dec 2010, 14:56 From: Dzerzhinsk, N. Novgorod Thanked: 10 times. Thanked: 21 times.
Equipment: sold, but I miss it
Masseur » 17 Jan 2013, 14:33
Recently, my sister's Corolla started up with a knocking sound that went away after a couple of minutes... It turned out to be the pump! Mileage 120,000 km Parts for replacement: antifreeze pump (4 liters) belt work - I don’t know, I did it from a private owner - inexpensive, but if you have the hands and tools - you can do it yourself, nothing complicated...
All together it cost her 7.5 thousand rubles.
To live your life wisely, you need to know a lot. Remember two important rules for starters: You’d better starve than eat anything, And it’s better to be alone than with just anyone.
Massage therapist-rehabilitator
Masseur Specialist Messages: 270 Registered: Apr 30, 2012, 10:56 pm From: Moscow Thanked: 23 times. Thanked: 34 times. Trim: Elegance
Aif » January 17, 2013, 05:04 pm
On the previous Auris, at 122,000 km, something made a noise during startup, after warming up the noise disappeared. I went to the OD, it turned out to be the pump, they replaced it. Quietly, the spark plugs were changed and the injector was washed. From diagnosis to repair I rode for five days, everything was normal.
AifSpecialist Messages: 250 Registered: Dec 25, 2011, 06:14 From: s. Kunashak, Chelyabinsk region. Thanked: 13 times. Thanked: 24 times. Equipment: comfort plus
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Source: http://Toyota-Verso.ru/viewtopic.php?t=1513
Changing the fuel filter in a Toyota Corolla
It should immediately be noted that replacing the fuel filter (hereinafter referred to as TF) in Corolla cars in the 120th and 150th bodies of 2007 and 2008 is carried out according to the same principle. The replacement process is almost identical, but in the 120th and 150th bodies the fuel pumps and filters themselves have a different design. Therefore, to make it clear, we will consider replacing these elements separately.
Toyota Corolla 2006 tuning
As you know, vehicles of Japanese origin require high-quality care and the Toyota Corolla is no exception. By carrying out timely maintenance of your machine, you greatly increase its service life.
It is also important to remember that the gasoline filter is an important cleaning component of the entire fuel system, since it is this element that takes the “brunt of the blow.”
That is, it filters fuel, retaining metal dust and other wear products.
You should keep in mind that failure to replace this component in a timely manner may result in the fuel system simply failing at one point.
Regular operation of a vehicle with a clogged filter can lead to very serious consequences.
In particular, there is an additional load on the fuel pump, as a result of which it may fail. In addition, contamination of the element will contribute to improper operation of the engine.
In this case, repairs will cost a pretty penny, so you should never forget about replacing the filter.
New filter FS-21001 for Corolla in the 150th body
The following are symptoms that the TF in your Toyota Corolla has already reached the end of its service life:
- the car began to “eat” an order of magnitude more gasoline (11 liters instead of the stated 9);
- the car does not accelerate as sharply as before;
- at low speeds the power disappears (very weak “traction”);
- the vehicle stalls and may stall at traffic lights;
- in the morning the car will be very difficult to start (or not start at all);
- incorrect gear shifting. As a result of severe contamination, the transmission may not correctly transmit engine commands to change gears. Thus, they can be carried out either at the wrong time, or the checkpoint will completely stop responding to the driver’s actions.
Replacement for Corolla 120 body
What will be needed for replacement?
The average lifespan of a TF is 50 thousand km. But this mileage is designed for Japanese roads and the service life of the element is significantly reduced by at least half if you regularly drive in dusty areas.
In general, it all depends on the conditions of the region in which your vehicle is used. Therefore, on Toyota it is better to replace the fuel filter at least every 25 thousand kilometers .
So, if you understand that the time has come to replace the fuel system cleaning element, then you need to prepare in advance:
- directly to the fuel filter. The original assembled TF for Corolla will cost at least 4 thousand rubles (about 1 thousand hryvnia), while a Chinese-made filter will cost 2,500 rubles (about 700 hryvnia). Of course, it is better to install the original on your car, but domestic motorists have long practiced installing Chinese filters, which often work no worse than Japanese ones;
- two o-rings, the cost of which is 200 rubles (50-60 hryvnia);
- flat screwdriver or knife;
- Phillips screwdriver;
- a little rag;
- vacuum cleaner;
- container for draining fuel from the fuel pump.
O-rings for TF
Step-by-step instructions for replacing an element
So, let's start replacing the TF on your Toyota Corolla in the 120th body of 2007 and 2008.
- First of all, we dismantle the rear seats of your car and remove the upholstery located under the seats.
- You can see the fuel pump cap.
- Take a knife or flat screwdriver and carefully (very carefully - the plastic cover is fragile) pry it off and move it to the side. If you can’t remove it, then use a knife to scrape off the layer of sealant that holds the gas tank cap in place.
- Remove the cover.
- We take a container prepared in advance and very carefully disconnect the hoses (gasoline can flow out of them, about 200 grams).
- We see a very dusty cover of our filter; it needs to be vacuumed so that dust does not get into the tank. Corolla element cover in the 120th body
Replacement body 150
As stated above, the replacement process is almost identical, but there are some nuances that may confuse our readers, so we consider replacing elements separately.
Tools
As for tools, to replace the TF in the 150th body you will need the same tools as to replace the element in the 120th body.
Replacing the TF on a Corolla in the 150th body
Let's consider the process of replacing the fuel system cleaning component on a 2007 and 2008 Toyota Corolla in the 150th body:
- First you need to remove the rear seats of the vehicle and dismantle the upholstery located under the seats.
- Having done this, you will see the fuel pump cap. Corolla tank cap in the 150th body
- Now take a knife or flat-head screwdriver - you need to carefully pry up the tank lid and move it to the side.
- Then remove the cover.
- Next, you need to take the prepared container and carefully disconnect the hoses from which fuel may leak.
- Then you need to vacuum the dusty gas cap.
- Before directly dismantling the TF, when the hoses are disconnected, you need to start the car and wait two to three minutes until the car stalls itself. Once the engine has stalled, you can start the car several more times. This process removes all fuel from the system.
- Next, you need to disconnect the battery terminals.
- Now we take two wooden caps (if they are missing, two screwdrivers) and preferably a partner who will help you unscrew the fuel tank ring.
- When the ring is unscrewed, remove the filter from the tank.
- The figure shows what needs to be dismantled: remove the mesh, float and connector at the bottom of the filter element. Corolla filter in the 150th body assembly
- We take a new fuel cleaning element, put a mesh and a float on it.
- We install the element in the gas tank and assemble everything in the reverse order.
- Once everything is assembled, don't forget to put the battery terminals back on.
Note! When you start the car, it may not start for some time. This is due to the fact that gasoline takes time to travel throughout the system. There is no need to press the gas pedal to the floor, this will not help. On average, the car starts after 3-4 attempts.
Video “Replacing the TF on a Toyota Corolla E150”
This video clearly shows step-by-step instructions for replacing a fuel system component in a Toyota Corolla.
How do you replace the filter element in your Corolla? Tell our users about it - leave your comment!
Source: http://AvtoZam.com/toyota/corolla/filtr-topliva/
Replacing the timing belt in Toyota Corolla
The timing belt is one of the most important engine components. The service life of the power unit depends on the timeliness of its replacement. If you have special skills and tools, and, most importantly, if you strictly follow the sequence, replacing the Toyota Corolla timing belt is a simple operation. You can do it yourself in a garage.
The 4A FE engine, on the basis of which the 3ZZ-FE was built with the Toyota VVT-i brand system, is equipped with a belt drive. The frequency of replacing the Toyota Corolla timing belt is 100 thousand kilometers.
There are some factors to consider. According to them, an adjustment is made to reduce the service life of the belt. The production of cars on which the 4A FE was installed ceased in 1998. Therefore, most engines have a fairly high mileage. And timing belts manufactured under license are always used less than the original ones.
Replacing the Toyota Corolla timing belt, if necessary, can be combined with such related work as:
- replacing the front crankshaft oil seal;
- replacing spark plug well seals;
- replacing the coolant pump.
In later generations, replacing the timing chain on a Toyota Corolla is always done at higher mileage. The need for this procedure is determined by characteristic features. For example, by the noise of the chain that occurs while the motor is running. Sometimes they resort to defect detection of the main parts - chains, stars.
Work order
Before replacing the timing belt on a Toyota Corolla, purchase the necessary spare parts. Give preference to original parts recommended by the manufacturer. Replacement will require a new timing belt and tensioner pulley.
Do not forget that it is not recommended to bend the part during installation, especially in the opposite direction.
- Remove the windshield washer reservoir.
- Unscrew the bolts securing the metal tubes.
- Unscrew the three bolts securing the generator.
First, unscrew the two bolts located on the side of the generator. Lastly, unscrew the third bolt located below the generator. When installing, tighten the bolts in the reverse order. - To remove the power steering wire belt, loosen the tension bolt.
- Remove the spark plug tips.
- Remove the 4 bolts holding the valve cover.
- Remove the 4 bolts holding the water pump pulley.
- Unscrew the 4 bolts holding the protective plastic timing belt cover.
- Remove the alternator belt and the air conditioning compressor belt.
For easier access, remove the right wheel and also remove the plastic protection covering the lower part of the car. - Have an assistant engage 5th gear and apply the brake. At the same time, tear off the crankshaft pulley mounting bolt. Without removing the crankshaft pulley, set the timing marks so that the crankshaft mark coincides with the 0° mark on the plastic pointer.
On the pulley of one of the two camshafts on which the timing belt is located, install the gear so that the hole in the pulley coincides with the groove on the block. For control, you can use an object of the appropriate diameter.
- Remove the middle and lower plastic cover covering the timing belt.
- Unscrew the bolt holding the timing belt tensioner and remove the belt.
- Replace the tension roller, be sure to cock it.
- Unscrew the side cushion holding the engine.
Jack up the engine so that there is a gap between the mount and the body. Through this hole, remove the old belt and insert the new one. Please note that depending on the belt manufacturer, when installing, the brand name of the part should be read in the correct direction if you approach the car from the right side. Some manufacturers put arrows on the timing belt, which should go in the direction of rotation of the pulley. - When the belt is in place, turn the crankshaft two turns and make sure that all marks match. Only in this case can you continue assembly.
- Reassemble in reverse order. In this case, observe the tightening torques for nuts and bolts recommended by the manufacturer.
In order to know how to change the timing chain on a Toyota Corolla, use another manual. The sequence of work for replacing a chain drive differs from those that need to be carried out for motors equipped with a belt drive. However, if you managed to replace the timing belt yourself, then you can also change the chain without any problems.
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Source: http://jrepair.ru/remont-toyota/zamena-remnya-grm-v-toyota-corolla
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