Repair and replacement of the clutch slave cylinder

Clutch slave cylinder VAZ 2107: replacement, adjustment and repair, instructions with photos and videos

Clutch problems can cause serious trouble for owners of cars with a manual transmission. The VAZ 2107 is no exception. However, most faults can be quite easily fixed with your own hands.

The design and principle of operation of the VAZ 2107 clutch

The VAZ 2107 is equipped with a single-plate dry clutch with a hydraulic drive. The drive design includes:

tank with a stopper and built-in liquid stabilizer;
suspended pedal with pusher;
master and slave cylinders;
metal pipeline;
hose connecting the pipeline and the working cylinder.

When the pedal is pressed, the force is transmitted through the pusher to the piston of the clutch master cylinder (MCC). The main fluid circulation pump is filled with brake fluid coming from the hydraulic drive reservoir.

The piston pushes out the working fluid, and it flows under pressure through a pipeline and a rubber hose into the clutch slave cylinder (CSC). In the RCS, the pressure increases and the fluid pushes the rod out of the device, which, in turn, actuates the clutch fork.

The fork, in turn, moves the release bearing, disengaging the pressure and driven discs.

The VAZ 2107 clutch has a single-plate dry design with a hydraulic drive

Clutch slave cylinder VAZ 2107

The RCS is the final link of the clutch hydraulic drive. Its more frequent failure compared to other components of the mechanism is associated with increased loads resulting from high fluid pressure.

The slave cylinder is subjected to constant loads and fails more often than other elements of the clutch mechanism.

RCS device

The working cylinder of the VAZ 2107 consists of:

housings;
piston;
rod (pusher);
springs;
protective cap (case);
two cuffs (o-rings);
valve for bleeding air;
retaining ring with washer. The clutch slave cylinder has a fairly simple design

Location of the RCS

Unlike the main circulation center, which is located in the interior of the VAZ 2107, the working cylinder is located on the clutch housing body and is screwed to the bottom of the “bell” with two bolts. You can only get to it from below, after first removing the engine protection (if any). Therefore, all work is carried out on an inspection pit or overpass.

The slave cylinder is attached to the bottom of the clutch housing

Symptoms of a malfunction of the control center

Failure of the RCS is accompanied by the following symptoms:

unusually soft clutch pedal travel;
periodic or constant failure of the clutch pedal;
a sharp decrease in the level of working fluid in the tank;
the appearance of traces of liquid under the car in the area of the gearbox;
Difficulties when changing gears, accompanied by a crunching (grinding) noise in the gearbox.

These symptoms may also be the result of other malfunctions (the entire clutch mechanism, main clutch, gearbox, etc.). Therefore, before starting work on replacing or repairing the RCS, you need to make sure that it is he who is “to blame”. To do this, it should be carefully examined. If traces of working fluid are found on the cylinder body, on its rod or hose, you can begin dismantling the control center.

One of the signs of a malfunction of the working cylinder is traces of leaks of working fluid on its body

Main malfunctions of the RCS

The main part of the RCS is made of durable steel, so it is completely replaced only in case of serious mechanical damage. In other cases, you can limit yourself to repairs. Most often, the cylinder fails due to wear of the piston o-rings, protective boot, malfunction of the air release valve and damage to the hose connecting the cylinder and the pipeline.

Repair kit for RCS

Any failed part can be purchased separately. However, when replacing cuffs, it is more advisable to buy a repair kit, which includes three rubber seals and a protective cover. For classic VAZ models, repair kits are produced under the following catalog numbers:

2101–1602516;
2101–1605033;
2101–1602516. The repair kit for the VAZ 2107 clutch slave cylinder includes a protective cover and three cuffs

The cost of such a set is about 50 rubles.

Clutch slave cylinder repair

To repair the control center, it must be removed from the vehicle. For this you will need:

round nose pliers or pliers;
wrenches 13 and 17;
container for draining liquid;
clean dry rag.

Dismantling of the RCS

Dismantling of the RCS is carried out in the following order:

We install the car on an inspection hole or overpass.
From the inspection hole, use a 17 wrench to unscrew the tip of the connection between the hydraulic drive hose and the working cylinder. The tip of the hydraulic drive hose is unscrewed with a 17 wrench
We place a container at the end of the hose and collect the liquid flowing from it.
Using pliers, disconnect the tension spring from the clutch fork and remove it. The tension spring is removed using pliers
Using pliers we pull out the cotter pin from the cylinder rod.The cotter pin is pulled out from the cylinder rod using pliers
Using a 13mm wrench, unscrew the two bolts securing the control center to the crankcase. The clutch slave cylinder is screwed to the crankcase with two bolts
Disconnect the spring bracket and remove it. The tension spring bracket is attached to the same bolts as the cylinder
We disengage the working cylinder rod from the fork. The working cylinder rod is connected to the fork
We remove the cylinder and use a rag to remove traces of working fluid and dirt from it.

Disassembly and replacement of faulty parts of the control center

To disassemble and repair the cylinder you will need:

wrench 8;
slotted screwdriver;
clean dry cloth;
some brake fluid.

The working cylinder is disassembled in the following sequence:

We clamp the cylinder in a vice.
Using an 8-mm open-end wrench, unscrew the air bleed valve and inspect it for damage. If a malfunction is suspected, we purchase a new valve and prepare it for installation. The working cylinder fitting is unscrewed with an 8mm wrench
Use a thin slotted screwdriver to remove the protective cover. The cover is detached using a thin screwdriver
Remove the pusher from the cylinder.
Using a screwdriver, carefully push the piston out of the cylinder. To remove the piston, you need to push it out of the cylinder with a screwdriver
Use a screwdriver to disconnect the locking ring. To remove the locking ring, you need to pry it off with a screwdriver
We remove the spring and washer from the piston. When disassembling the control center, the spring is removed from the piston
Remove the rear cuff. To detach the washer and the rear cuff, just move them
Use a screwdriver to remove the front cuff. To remove the front cuff you need to pry it off with a screwdriver
We carefully examine the inner surface of the cylinder (mirror) and the surface of the piston. If they have burrs or dents, the cylinder should be replaced completely.

Before replacing the piston cuffs and protective cover, the metal parts of the cylinder must be cleaned of dirt, dust, and traces of moisture using brake fluid and a clean rag.

New seals and a cover are installed during the assembly of the RCS. First, the front cuff is put on the piston, then the rear one. In this case, the back cuff is fixed with a washer. The protective cover is installed together with the pusher.

Assembling the device and installing it is done in the reverse order.

Video: repair of the VAZ 2107 clutch slave cylinder

Bleeding the hydraulic clutch

After any work related to depressurization of the clutch mechanism, as well as when replacing the fluid, the hydraulic drive must be pumped. For this you will need:

brake fluid (0.3 l);
rubber hose;
key to 8;
a vessel for collecting liquid (a 0.5 liter plastic bottle is suitable).

In addition, you will need an assistant for pumping. The procedure is as follows:

After installing the control center and connecting the hose to it, fill the hydraulic drive reservoir with liquid to a level corresponding to the lower edge of the neck.
We put one end of a pre-prepared hose onto the valve fitting to bleed air, and lower the other end into a container to collect liquid. One end of the hose is put on the fitting, the other is lowered into a container to collect liquid.
We ask an assistant to press the clutch pedal 4–5 times and hold it pressed.
Using a size 8 wrench, unscrew the air bleed valve fitting approximately three-quarters of a turn. We wait for the air to come out of the cylinder along with the liquid.
We screw the fitting into place and ask the assistant to repeat pressing the pedal. Then we bleed the air again. Bleeding cycles are repeated until all the air has left the system and bubble-free liquid begins to flow out of the fitting. It is necessary to bleed the air until bubble-free liquid comes out of the hose
Checking the clutch operation. The pedal should be pressed firmly and without failure.
Add brake fluid to the reservoir to the required level.

Setting the clutch drive

After bleeding, it is recommended to adjust the clutch drive. For this you will need:

a caliper or (as a last resort) a ruler;
wrenches 8, 10, 13, 17;
round nose pliers or pliers.

The procedure for setting the clutch on carburetor and injection VAZ 2107 models is different. In the first case, the clutch pedal free play setting is adjusted, in the second - the amplitude of movement of the working cylinder rod.

For carburetor VAZ 2107, the drive is configured as follows:

We measure the amplitude of free play (play) of the clutch pedal using a caliper. It should be 0.5–2.0 mm.
If the amplitude goes beyond the specified limits, use a 10mm wrench to unscrew the locknut on the travel limiter stud and, turning the limiter in one direction or another, set the required backlash. The working stroke of the clutch pedal is adjusted using the limiter
Use a 10mm wrench to tighten the locknut.
We check the full pedal travel (from the top position to the bottom) - it should be 25–35 mm.

For injection VAZ 2107, the drive adjustment is carried out in the following order:

We install the car on an inspection hole or overpass.
Using pliers from below, remove the tension spring from the clutch fork.
We determine the backlash of the working cylinder pusher by pressing the clutch fork all the way back. It should be 4–5 mm.
If the play does not fall within the specified interval, use a 17 wrench to hold the rod adjustment nut, and use a 13 wrench to unscrew the fixing nut. To unscrew the adjusting and fixing nuts, you need 13 and 17 wrenches
Using a 8 wrench, we fix the rod from turning, grabbing it by the collar, and with a 17 wrench, we rotate the rod adjustment nut until its play becomes 4–5 mm. The rod play is adjusted using the adjusting nut
Having fixed the adjusting nut in the desired position with a 17 wrench, tighten the lock nut with a 13 wrench.
Check the full pedal travel. It should be 25–35 mm.

Slave cylinder hose

The hose connecting the pipeline and the working cylinder must be replaced if:

visible damage accompanied by leakage of brake fluid;
detection of cracks, swellings (bumps) on its surfaces;
wear of threaded connections of tips.

Hoses produced by domestic enterprises have catalog numbers 2101–1602590 and cost about 100 rubles.

The hose consists of a rubber working part and two tips

To replace the hose you must:

Place the machine on an overpass or inspection hole.
Raise the hood and locate the connection point between the hydraulic drive line and the working cylinder hose in the engine compartment.
Use a 17 wrench to secure the hose tip, and use a 13 wrench to unscrew the fitting on the pipeline. Place a container at the end of the pipeline and collect the liquid flowing from it.
Using a 17mm wrench, unscrew the tip of the other end of the hose from the RCS body. There is a rubber O-ring installed in the cylinder socket, which also needs to be replaced.
Install the new hose in reverse order.

Thus, diagnosing, repairing and replacing the VAZ 2107 clutch slave cylinder is not very difficult even for an inexperienced car enthusiast. A minimum set of tools and recommendations from professionals will allow you to complete all the work with minimal investment of time and money.

Source: https://bumper.guru/klassicheskie-modeli-vaz/stseplenie/rabochiy-tsilindr-stsepleniya-vaz-2107.html

Replacing the clutch slave cylinder VAZ 2107

Hello dear readers of the site Autoepoch.ru. Today I want to talk about replacing the clutch slave cylinder of a VAZ 2107 with my own hands, however, this information will be relevant for all classic Lada models.

What is a clutch slave cylinder and how does it work?

This is what the RCS looks like:

In general, in classic Lada models, in particular on the VAZ 2107, there are two clutch cylinders, a worker and a main one. They perform almost the same function after pressing the clutch pedal (see.

clutch operation diagram, yellow arrow) the piston of the master slave cylinder moves, pushing out the brake fluid, which in turn moves the piston of the slave cylinder (green arrow), which, by pressing the fork, engages the clutch.

Where is the clutch slave cylinder located?

The RCS is attached to the clutch housing of the box using two bolts, see photo.

When is it necessary to replace the clutch slave cylinder?

Like any other car part, the brake control system wears out over time: the boot breaks (see photo), and brake fluid begins to leak.

A sign of a broken working cylinder may be light movement of the clutch pedal due to a leaky system. By the way, this symptom may also indicate a failure of the master brake cylinder.

How to replace the clutch slave cylinder of a VAZ 2107: step-by-step instructions

Tools:

set of wrenches,
pliers,
brake fluid.

Sequencing:

Using a 17mm open-end wrench, loosen the hose fitting.

Remove the release spring from the fork.

Using pliers, remove the cotter pin from the clutch slave cylinder pusher hole.

Using a 13mm socket wrench, unscrew the two bolts securing the control center to the crankcase and disconnect the bracket with the tension spring fastening.

After removing the pusher from the hole, remove the clutch slave cylinder.

Use a 17-mm open-end wrench to secure the tip of the brake hose, after which the control center can be unscrewed by hand. Important: before this procedure, prepare a container to drain the brake fluid from the hose and cylinder.

Tip: There is an O-ring at the connection between the clutch slave cylinder and the hose tip, be careful not to lose it.

Install the new DCS in the reverse order. After installing the cylinder, fill in the brake fluid and bleed the clutch.

Video

I recommend reading:

Source: http://autoepoch.ru/remont-i-obsluzhivanie-avto/zamena-rabochego-cilindra-scepleniya-vaz-2107.html

How to replace the clutch cylinder on a Chevrolet Niva

The clutch in cars is one of the main components that ensure the movement of the vehicle. Its failure threatens to completely immobilize the device. In cars with a manual transmission, the driver directly controls this unit using the leftmost pedal located under the steering column.

But in order to ensure a smoother and quieter ride, it is necessary to understand which components are activated when you press the pedal, as well as how to prevent possible malfunctions and make repairs if necessary.

The clutch mechanism includes two types of cylinders: slave and master. This material is useful if it is necessary to replace the main clutch slave cylinder.

The main component of the work is the hydraulic drive, which ensures the movement of the cylinder.

The operation is based on the reception of force that comes from the master cylinder, the movement of which moves the clutch release fork.

The design of the slave cylinder is almost the same in all car models with a manual gearbox, so the operating principle is the same. Typically, the following set of parts is used in manufacturing:

retaining ring
cap
union
plate
boot and o-rings

How the device works

First of all, you need to understand what the slave cylinder is intended for. When you press the clutch pedal, a pusher moves, which drives the piston, moving it forward. This causes the pressure in the clutch master cylinder to increase in the housing.

Liquid under pressure is forced through the discharge channel into the working cylinder, which contains a built-in piston and fork that drive the working cylinder. At this moment, the connection between the engine and the gearbox is broken, which allows the gear to be changed.

After the driver releases the clutch pedal, a push spring returns the system to its original position and the clutch discs are connected.

Despite the simplicity of operation of the Chevrolet Niva working cylinder, like all mechanisms, it is inherent in the occurrence of breakdowns and malfunctions that can be caused by wear of parts due to constant friction.

Clutch slave cylinder diagnostics

The cylinder is located on the clutch housing. To visually find it and diagnose the condition of the part, you need to open the hood and examine the space on the driver’s side.

First you need to determine that the problem lies in this part, and begin to repair or replace it. To do this, there are a number of measures that allow you to identify the problem yourself, without the need to visit a car service center. You should pay attention to some signs that occur while driving:

reducing clutch pedal travel
crunching sound when changing gears
there is visible damage to the cylinder body
oil leaks on connecting pipes
decrease in brake fluid level
no response to pressing the clutch pedal

In this case, the part must be repaired or replaced.

Replacement is necessary when irreparable defects occur, such as damage to the cylinder body. In other cases, repairs can be made. In this case, you can remove the working cylinder of the Niva Chevole and install a repair kit.

To work, you need to prepare keys for 13 and 17. Work begins with loosening the hose; do not unscrew it completely.

To release the cylinder, unscrew the two bolts, after which you can remove the bracket.
To release the pusher from the fork, you need to remove the protective cap from it.
Holding the hose with one hand, rotate the cylinder until it is disconnected from the hose.

After this, you need to drain the liquid from the system into a container.

At this stage, the cylinder has been removed and a new part can be installed by performing the steps in reverse order. After installation, the system is bled to remove any remaining air from it.

The cost of a new clutch slave cylinder is quite low, so a complete replacement is recommended. But if the condition does not cause any complaints, then you can purchase a repair kit to carry out independent repairs.

Source: https://expertniva.ru/hodovaya/360.html

Replacing the clutch master and slave cylinders

The clutch system performs the function of briefly disconnecting the internal combustion engine from the gearbox. As a result, the transmission of torque from the power unit to the drive shaft of the transmission stops.

This system includes many components. One of them is the clutch master cylinder, which we will talk about today.

What he really is?

This mechanism is a small casting made of cast iron steel with a flange for attachment to the body. On its top there is a plastic tank with a lid. It is attached to the body using a threaded fitting. Thanks to this mechanism, a special fluid enters the clutch master cylinder.

Inside the cast iron part there is a piston with a cuff and an o-ring. There is also a spring resting on the check valve. It compresses the piston to the extreme right. When these parts heat up, expansion occurs, and accordingly, the liquid in the system must go somewhere.

For these cases, there is a special compensation hole through which it enters the tank from the cylinder cavity.

The hydraulic clutch drive system includes:

clutch pedal;
The clutch master cylinder, located in the chain immediately behind the clutch pedal. Its task is to transmit the force from the clutch pedal using working fluid to the clutch slave cylinder;
further, the clutch slave cylinder, the main task of which is to move the fork and pressure bearing;
clutch release fork;
pressure bearing;
pipe for supplying clutch fluid.

How does a clutch master cylinder work?

This mechanism is designed in such a way that each time you press the clutch pedal, it moves forward using a pusher. And when the piston closes the hole, the pressure in the cylinder increases. Thus, the fluid flows to the working cylinder and disengages the clutch.

When the pedal is released, a similar action occurs, only in reverse order. The liquid flows back - the valves open, the spring compresses and it moves from the working cylinder to the main one.

If the pressure level drops to a point below the spring compression force, the first part closes and more pressure is generated in the system. This is necessary to sample the gaps of the mechanical part of the drive.

If the pedal is released abruptly, then the liquid will not completely fill the space behind the piston. Then a vacuum occurs in the clutch master cylinder. Because of this, the liquid will flow from the plastic tank through the bypass hole directly into the piston.

Then it passes through the piston head and fills all the space that appeared in the part after the vacuum. At the same time, the liquid removes the edges of the cuff and pushes the spring plastic aside.

And again, if it becomes more than normal, all of its excess passes through a special compensation hole back into the tank.

How is the clutch slave cylinder constructed?

The clutch is a mechanism used to connect the power unit with the gearbox and then disconnect it. If this device malfunctions, normal vehicle movement will no longer be possible. Basically, the serviceability and operating condition of this mechanism depends on the drive.

The latter ensures the normal functioning of the clutch system, namely, it remotely acts on the basket (pressure plate) when the corresponding pedal is pressed inside the car. This device also includes a clutch slave cylinder, which is also an important part in the operation of the drive.

And today we will talk about it in detail

At the moment, there are several types of drives:

Mechanical.
Hydraulic.

The first drive is most often used on passenger cars. Its distinctive feature is its simplicity of design and low cost of maintenance.

The mechanical drive has only 4 devices at its disposal:

clutch pedal;
freewheel adjustment mechanism;
clutch cable;
lever transmission.

As for the hydraulic mechanism, its design contains the following elements:

clutch pedal and connecting pipes;
working fluid reservoir;
including the clutch master and slave cylinders.

In general, this tool is an integral part of the hydraulic drive, the task of which is to absorb the forces coming from the main cylinder. Also, the clutch slave cylinder performs the function of moving the system release fork with a pressure bearing. This mechanism is located on the clutch housing

WHEN REPLACEMENT OR REPAIR OF THE CLUTCH MAIN CYLINDER IS REQUIRED

A lot has been said and written about diagnosing clutch performance.

Therefore, let us remind ourselves how the driver can independently determine a clutch malfunction and understand for himself that it is time to repair the clutch master or slave cylinders.

Yes, by the way, in order not to repeat myself. In cases where repairing the clutch master or slave cylinder, as well as bleeding the clutch, does not lead to the desired result, then the best option in this case is to replace the clutch master or slave cylinder.

How to diagnose clutch performance yourself:

systematically check the level of working fluid in the clutch reservoir. A noticeable decrease in the level of working fluid indicates that the brake fluid leak is due to failure of the cuffs or piston failure;
by visual inspection, detect the presence of leaks of working fluid on the bodies of the main and working cylinders, as well as at the junctions of pipelines;
The presence of air in the clutch system will tell you when the clutch pedal goes to the floor. In this case, you will need to either bleed the clutch or diagnose and repair the master and slave cylinders;
happens, so-called “under-depressing” the clutch is when, when you press the clutch pedal and change gear, you hear the characteristic “crunch” of gears or feel the vibration of the gear shift knob.
If there are signs of a malfunction in the clutch, it is advisable not to pull and carry out a more thorough diagnosis. Otherwise, it may turn out that the repair of the clutch master cylinder, postponed until tomorrow, may today bring troubles associated with replacing the entire mechanism.

If you need to replace the clutch master and slave cylinders, contact V-STUDIO car service.

Qualified specialists of our car service center have extensive experience and can guarantee you a responsible attitude towards your car and a professional approach to the task.

It should also be noted that modern equipment and high-quality spare parts are used for the work. By contacting the V-STUDIO car service, our specialists will repair your car of any degree of complexity, efficiently, in the shortest possible time.

Source: http://v-sto.ru/slesarnyy-remont/remont-transmissii/zamena-glavnogo-i-rabochego-tsilindra-stsepleniya.html

Replacing (repairing) the clutch slave cylinder yourself

The clutch slave cylinder is an integral part of the hydraulic drive of the vehicle's clutch system. Its task is to receive the force coming from the clutch master cylinder and move the clutch release fork with the pressure bearing.

When will we start repairing the clutch slave cylinder?

The working clutch cylinder is traditionally located on the clutch housing. Its design is not fundamentally different on different brands and models of cars, so the principle of replacing or repairing the clutch slave cylinder is the same on both Pajero and Zhiguli.

You need to know the technology for disassembling it in order to repair the clutch slave cylinder with your own hands. This procedure is not as complicated as it might seem at first glance.

The cylinder body contains: a pusher, a piston, sealing rings, an air bleeder, and a spring.

Replacing the clutch slave cylinder assembly is a last resort, since existing repair kits are fully equipped with the most wearable parts. Although, lately the quality of rubber parts has suffered greatly.

The first sign of clutch malfunction is soft movement or failure of the clutch pedal. But this is not yet a reason to start repairing the hydraulic drive. In order to calm your conscience, you need to bleed the clutch hydraulic drive.

But if during bleeding you find air in the brake fluid, then you should think about where it came from. As a rule, the presence of air in the hydraulic drive indicates a violation of the tightness of the rubber seals.

Bleeding the hydraulic clutch

Connect a hose to the bleeder screw on the working cylinder and lower its other end into a container with brake fluid. Then fill the clutch master cylinder reservoir with brake fluid and press the pedal until air bubbles stop appearing.

If they do not stop, then we begin repairing the hydraulic drive. First check for signs of external fluid leakage on both cylinders, the pipeline and at the joints.

Clutch slave cylinder repair

We begin the repair by removing the cylinder and disassembling it. To do this you will need a bench tool and a vice. We place the working cylinder in a vice after removal, for ease of disassembly.

The protective cap is removed along with the pusher, then we remove the piston and remove the retaining ring on the piston.
Remove the sealing rings and spring from the piston.
Next, you should clean all the holes in the cylinder and the air outlet fitting.
Make sure there is no mechanical damage to the outer surface of the piston and cylinder bore.
If there is mechanical damage to the spring, it should be replaced.
The O-rings and protective cap must be replaced with new ones from the repair kit.
Wash all parts with clean brake fluid. and only by her. Oil, gasoline, and diesel fuel are excluded from rinsing, otherwise the rubber parts will swell. By the way, use high-quality brake fluid for the hydraulic drive.

Assembly and installation of the working brake cylinder is carried out in the reverse order. According to the instructions for assembling the working cylinder, there should be no unnecessary parts left. Only those that you did not use from the clutch slave cylinder repair kit.

After repairing the clutch slave or master cylinder, do not forget to bleed the hydraulic drive.

http://carnovato.ru

Source: http://legkoe-delo.ru/remont-avtomobilya/automobile/95278-zamena-remont-rabochego-tsilindra-stsepleniya-svoimi-silami

Replacing the clutch slave cylinder VAZ-2107

On cars, in addition to the master and slave brake cylinders, there are also clutch cylinders.

Many do not even know the purpose of these devices, as a result of which the failure of one of the mechanisms forces the car owner to visit the nearest service station and pay decent money for minor repairs.

In this material we will pay attention to such a device as the VAZ-2107 clutch slave cylinder, what it is, where it is located and why it breaks.

Device location

To find the clutch slave cylinder on a VAZ classic, you need to look for it directly in the area where the gearbox is located. The device is attached with two bolts to the gearbox housing.

The mechanism can only be seen from below or in the very depths of the engine compartment on the driver’s side.

Repair work related to dismantling and replacing the clutch slave cylinder can be carried out “from under the hood,” but it is much more convenient from an inspection hole or on an overpass.

The video below shows the location of this unit. What function does this product perform and is it possible to do without it? We'll find out more about this later.

Features of operation

The operating principle is very simple. Below is a diagram where the slave cylinder is indicated by a green arrow.

According to this diagram, we can say that the RCS performs an important function, or rather, it activates the fork, which is connected to the clutch drum. The main element of the RCS, or rather the piston, is activated by the resulting fluid pressure coming from the main cylinder through the hose when the clutch pedal is pressed.

The brake fluid pushes the piston, which in turn drives the fork, which acts on the drum, pushing the disc away from the flywheel.

Many people wonder why brake fluid is used in the system? The reason is that brake fluid is incompressible, which is why it is used in such important systems as brakes and clutches.

When to replace the RCS

During the use of the unit, which happens very often, the product tends to fail.

The main causes of breakdowns are chafing and wear of the cuffs, the appearance of cracks in them, which entails the leakage of liquid.

Significant loss of fluid will cause the clutch system to malfunction. It is possible to repair a DCS that has become unusable, but it is easier and more efficient to replace it with a new one.

In order not to wait until the pressure in the clutch pedal disappears, you need to periodically inspect the unit. If there is a leak in the fuel fluid, it is necessary to immediately carry out appropriate repairs on the VAZ-2107. Before carrying out repairs, you need to make sure that this particular element is faulty, since the main circulation system may also fail. The main signs of failure of the RCS are:

decrease in the level of fuel fluid in the tank;
visible leaks of brake fluid from the device body or from under the rubber boot;
“failures” of the clutch pedal, which can be periodic or constant;
difficulty changing gears.

But most often the malfunction is determined by detecting a brake fluid leak.

Features of replacing the RCS

Replacing the VAZ-2107 clutch slave cylinder begins with the need to remove all fluid from the reservoir. Further actions are carried out in order:

First you need to loosen the fastening nut that connects the hose to the cylinder. There is no need to unscrew the nut completely, just loosen it at this stage.
Using pliers, you need to remove the tension spring.
After this, you should unclench the cotter pin and remove it from the tip of the pusher.
Using a key set to “12”, you need to unscrew the two bolts that secure the product to the gearbox housing.
After unscrewing the bolts, you can disconnect the bracket from the cylinder, which is intended to secure the spring.
Holding the working cylinder body, you should dismantle it. During dismantling, pay attention to the pusher, which is located in the fork.
After disconnecting the product from the crankcase, you can continue unscrewing the nut connecting the hose to the device. After unscrewing the nut, brake fluid will begin to flow out of the hose, so you should prepare a special container in advance.

After the device is dismantled, it should be replaced with a new one, since repairing it is irrational. The cost of the product is insignificant, so it is easier to replace it with a new one than to try to carry out repairs.

Installation of the product is carried out in the reverse order of removal. After installation, it is necessary to carry out the system bleeding procedure.

In conclusion, it should be recalled that regular car maintenance helps prevent various unforeseen consequences along the way, such as the “disappearance” of the clutch.

Source: http://provaz07.ru/transmissiya/zamena-rabochego-cilindra-scepleniya-vaz-2107.html

Clutch Slave Cylinder Replacement Guide

There is such an important component in the clutch system of a car that takes on the force coming from the master cylinder. If, while pressing the pedal, you feel that it is “sinking,” this means that the first problems have arisen with the hydraulic drive and, quite possibly, it is necessary to replace the clutch slave cylinder, but other problems may also be a prerequisite for this:

Elementary slipping, which the driver did not specifically plan for (in other words, the clutch did not fully engage).
The clutch usually “pulls away” when it is not completely disengaged (or generally begins to make noise and crackle when the pedal is pressed).
Noticeable vibration when pressed (jokes, jerks, etc.).

If anything listed above occurs, you need to immediately contact a specialist (fortunately, it doesn’t cost that much), or do it yourself, because, as you understand, a lot depends on this system while driving. The occurrence of an emergency situation with a non-functioning or poorly functioning clutch is not uncommon and leads to serious consequences.

First let's upgrade

To verify that the hydraulic drive is faulty, you need to carry out a very simple check, simply pumping and inspecting for the presence of air bubbles in the brake fluid.

To do this, you need to take a hose and connect one end to the screw, and lower the other into some basin (bottle) with brake fluid and press the pedal several times. If after all the pedal presses bubbles still appear, then repair is inevitable. Just first you need to check for possible leaks in the connections of the entire assembly.

Replacing the Clutch Slave Cylinder (Step by Step Guide)

Being installed on the clutch housing, the cylinder is not so easily accessible, which means you will have to drive the car onto a lift or onto an inspection platform (pit), where everything is much more convenient.

For work, prepare a set of wrenches and ordinary pliers (round nose pliers or pliers are fine). For repairs you will also need a vice.

If you are not going to repair it (this is somewhat troublesome), but bought it ready-made and fully assembled, then replacement is not so difficult.

Loosen the hydraulic hose on the cylinder.
Remove and then remove the tension spring from the fork.
The cotter pin must be removed from the cylinder pusher.
Unscrew all the cylinder fasteners (connection to the crankcase).
Pull out the bracket.
Remove the cylinder pusher from the release fork.
Disconnect the hose from the cylinder by unscrewing them in different directions with both hands (to avoid scrolling). Just don't sow the sealing washer.
Take some kind of container and drain there all the brake fluid that was in the hydraulic drive and in the cylinder.
Finally, install a new one in place of the “dead” cylinder.
Reassemble strictly and precisely in the reverse order. All!

Tips and tricks

After reassembly, it is necessary to pump the clutch again to ensure that the connections are tight and there are no leaks.

When operating the car, you should not play around with the clutch, constantly holding the pedal, for example, or sharply jerking it with your foot. This way you will only reduce the durability of this unit and again turn to repair or replacement.

Source: http://NashiKolesa.ru/pod-kapotom/rukovodstvo-po-zamene-rabochego-cilindra-scepleniya

Replacing the clutch slave cylinder

What is a clutch slave cylinder and how does it work?

This is what the RCS looks like:

In general, in classic Lada models, in particular on the VAZ 2107, there are two clutch cylinders, a worker and a main one. They perform almost the same function after pressing the clutch pedal (see.

Where is the clutch slave cylinder located?

The RCS is attached to the clutch housing of the box using two bolts, see photo.

When is it necessary to replace the clutch slave cylinder?

Like any other car part, the brake control system wears out over time: the boot breaks (see photo), and brake fluid begins to leak.

A sign of a broken working cylinder may be light movement of the clutch pedal due to a leaky system. By the way, this symptom may also indicate a failure of the master brake cylinder.

How to replace the clutch slave cylinder of a VAZ 2107: step-by-step instructions

Tools:

set of wrenches,
pliers,
brake fluid.

Sequencing:

Using a 17mm open-end wrench, loosen the hose fitting.

Remove the release spring from the fork.

Using pliers, remove the cotter pin from the clutch slave cylinder pusher hole.

Using a 13mm socket wrench, unscrew the two bolts securing the control center to the crankcase and disconnect the bracket with the tension spring fastening.

After removing the pusher from the hole, remove the clutch slave cylinder.

Use a 17-mm open-end wrench to secure the tip of the brake hose, after which the control center can be unscrewed by hand. Important: before this procedure, prepare a container to drain the brake fluid from the hose and cylinder.

Tip: There is an O-ring at the connection between the clutch slave cylinder and the hose tip, be careful not to lose it.

Install the new DCS in the reverse order. After installing the cylinder, fill in the brake fluid and bleed the clutch.

Video

I recommend reading:

autoepoch.ru

Replacing the clutch slave cylinder on a VAZ 2101-VAZ 2107

Welcome! Clutch slave cylinder - not all people know what it is, but you still have to replace it from time to time, but how can you replace it if not everyone knows what it is? In short.

In the car we are currently considering a classic, there are two clutch cylinders, one of which is the main one and the other is the worker.

They perform almost the same function; when you press the clutch pedal, the piston (Indicated by a green arrow) which is located inside the clutch master cylinder moves and thereby pushes the brake fluid further.

At this time, the brake fluid continues its path and thereby rests against the same piston (Indicated by a blue arrow), only which is already located in the clutch working cylinder, and after the brake fluid rests, it begins to push the piston and therefore it moves to the front and there, by pressing the fork, the clutch in the car disengages.

In general, we understand that there must always be brake fluid in both cylinders, but why is it needed, some of you may ask? The thing is that brake fluid is not compressible, and therefore it is used both in the brake system and in the clutch drive, in general, let's get back closer to the topic.

Note! To replace the clutch slave cylinder with a new one, you will need to stock up on: A basic set of wrenches, as well as pliers, and you may also need about 1 or 2 liters of new brake fluid!

Summary:

Replacing the working cylinder
Additional video clip

Where is the clutch slave cylinder located? It is located next to the box, and to be more precise, it is secured with two bolts on the clutch housing itself, so you will only be able to see it unobstructed if you are under the bottom of the car, or if you look deep into the engine compartment, For more details on its location, see the photo below, it is indicated by an arrow:

When should you replace the clutch slave cylinder? As we already understood, inside the working cylinder there is brake fluid due to which the clutch is disengaged in the car, but it happens that over time this cylinder becomes unusable and cracks begin to appear in its body and thereby the liquid that is in it gradually begins to come out of it be, it is very easy to understand if you visually look at it, and it can also be understood without looking at it at all, but how to do this you ask?

The thing is that if the cylinder becomes unusable and brake fluid begins to come out of it, then the first thing that will happen to the clutch pedal is that it will become very easy to press, that is, the system will not be airtight, so to speak, and if the system is not is sealed, then the clutch will practically not work, that is, you press the pedal, it is pressed very lightly and the clutch does not engage, this is perhaps one of the most common problems that happens when the clutch slave cylinder fails.

Note! But we must not forget that light engagement of the clutch pedal can also be caused due to other reasons, for example, a leaking clutch master cylinder, which in this case will also need to be replaced! (For information on how to replace the master cylinder and find out what malfunctions require it to be replaced, see the article entitled: “Replacing the clutch master cylinder”)

How to replace the clutch slave cylinder on a VAZ 2101-VAZ 2107?

Removal: 1) To remove, first you will need to stock up on a wrench and, using the wrench, loosen the nut that secures the hose to the cylinder.

Note! Please note that you only need to loosen the tightening of this nut, and not completely unscrew it, and then disconnect the hose from the cylinder, this does not need to be done yet, this is just below!

2) Then put the wrench aside, and then use pliers to pull back and then completely remove the release spring from the cylinder.

3) Next, without removing the pliers, straighten and then remove the cotter pin from the hole located in the tip of the pusher of this cylinder.

Note! The cotter pin is one of those parts that is very often lost, so put it in a visible place so that later you can easily find it and install it back!

4) Next, using a wrench, remove the two bolts that secure the cylinder to the clutch housing of the gearbox.

5) Now disconnect the bracket from the cylinder, which was also bolted together with the cylinder itself and which serves to secure the tension spring.

6) Then, grasping the working cylinder with your hand, carefully remove it, while removing the pusher, which is indicated by the arrow, from the hole located in the fork.

7) And then completely unscrew the nut that secures the hose to the cylinder, and then completely remove the cylinder from the car.

Note! Before you start unscrewing this nut, prepare some kind of plug or container into which all the brake fluid from the clutch hydraulic hose will drain.

Now that everything is prepared, carefully unscrew the nut that secures the hose and thereby disconnect the hose from the cylinder and then drain all the used brake fluid from the hole in the hose, as well as from the hole in the working cylinder itself!

It would be better, of course, to drain all the fluid from the hose into a container and, after installing the new cylinder, pour completely new brake fluid into the clutch hydraulic drive, because when the fluid is drained, it will thereby flush the entire system from the dirt that is in it! (For information on how to add brake fluid to the clutch reservoir, see the article entitled: “Replacing clutch fluid”)

Installation: 1) Installation of a new clutch cylinder occurs in the reverse order of removal.

Note! After installing the cylinder, be sure to bleed the clutch! (For information on how to bleed the clutch, see the article: “Bleeding the clutch on a VAZ”)

Additional video clip: For more details on the process of replacing this cylinder, you can watch the video clip located just below:

Vaz-Russia.ru

Replacing and adjusting the VAZ-2107 clutch slave cylinder

We remove the clutch slave cylinder for replacement or repair in case of fluid leakage or incomplete disengagement of the clutch

We carry out the work on an inspection ditch or a lift.

1. Disconnect the tension spring.	2. Using pliers, remove the cotter pin from the end of the pusher.
3. Using a 17mm wrench, loosen the fastening of the hose tip in the cylinder plug.	4. Using a 13mm socket, unscrew the two bolts securing the cylinder to the clutch housing.
5. Holding the hose tip with a 17mm wrench and rotating the cylinder by hand, disconnect it from the hose.	To reduce fluid loss, immediately screw a new cylinder onto the hose tip.

Next, install the cylinder in the reverse order of removal and adjust the gap between the pusher and the fork. After installing the new cylinder, we bleed the clutch hydraulic drive system (see Replacing fluid and bleeding the clutch hydraulic drive).

Clutch drive adjustment

Adjusting the clutch drive consists of ensuring clearance between the pusher and the master cylinder piston and between the clutch release bearing and the friction ring of the thrust flange.

The gap between the pusher and the master cylinder piston should be 0.1–0.5 mm, which corresponds to a clutch pedal free play of 0.4–2 mm. This clearance is adjusted by the pedal travel limiting screw.

The gap (2 mm) between the clutch release bearing and the friction ring of the thrust flange is determined by the free play (4–5 mm) of the working cylinder pusher.

1. Press the clutch release fork, resting your finger on the pusher of the working cylinder. The movement of the fork relative to the pusher should be 4–5 mm.	2. In the case when you need to adjust the gap using the “13” and “17” keys, loosen the lock nut...
3. ...and, holding the pusher with an “8” key, we adjust its free play by rotating the adjusting nut.	After all adjustments have been made, the free play of the clutch pedal before the clutch starts disengaging should be 25–35 mm.

avtomechanic.ru

Repair and replacement of the clutch slave cylinder

Vehicles with a manual transmission are equipped with a clutch unit. The smoothness of manual switching between gearbox stages depends on the quality of its work. If this unit or its individual elements, such as the working cylinder, break down, the driver will not be able to drive further. It will be impossible to depress the clutch and change gear.

It is unlikely to be possible to carry out repair work outside your own garage or service station. Therefore, you should not allow the clutch to become completely inoperable.

Clutch operating principle

When the driver presses the clutch pedal, he transfers force to the clutch master cylinder rod. Inside it is hydraulic fluid, which, due to its incompressibility, sends pressure to the working cylinder rod. This element of the system moves the friction discs apart using a fork.

At this moment, the driver can painlessly switch to any gearbox stage. By returning the pedal to the maximum upper position, the reverse process will occur. At the same time, the friction discs return to the closed position.

Often problems with the clutch occur due to the failure of one of the cylinders. If the diagnosis is confirmed, then the clutch slave cylinder or master cylinder is replaced.

Visible malfunction of the working cylinder

This element of the clutch system consists of several simple components. In a metal or plastic case, the rod is located along the axis. To return it to its original position, there is a spring there. The end of the rod interacts with the pusher, which moves the fork.

In addition to the main elements, this hydraulic unit contains cuffs and sealing rings. Significant wear or mechanical deformation of any part can damage the entire system. Then you will need a clutch slave cylinder repair kit.

Clear signs of problems include the following:

The level in the brake fluid reservoir drops sharply. The likely problem is usually hydraulic depressurization and leakage. This happens if the cuff is worn out, or the hose with liquid leading to the cylinder is damaged through and through. During parking, spots or smudges may appear under the cylinder.
The clutch pedal is “soft”, a dip appears when you press the pedal or several dips. You can try to bleed the clutch; if this leads to temporary recovery or everything remains at the same level, then it is worth replacing the slave cylinder. There may be cracks or worn cuffs in its body.
The top point of the pedal goes down for a short time. It is often difficult to switch between stages. The liquid doesn't go anywhere. This is how a broken spring is diagnosed. It will be enough to remove the unit and install the repair kit.

Repair kit for working cylinder

The repair kit includes parts that are subject to the most intense wear: cuffs, spring, rod, etc.

Source: http://autoprivat.ru/remont_avto/zamena_rabochego_cilindra_scepleniya.html